The drybrushing technique for miniatures is one of those secret weapons every painter — beginner or veteran — should have in their arsenal. It's an incredibly effective method that involves using a brush with the tiniest amount of paint to bring out every highlight and texture on a figure. 🤩
It's one of the fastest and most effective ways to add depth and realism to your work, and it's perfect for everything from your first Space Marines to that dragon that's been staring at you from the shelf for months.
🤔 What is drybrushing and why will it transform your miniatures
If you've ever looked at a miniature and wondered how on earth they made the rivets on a suit of armor, an orc's skin, or a beast's fur look so real and three-dimensional, chances are the drybrushing technique is the answer. 🎨
Far from being some arcane magic trick, it's an incredibly intuitive and fast approach that brings out volume and texture with almost no effort. In this guide, we're going to break the technique down completely, so you can see why it's become an essential skill — whether you play Warhammer or you've just printed your first hero with a resin for 3D printing.
The magic is in the simplicity
The concept couldn't be more straightforward: you load your brush with paint and then wipe off almost all of the pigment on a paper towel or textured palette. Your brush — now nearly dry — will only deposit a faint trace of color on the raised areas of the miniature as you lightly sweep it across the surface.
With this one simple motion, you create highlights and reflections almost automatically. It's an ideal technique for:
- ✨ Enhancing complex textures: Fur, stone, chainmail, worn metals — anything with surface detail will instantly pop.
- ⏱️ Speeding up your painting: You'll achieve stunning results in a fraction of the time it would take to manually edge highlight every surface by hand.
- 💸 Making your paint go further: Because you're using so little product, your pots will last an incredibly long time.
In short, drybrushing is like cheating — but the good kind. It lets you achieve a level of detail that would otherwise take hours of painstaking work. It's the finishing touch that separates a decent mini from one that makes people stop and stare.
Much more than a beginner's technique
While drybrushing has a reputation for being easy to pick up, the drybrushing technique for miniatures has a surprising amount of depth to it. More experienced painters use it in incredibly creative ways — combining it with washes, glazes, and other methods to achieve effects like rust, weathering, or even to simulate zenithal lighting (light coming from directly above).
You'll quickly discover that this method doesn't just save you time and money — it takes the quality of your projects to a whole new level. It transforms flat, lifeless surfaces into pieces with real character, making every detail of your resin print count. Get ready, because the way you paint is about to change. 😉
💪 The ultimate dry brushing toolkit
To truly master dry brushing miniatures, you don't need to break the bank. That said, the difference between a finish that stops people in their tracks and one that's just "okay" usually comes down to the tools you choose. 🖌️
The good news? Building your kit is simpler and more affordable than you might think. Let's cover the essentials so you can start pulling out textures and highlights like you've been doing it for years.
Brushes: your main weapons
The brush is the star of the show here. For dry brushing you need something that can take a beating — firm bristles that won't give up after a few strokes.
- Dedicated dry brushes: Brands like Artis Opus and Vallejo make ranges built specifically for this. They're fantastic — stiff bristles, flat or rounded tips, and a shorter handle for better control. If you're serious about the hobby, these are an investment that will pay for itself many times over.
- Makeup brushes: Yes, really! 💅 Those eyeshadow brushes are a veteran painter's secret weapon. They're cheap, dense, and soft enough to blend incredibly subtle transitions. A brilliant alternative.
- Old, worn-out brushes: Got some detail brushes lying around that have splayed beyond saving? Don't throw them away! They're perfect for a second life as dry brushing tools, especially for small areas and tight recesses.
If you want to dive deeper into this topic, check out our full breakdown of the best brushes for painting miniatures.
Paint: the fuel behind the technique
Almost any acrylic paint will get you started, but if you want real results, you need something with a good consistency and strong pigment coverage.
Ranges like Vallejo Game Color and Model Color are ideal for this. They have a creamy texture that grips the brush without running — which is exactly what you want to stop paint sneaking into areas it shouldn't and ruining the effect. Steer clear of thin, watery paints like inks or washes; they simply don't work here.
The secret weapon: your loading surface
This is where a lot of beginners go wrong. The loading surface is whatever you use to remove excess paint from your brush before it touches the miniature. This step is CRUCIAL to getting your brush truly dry.
Your goal is to remove between 90% and 95% of the paint. When you think you've removed enough, take off a little more. When in doubt, err on the side of caution.
Don't overthink it — almost anything will do:
- A piece of kitchen paper towel.
- Cardboard from any old box.
- A spare ceramic tile.
- Textured palette pads, which are inexpensive and highly effective.
With these three tools — a good brush, the right paint, and something to offload onto — you have everything you need to start working some real magic.
✍️ How to dry brush miniatures: step by step
Let's get into it! 🚀 This is where the fun begins. Forget lengthy manuals and get ready to nail the dry brushing technique for miniatures starting right now. This is all about hands-on practice, no fluff.
The beauty of this method isn't in its complexity — it's in setting the groundwork properly and getting a feel for a couple of key motions. With a bit of practice, you'll be amazed at how much life your figures suddenly have.
Preparing your miniature is everything
Before your brush even touches the model, you need a solid canvas to work on. This comes down to two simple but essential steps: a proper primer coat and a strong base coat.
Priming is non-negotiable. It's what makes the paint bond properly to resin or plastic, stopping it from peeling or cracking over time. Right after that, apply a base coat in a dark, even colour. Think chocolate browns, blacks, or deep blues.
Why dark? Because drybrushing is a highlighting technique. Starting from a dark base creates brutal contrast that makes every single detail pop. That's the secret to achieving that dramatic, eye-catching depth!
The brush dance: loading and unloading
This is the moment of truth — the step that separates a professional finish from a complete mess. The trick isn't how much paint you pick up; it's how much you remove. Counterintuitive, but that's how it works.
The process is mechanical and boils down to three movements you need to make second nature.
As you can see in the diagram, it all comes down to load, unload, and apply. Burn this into your muscle memory and you'll save yourself a lot of frustration and muddy, overloaded results.
Work through these steps carefully:
- Load the brush: Dip just the very tip of the bristles into the paint. There's no need to soak the brush — just a light touch.
- Unload the excess: Now wipe the brush firmly across your unloading surface (a piece of kitchen paper, an old palette, a piece of cardboard…). Work it back and forth as if you're cleaning it thoroughly.
- Check it: When you think there's no paint left, swipe the brush across the back of your hand. Does it leave a clear, defined smear of colour? There's still too much. Does it leave just the faintest whisper of pigment, barely visible? Perfect — you're ready to go!
By far the most common mistake is not unloading enough. The golden rule is: if you have even the slightest doubt, wipe off a little more. It's far better to build up several light passes than to ruin all that surface detail with one stroke that's too heavily loaded.
The final move: applying paint to the model
With your brush loaded just right, it's time to apply it. And here, the way you move it is absolutely everything.
Forget the idea of "painting" as you normally would. Instead, use quick, feather-light strokes, as if you're brushing dust off the surface. The direction of your stroke matters — a lot: try to work against the texture to "catch" the raised details. On chainmail, for example, move the brush in small circles or side to side. On a cloak or robe, work top to bottom to simulate how natural light would fall across it.
Keep the pressure minimal. Almost nothing. Let the bristles just graze the highest raised areas. You'll see the pigment depositing only on the edges and elevated surfaces, building light and volume in an almost magical way.
An interesting fact: according to master painter Mig Jiménez, 82% of painters say this technique cuts their working time by 60%, and most beginners get a solid handle on it in under 20 hours of practice. If you want to check out the specific brushes they use, take a look at the Mig Jiménez website.
If you paint with the Vallejo Game Color range, our guide on how to use Vallejo Game Color to paint resin prints is a must-read — it's packed with specific tips to help you get the most out of the range.
❌ Drybrushing Mistakes Everyone Makes (And How to Fix Them)
You're powering through your first drybrush layer, everything seems to be going well, and then… disaster strikes. 😱 Your miniature looks chalky, you've buried exactly the details you wanted to highlight, or worse, the finish looks like a smear of chalk dust. Don't panic — these are the most common beginner mistakes, and thankfully, they're all easy to fix.
We've all been there. So let's tackle these frustrating problems head-on and go through the tips that'll keep them from happening again.
The Dreaded Chalky or Dusty Effect
This is, without a doubt, the number one drybrushing mistake. You put in all that effort to highlight the raised details on your model, but all you end up with is a pale, dusty finish that looks dirty and undefined.
The cause is almost always the same: the paint is drying too quickly on the bristles, right before it touches the miniature. This turns the pigment into a fine powder that sticks on unevenly.
To avoid this, try the following:
- 💧 Use a drying retarder: A single drop of retarder medium in your paint is a complete game-changer. It keeps the paint workable just long enough to transfer smoothly onto the surface.
- 🏃♂️ Work at a quicker pace: Don't leave a loaded brush sitting around while you figure out your next move. Load, wipe, apply. Keep it flowing.
- 🧐 Check your paint: Sometimes very old or low-quality paints separate and leave this effect. Give the pot a thorough shake before you start.
Too Much Paint! I've Buried All the Detail
Another classic blunder. In the heat of the moment, you press too hard or leave too much paint on the brush. Suddenly, all those recesses and shadows that gave your mini its depth disappear under a flat layer of color. There goes your volume.
The problem here isn't the technique — it's impatience. Remember, drybrushing is about building up highlights layer by layer, not illuminating everything in a single stroke.
If you've already made a mess of it, don't stress. You can fix it by carefully applying a dark wash over the affected area. This will bring the shadows back and help you recover the definition you lost.
To prevent it in the future, burn this mantra into your brain: wipe, wipe, and wipe again. When you think there's no paint left on the brush, take a little more off. It's always, always better to build up with three light passes than to overload it in one go.
My Brush Is Leaving Ugly Streaks and Scratches
If your miniature looks like it's had a run-in with a cat instead of showing a smooth light transition, the brush is usually to blame. Those bristle marks and coarse streaks appear for two main reasons.
The first is that you're using a brush with bristles that are too stiff or in poor condition. An old, splayed, and frayed brush will gouge the surface instead of depositing pigment. The second is that you're applying too much pressure. Drybrushing should be a gentle sweep across the surface — a light, delicate stroke, not a vigorous scrub.
The solution is straightforward: use brushes specifically designed for drybrushing — ideally round with soft but dense bristles. Apply the paint using light, quick strokes. Let the bristles do the work for you, and don't forget to clean them thoroughly after every session to make them last!
🚀 Take Your Drybrushing to the Next Level
Once you've got the hang of loading, unloading, and applying, the drybrushing technique for miniatures becomes a seriously powerful creative tool. It's time to stop thinking of it as just a way to highlight edges and start seeing it as a way to tell stories through your figures. Let's dive in!
This is where artistry goes beyond technique. It's no longer just about applying a lighter colour over a darker one — it's about playing with textures, effects, and combinations to bring your minis to life.
Overbrushing
Think of your standard drybrushing, but with a little more paint and applied slightly more generously. Overbrushing is a perfect variation for creating smoother colour transitions across larger surfaces — like cloaks, monster skin, or tank armour plating.
It's not as heavy as a standard coat of paint, but it covers far more than traditional drybrushing. With this technique, you can build up colour gradients incredibly quickly, giving a much more natural and organic sense of volume.
Combining Drybrushing with Other Techniques
Drybrushing doesn't have to work alone. In fact, its real power is unleashed when you pair it with other methods to achieve complex effects in record time.
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Drybrushing + Washes: This is the winning combination — a classic for good reason. First, apply your drybrush to bring out the highlights. Then wash the entire area with a dark wash. The ink will settle into the recesses, creating deep shadows, while the drybrushing keeps the raised details illuminated. Instant contrast, and it looks fantastic!
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Drybrushing + Edge Highlighting: Use drybrushing to lay down a first level of light across an entire armour piece. Then, with a detail brush, edge highlight only the most extreme raised edges using a near-white colour. The result is a clean, defined finish with a very professional look.
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Drybrushing + Pigments: Want to simulate dry mud or accumulated dust? Run a drybrush loaded with an earthy colour over boots or the undercarriage of a vehicle. Then fix pigments of the same tone into the recesses for an ultra-realistic finish.
The key to all of this is not being afraid to experiment. Try using unexpected colours for your drybrushing: an ice blue drybrush over black armour can simulate a metallic sheen; a dark orange over metal can be the starting point for a spectacular rust effect.
Experimenting with these variations will help you develop your own style. Don't hesitate to pick up a quality set of dedicated drybrushing brushes like those from Vallejo to give yourself versatile tools that let you try everything. The only limit, as always, is your imagination.
Conclusion:
By now, you've probably realized that drybrushing miniatures is so much more than just wiping a nearly-dry brush across a surface. It's a technique that delivers stunning results quickly and easily — perfect for bringing your freshly printed figures to life. ✅
You now have everything you need to make the details on your creations pop, build realistic textures, and leave everyone at the gaming table speechless.
We encourage you to dive in and give it a go. If you need anything, head over to the Mr Resin store and check out our range of paints, brushes, and — of course — the best selection of 3D printing resins on the market.
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✨ Happy Printing! 🚀
🤔 The Most Common Questions About Drybrushing
Here we'll answer those questions that always come up when you first get into drybrushing miniatures. Straightforward, no-nonsense answers so nothing holds you back.
Can I use any acrylic paint for drybrushing?
In theory you might think so, but in practice — not really. The paints that work best are those with a thicker consistency and a high pigment load, like the Vallejo Game Color or Model Color ranges.
If you use a very fluid paint, instead of catching the raised edges, it'll seep into every crevice and you'll end up with a blotchy mess. Trust me, that's one of the first lessons people learn.
What's the real difference between a regular brush and a dedicated drybrush?
The difference is night and day. Brushes designed for drybrushing have shorter, stiffer bristles with a flat or rounded tip. They're built to withstand the scrubbing motion against the surface and deposit pigment in a far more controlled and subtle way.
If you try to use a good detail brush — one of those fine, delicate-haired ones — there's a very good chance you'll ruin it in your very first session. Use the right tool for the job.
How do I look after my drybushes so they last?
It all comes down to cleaning, especially because paint dries incredibly fast in those bristles. Ideally, use a brush cleaner or artist's soap straight after each use. Make sure you thoroughly remove any paint that builds up at the base of the bristles, right next to the ferrule.
If you let paint dry there, the bristles will splay out and the brush will lose all its usefulness. Every so often, a little brush conditioner will bring them back to life.
Do I need to varnish my miniature after drybrushing?
Absolutely! ✅ The layer of pigment left by drybrushing is quite thin and can be a little fragile, especially if you're using your minis for gaming.
A coat of varnish — whether matte or satin — will not only protect your work from wear and handling, but it'll also unify the overall finish of the miniature. It gives everything that more polished, professional look.