PLA+ vs PLA: Real Differences and When to Choose Each | Mr Resin

The main difference between PLA and PLA+ is that PLA+ is an upgraded version of standard PLA filament, enhanced with additives that improve its strength, flexibility, and surface finish. While standard PLA is perfect for decorative prints thanks to its ease of use and low cost, PLA+ filament is the go-to choice for functional parts that need to handle real-world stress.

In my experience, the decision is straightforward: if the part is just going to sit on a shelf, regular PLA is fine. But if it actually needs to do something — like bear a load or snap-fit into place — PLA+ is your best bet.

What exactly is PLA+ filament?

PLA+ is an advanced formulation of standard PLA, engineered to overcome its mechanical limitations. In simple terms, manufacturers take the base recipe of PLA (polylactic acid) and blend in a proprietary mix of additives — typically polymers like TPU or impact modifiers — that give it greater strength, toughness, and flexibility.

Think of it like the difference between a standard car and its "Sport" trim. They look similar from the outside, but under the hood, PLA+ has upgrades that allow it to take a lot more punishment. I've seen it time and again in the workshop: a part printed in regular PLA snaps cleanly when you try to flex it, while the same part in PLA+ will bend slightly before giving way. That small difference is critical for functional prints.

What are the real differences between PLA and PLA+?

The most noticeable differences are higher impact resistance, greater flexibility, and a cleaner surface finish. Where standard PLA is rigid and brittle, PLA+ is tougher — meaning it absorbs impacts and stress far better without fracturing straight away.

Day to day, this translates into parts that last significantly longer. On top of that, PLA+ typically has a more satin or matte finish, which helps hide layer lines and gives your prints a more professional look straight off the bed. Less sanding for me! 😉

When Is It Actually Worth Paying More for PLA+?

PLA+ is worth the extra cost when the part you're printing serves a mechanical purpose, will be put under stress, or needs a clean finish without post-processing. For purely decorative pieces that won't see much handling, standard PLA is still a fantastic — and more budget-friendly — choice.

I've printed hinges, brackets, and enclosures for my electronics projects using both materials. Standard PLA parts often fail at the first screw tightening or after moderate use. PLA+ parts, on the other hand, hold up like champions.

Based on my experience, here are the situations where I reach for PLA+ without hesitation:

• Functional parts: Tool holders, gears, drone enclosures, hinges... anything that needs to handle stress and load.
• Fit and assembly prototypes: When you need to test how multiple parts fit together (press-fit connections), PLA+'s extra strength prevents breakage during testing.
• Wargaming miniatures: The more matte surface is an ideal base for primers, and the added toughness protects against accidental drops.
• Long, complex prints: Quality PLA+ typically has more consistent diameter, which significantly reduces the risk of clogs during multi-hour prints.

Do I need to change my print settings for PLA+?

Yes, but only slightly. To print with PLA+ you generally just need to increase your nozzle temperature by 10 to 15 °C compared to what you use for standard PLA. There's no need to recalibrate your entire printer.

This small temperature increase is key to allowing the additives to flow properly and achieve optimal layer bonding — which is where PLA+ gets most of its extra strength from.

Here are the settings I typically adjust:

• Nozzle temperature: If you print PLA at 200 °C, start PLA+ at 210–215 °C.
• Bed temperature: Generally no change needed. Around 50–60 °C works perfectly.
• Retraction: PLA+ is slightly more fluid, which can cause more stringing. If this happens, try increasing your retraction distance or speed slightly.
• Print speed: Once you've dialed in the temperature, many PLA+ filaments actually let you print even faster than standard PLA.

My top tip: always run a temperature tower with every new spool. It's the best way to find the sweet spot and guarantee consistent, high-quality prints.

What are the best PLA+ filaments available in 2026?

After testing an unreasonable number of brands, I've learned that consistency is everything. If I had to recommend a couple of reliable options I always keep in my workshop, it would have to be Anycubic. They offer outstanding value for money and consistently deliver great results.

These are my two go-to filaments:

1. Anycubic PLA+ with RFID: If you have a compatible printer, this is a game changer. The printer detects the filament and automatically adjusts the settings. Less time tweaking parameters, more time printing. I've tested it myself and it's brilliant!
2. Anycubic High Speed PLA: This is my go-to filament whenever I need speed without sacrificing strength. It's optimised for next-generation printers and the results at high speeds are seriously impressive.

One final tip: always store your filament properly. Moisture is the number one enemy of any spool. A sealed bag with desiccant will save you a lot of headaches and failed prints down the line.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About PLA+ vs PLA

Can I use PLA+ in any 3D printer that already runs standard PLA?

Absolutely. If your FDM 3D printer can handle standard PLA filament, it will run PLA+ filament just as well — no hardware modifications needed.

Is PLA+ harder to print than PLA?

Not really, but it does need a small temperature tweak. As a general rule, raising your nozzle temperature by around 10–15 °C is all it takes to get the best results and maximum part strength.

Does PLA+ smell worse when printing?

In my experience, the smell is virtually identical to standard PLA — a faint, slightly sweet scent. Both are great materials for printing indoors without the harsh odours you get from other plastics.

Do I need a heated bed to print PLA+?

Strictly speaking, it's not essential for small prints, but I'd strongly recommend using a heated bed set to around 50–60 °C. It gives you rock-solid first-layer adhesion and almost completely eliminates warping (those lifted corners you want to avoid).

Can PLA+ be sanded and painted just like PLA?

Yes — and in my opinion, it actually takes finishing work even better. PLA+ sands down very easily, and its slightly more matte surface provides an excellent key for paints and primers to grip.

Conclusion: My Final Verdict as a Maker

After burning through kilos upon kilos of both materials, my conclusion is straightforward: PLA+ filament is the new standard for any maker who wants to produce functional, durable parts. The small price difference is more than justified by the gains in reliability, strength, and print quality.

Traditional PLA filament is still a brilliant, budget-friendly choice for quick visual prototypes, decorative figures, or proof-of-concept prints. But if your part needs to handle stress, snap-fit together, or simply look professional straight off the printer, PLA+ isn't an extra cost — it's a smart investment.

My advice is simple: give it a shot. Once you hold a PLA+ print in your hands and feel the difference in strength and finish, I promise it'll be very hard to go back. 😉