Drybrushing is one of those techniques that looks like pure magic the first time you see it. How is it possible to pick out every muscle, every scratch on a suit of armour, or the texture of a monster's hide with just a few quick strokes? That's exactly what we're going to cover. It's a simple technique that will completely transform your miniatures.
In this guide, we'll walk you through everything you need to know to master drybrushing miniatures, from the essential tools to the tips that help you avoid the most common mistakes.
What is drybrushing and why will it change your miniatures?
The drybrushing technique is one of the cornerstones of miniature painting. It's incredibly easy to pick up, and the results are stunning. It's the perfect method for making the details on a figure literally jump out, creating contrast and volume almost instantly.
A fast way to add highlights
At its core, drybrushing is a quick highlighting technique. Rather than painting each highlight individually, you apply colour selectively to only the raised areas of the miniature. Picture shining a strong torch directly at your figure: the light would only catch the ridges and edges, leaving the recesses in shadow. Drybrushing replicates exactly that effect.
The trick is to load your brush with paint and then wipe almost all of it off on a piece of kitchen paper. When the brush looks like it has barely any paint left, you drag it quickly across the surface of the mini. The tiny amount of pigment remaining deposits itself only on the raised details.
The result is instant contrast that defines the shape of the piece without having to wrestle with complex blending. That's why it works brilliantly on figures printed in 3D resin, which capture even the finest detail.
The secret to drybrushing: The magic isn't so much in how you move the brush — it's in how much paint you remove first. Success is 90% about wiping off the right amount of paint before you touch the miniature. The golden rule: less is more.
When should you use drybrushing?
Although it's incredibly versatile, there are situations where drybrushing simply has no equal. It's your best friend for:
- Highlighting textures: It's unbeatable for painting highly textured surfaces like fur, chainmail, wood, rocks, or dragon scales. It makes every fibre and every link pop in seconds!
- Creating weathering effects: Want to simulate scratches, rust, or chipped paint on armour and vehicles? This is your technique. It adds that touch of realism and "this mini has seen battle" look that always turns out great.
- Quick highlighting for armies: If you have a mountain of miniatures to paint (shoutout to all the wargamers out there), drybrushing lets you achieve a more than decent finish in a fraction of the time other techniques would take.
- Edge Highlighting: By dragging the brush nearly parallel (a 45-degree angle works best) along the sharp edges of armour or a weapon, you create clean, defined light lines with almost no effort.
Whether you're just starting out and looking for results that keep you motivated from day one, or you're already an experienced painter, the drybrushing brush for miniatures is a tool you need in your arsenal. It's the ideal way to bring out the incredible level of detail that high-definition resin is capable of capturing.
Key tools for expert-level drybrushing
Getting a drybrushing finish that leaves everyone speechless doesn't require an expensive arsenal, but you do need the right tools on hand. Let's take a look at which brushes, paints, and accessories will become your best allies for mastering this technique.
The ideal brush for drybrushing
Here's the heart of the matter. Brush selection is, without a doubt, the most decisive factor. The drybrushing technique for miniatures is genuinely rough on bristles, since it involves scrubbing them over and over against textured surfaces. So forget about using your delicate Kolinsky sable brushes for this — that would be sacrilege. 💀
What you're looking for is a brush that can take a beating, ideally with these characteristics:
- Durable bristles: Synthetic brushes are your best friends here. They handle the friction like champions, last longer, and don't lose their shape as easily.
- Round or domed shape: Dedicated drybrushing brushes have that dome-shaped head — and it's no coincidence. This shape helps paint apply smoothly and evenly over raised surfaces, preventing those dreaded streaks.
- Good density: A nice, full brush is key. It lets you load and offload pigment with far more control, which translates into a finer, more blended finish.
And no, you don't need to break the bank. Brands like Artis Opus are the crème de la crème, but there are far more affordable options that deliver fantastic results. In fact, a veteran's trick is to repurpose old, slightly splayed brushes — their "worn-out" condition actually makes them perfect for the job.
The best paints for a flawless finish
While you could technically use almost any paint, if you want results that really make a difference, your choice matters. Acrylic paints are the undisputed kings of drybrushing. They dry quickly and their water-based formula makes them incredibly easy to work with.
Ideally, you want paints with a high pigment load and a consistency that's neither too thick nor too watery. Ranges like Vallejo Game Color or Citadel Base are safe bets. Their pigmentation is so good that even with the tiniest amount of paint, colour transfers beautifully onto raised surfaces.
Watch out for very fluid paints! 👁️ Steer clear of inks or washes for this technique. They're way too runny and will seep into every nook and cranny — the exact opposite of what you want. With drybrushing, the paint only goes where you want it: on the surface.
The success of the technique depends on the interaction between the brush, the paint, and the surface where you offload. The key, as you can see, lies in that intermediate step: it's on the palette where you calibrate the exact amount of pigment so you don't ruin your work.
The palette: the secret weapon of drybrushing
This is where most beginners go wrong. Loading and — more importantly — properly unloading your brush is 90% of the technique's success. You can have the best brush in the world, but if you don't remove the excess paint correctly, the result will be a mess.
- Paper towel: The most common and convenient option. It works, but there's a catch: it can leave small fibres in the bristles that end up on your miniature. A real pain.
- A piece of cardboard or a tile: A DIY solution that works really well. These surfaces don't shed fibres. An old ceramic tile is great for "scrubbing" the brush and giving you total control.
- Texture palettes: If you want to take it to the next level, this is the professional solution. These palettes are purpose-built for drybrushing, with rough surfaces that help remove paint in a controlled way. It's a small investment that makes a noticeable difference.
If you want to dive deeper into brushes and tools, check out our guide on the best brushes for painting miniatures, where we share even more tips. With the right tools and a little practice, you'll take your figures to a whole new level.
Drybrushing step by step
Now that you've got your tools ready, let's get our hands dirty. Forget the dry theory — this is more about feel than force. I'll walk you through the process so your drybrushing on miniatures looks great from the very first attempt. Trust me, it's far more intuitive than it sounds.
The key to success, as you'll see, comes down to prepping your figure properly, mastering the art of loading and unloading the brush, and then executing the stroke with confidence. Let's break down each part so you're left with zero doubts.
Step 1: Preparation is half the battle
Before you touch a drop of paint, your miniature needs to be ready to go. This step is the foundation of everything — skip it, and you risk a flat, lifeless result.
First up: priming. Always, always apply a good primer coat. Not only does it help the paint adhere properly, but it also unifies the entire surface. For drybrushing, the ideal base is a black or very dark primer (a dark grey, a chocolate brown...).
On top of that, apply a base coat to the areas where you'll be using the technique. This colour should be dark, as it will be the tone that stays in the shadows and recesses. Think of it as the dark canvas that the highlights from drybrushing will pop against.
For example, for chainmail, a black base or a very dark metallic like Gunmetal Grey works perfectly. If you're painting the scaly skin of a beast, a dark green or brown is a great starting point.
Step 2: The Loading and Unloading Ritual
This is where it all comes together — the difference between a professional finish and a streaky mess. I'm not exaggerating when I say that 99% of a successful dry brush comes down to how much paint you leave on the brush.
Dip just the tip of the brush into the paint. You don't need to submerge the whole thing — a light load on the bristles is more than enough. Now grab your wiping surface (a piece of cardboard, a ceramic tile, or a textured palette if you have one) and start working the brush back and forth.
The goal is to remove almost all the paint. At first, the brush will lay down a solid stroke of color. Keep wiping. You'll notice the mark getting fainter and fainter until it leaves only a dusty whisper of pigment. That's your sweet spot. When you think "there's nothing left on this brush," that's exactly when it's ready.
A foolproof trick: before touching your miniature, do a test stroke on the back of your hand or a piece of paper. If it leaves a defined line of color, there's still too much paint. If it leaves just a subtle haze, you're good to go. 👍
Step 3: The Execution — The Master Stroke
With your brush perfectly loaded (or rather, unloaded), it's time to paint. The magic lies in how you move the brush across the miniature.
Your strokes should be quick, light, and always sweeping perpendicular to the details you want to highlight. Think of it as "skimming" the surface of the figure with the brush.
- On chainmail: if the rings run in horizontal lines, move the brush up and down.
- For animal fur: follow the natural direction of the hair. This gives a far more realistic result.
- On armor with sharp edges: drag the brush almost sideways at roughly 45 degrees, so only the raised edges catch the pigment.
Most importantly: don't press down. Pressure should be minimal. Multiple light passes will always beat a single heavy-handed stroke, which can leave a rough finish or even damage the paint underneath.
Pro Tip: Layering and Variations for Expert Results
Dry brushing doesn't stop at a single highlight layer. To take your figures to the next level — especially when working with highly detailed Anycubic resin prints — you can experiment with a few key variations.
- Layered dry brushing: Start with a color slightly lighter than your base coat for a broad first pass. Then pick an even lighter tone and repeat, this time focusing only on the most prominent areas. Finish with an almost-white touch on the highest points to create a striking color transition.
- Overbrushing: A hybrid between a base coat and a dry brush. Done with a slightly more loaded brush than usual, it produces a softer transition — ideal for large surfaces with less texture, like cloth or skin.
- Stippling: Who says dry brushing is only for raised detail? To create texture on flat surfaces — rust, grime, weathering — load the brush a little more than usual and, instead of sweeping, dab it on in small taps. The effect is incredibly realistic.
Common Dry Brushing Mistakes and How to Fix Them
Drybrushing is a fantastic technique, but let's be honest: we've all been through that frustrating phase at the beginning. You see those stunning results online, and when you try it yourself, your miniature looks like it lost a fight with a bag of flour. Don't panic! Those mistakes are part of the learning process and, luckily, they have simple fixes.
The idea is to dive in and experiment without fear of getting it wrong. Let's look at the most common pitfalls so you know how to avoid them or fix them when they happen.
The dreaded chalky or powdery finish
This is, without question, the number one beginner mistake. You drybrush your figure and, instead of an elegant highlight, you're left with a flat, almost powdery finish that looks like it'll blow away with a breath. Classic chalk effect.
This happens when your brush is too dry. When you wipe off the paint on a highly absorbent paper towel, it doesn't just remove the excess paint — it also strips out the binder (the "glue" that holds the pigment together). The result is pure, dry pigment on your miniature with nothing to lock it in place.
The fix is a simple habit change:
- Ditch the absorbent paper towel: A piece of cardboard, an old tile, or a texture palette works much better. These surfaces won't "steal" the binder from your brush.
- Slightly dampen your brush: Before loading paint, just barely moisten the bristles. A quick touch on a damp sponge is more than enough.
Already happened to you? Don't bin the mini! A chalky finish is an easy fix. Apply a very thin coat of satin or gloss varnish. This will rehydrate the pigment and bring the colour back to life.
Scratches and visible brushstrokes
Another classic. Instead of a smooth transition, your miniature is covered in streaks and scratches. This usually comes down to two things: either you're pressing too hard or you're using the wrong brush. Remember, drybrushing miniatures is a gentle stroke, not a scrubbing motion.
The key to avoiding this is patience and a light touch. Five quick, gentle passes will always beat one heavy-handed stroke. If the problem persists, take a look at your brush. A fuller brush with a rounded tip will help you blend the colour much more smoothly.
Getting paint into the recesses that should stay dark
This is the exact opposite of what we're going for. If you're painting over the shadows, the cause is straightforward: your brush still had too much paint on it.
It's the impatient painter's mistake. The solution is to be more methodical when offloading:
- Keep wiping: When you think there's nothing left on the brush, wipe a little more on your palette or cardboard.
- Do a test stroke: Before touching the miniature, drag the brush across the back of your thumb. If it leaves a solid, opaque mark, keep offloading.
Proper tool maintenance goes a long way towards avoiding many of these issues. If you want to take things further, check out our guide on how to clean your acrylic paint brushes to keep them in top shape for years to come.
Drybrushing tips for resin and FDM 3D printed miniatures
Painting a 3D printed figure is a different experience from painting a traditional injection-moulded plastic miniature. Drybrushing really shines in the world of 3D printing, but you need to know how to adapt the technique to each material.
Highlighting Details on Resin Miniatures
Resin miniatures are incredible for their level of detail. Materials like Elegoo or Anycubic 3D resins capture tiny textures that are the perfect playground for a good dry brush technique.
Because resin surfaces are so smooth, contrast is your best weapon.
- Dark primer, always: Start with a black primer or very dark grey to create a foundation of deep shadows.
- Thin layers, take your time: Apply dry brushing with very light strokes and build up the effect over several layers, gradually working up to lighter tones.
- Varnish, the finishing touch: Once you're done, a coat of varnish (matte or satin) will unify the finish and protect your paintwork.
One innovation that's been generating a lot of buzz is texture palettes for dry brushing. If you want to take a closer look, you can find out more about these textured palettes here.
Disguising Layer Lines on FDM Prints
Filament prints (FDM) have one clear enemy: layer lines. The good news is that dry brushing is a fantastic tool for camouflaging them.
The trick with FDM is to use dry brushing to create a "surface texture" that tricks the eye, pushing layer lines into the background.
To achieve this, the strategy is a little different:
- Filler primer: Use a spray filler primer to smooth out layer lines before painting.
- Strategic brush strokes: When dry brushing, work with strokes perpendicular to the layer lines. This breaks up their visual repetition.
- A little stippling: On large, flat surfaces, combine dry brushing with light stippling to add irregular texture.
Getting your paint application right is the foundation of everything. That's why we recommend checking out our article on how to use Vallejo Game Color to paint resin prints, where you'll find plenty of tips that will come in really handy.
FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions About Dry Brushing
It's completely normal to have a ton of questions when you're starting out with a new technique. Here we've compiled the most common questions about dry brushing miniatures. Let's get them answered!
Does any type of paint work?
The best paint for dry brushing is an acrylic with body and high pigmentation, such as those from the Vallejo Game Color range or Citadel Base. Avoid very liquid paints like inks or washes, as they will run into the recesses and ruin the effect.
How do I look after my brushes so they don't get ruined?
Dry brushing is tough on bristles. To extend their lifespan, clean them immediately after use with warm water and a brush-specific soap. Work the soap thoroughly into the base of the bristles and always dry them horizontally or bristle-side down. Using a brush conditioner occasionally also helps keep them flexible.
In what order do I apply dry brushing alongside other techniques?
The ideal order for a professional finish is essential. The sequence that never fails is:
- Base Coat: Your main colour layer.
- Wash or Ink: To create shadows in the recesses. Allow to dry completely.
- Dry Brush: To highlight raised edges and textures.
- Glazes: (Optional) To adjust colours or smooth transitions.
Conclusion: Get That Brush Moving!
You now have one of the most rewarding and effective techniques in the hobby firmly in your toolkit. Dry brushing miniatures is a brutally simple method that, as you've seen, delivers spectacular results for very little effort.
The golden rule: If you take one thing away from this, make it this: wipe off the paint. When you think the brush is dry enough, wipe it a little more. That one habit accounts for 90% of your success. Less is more!
Theory will only get you so far — the real learning happens when you get your hands dirty. Grab a test mini and start experimenting.
Everything you need is waiting in our store. At Mr Resin you'll find dedicated dry brushes, specialist paints, and the best 3D printer resins to print your next masterpiece.
Stay in the loop: join our community on Telegram for the latest discounts, coupons, and new arrivals. And for exclusive deals, subscribe to our newsletter!
✨ Happy Printing! 🚀