Definitive Guide to Warhammer Skeletons and 3D Printing 💀

Hey, what's up, makers! I'm Mr. Resin. If you're into the wargaming scene, you've probably noticed — just like I have — the absolute skeleton army takeover that's been sweeping tabletops lately.

In this guide, I'm going to break down why these minis have become the hottest thing in Warhammer and, more importantly, how to build your own undead legion from scratch. We'll cover everything from where to find the best designs (both official releases and killer third-party alternatives) to how to 3D print them with jaw-dropping quality.

And here's a quick heads-up: with the 3D printer resins we carry in the shop, you can raise armies with insane levels of detail without destroying your wallet. Let's breathe some life into those bones!

Why skeleton armies are absolutely everywhere right now

If you've stepped into a wargaming store or shown up to a tournament recently, you've seen it: Warhammer skeletons are absolutely everywhere. It looks like an undead plague has taken over every tabletop in sight — and that's no accident. From what I've seen, this "bone fever" is the perfect storm of three factors: they're incredibly strong on the table, a joy to customize, and thanks to 3D printing, building a massive army won't cost you a fortune.

Not long ago, if you wanted a skeleton horde, you had to shell out serious cash buying box after box of official minis. It was brutal. Now, with a decent resin printer and the right STL files, you can raise an entire legion on a shoestring budget. That's been a game-changer that's opened the door for way more players to experience the thrill of flooding the tabletop with a wave of bone.

The golden age of the undead

Make no mistake — the skeleton resurgence isn't just a passing trend. In my experience, it's built on very solid foundations in the current game meta. With the latest rule tweaks, these units have become incredibly point-efficient. Competitive players know it and are getting tremendous mileage out of them, which really shows at tournament level.

This competitive boom has sent community creativity through the roof. A basic skeleton just doesn't cut it anymore — now we want skeletal warriors, lich mages, bone abominations... The possibilities are genuinely wild! And this is exactly where 3D printing really flexes its muscles. If you want to dive deeper into this hobby space, check out my guide on Warhammer 40K miniatures, where I go much deeper into that universe.

Buy or print your skeletons? The big question

Here's the real question — the one every hobbyist eventually asks themselves: do I open my wallet and buy the official boxes, or do I roll up my sleeves and print my own Warhammer skeleton army?

Speaking from personal experience, there's no single right answer. Each path has its own appeal. On one hand, there's something almost ritualistic about cracking open a Games Workshop box — that fresh plastic smell, knowing the quality is going to be spot on. But on the other hand, there's the total creative freedom and genuine satisfaction of building an entire army with your own hands.

For me, it comes down to three things: budget, how much you want to customize, and most importantly, what kind of hobby experience you're after. This isn't about right or wrong — it's about choosing your own adventure.

Let's break it all down so you can figure out which option makes the most sense for your budget, your playstyle, and how deep you want to go into the hobby.

The hard truth about costs

Let's be honest: building a skeleton army that looks genuinely terrifying on the tabletop can get seriously expensive if you're only buying official miniatures. The cost per model is considerably higher, and if your plan is to field a horde of 100 or more warriors, the numbers add up fast.

This is where 3D printing comes in and changes everything. Once you have a printer, the cost of producing a miniature is, frankly, laughable. We're talking pennies per skeleton, depending on the size and resin you use.

That gives you incredible freedom to experiment without the fear of ruining a model you spent serious money on. And more importantly, it lets you build massive armies for a fraction of the price.

To give you a rough idea, the upfront cost of a 4K resin printer — which already delivers outstanding quality — pays for itself compared to what you'd spend on just a few boxes from a large army range. If you want a full breakdown of the numbers, I'd recommend checking out my article on whether 3D printing your own miniatures is actually worth it, where we go through everything in detail.

Customization and quality: let's get into it

The second major advantage of 3D printing is unlimited customization. On platforms like MyMiniFactory and Cults3D, there's an incredible community of artists creating alternative STL files for skeletons that will genuinely blow your mind. You can find pretty much anything:

• Unique styles: From Egyptian-inspired skeletons to cyber-undead, all the way to warriors in Viking armour — whatever you can imagine, it's probably out there.
• Dynamic poses: No more armies that look like a regiment of identical clones. You can print the same unit in dozens of different poses so it actually feels alive — or undead, you know what I mean.
• Custom loadouts: Want an entire regiment carrying halberds? Or maybe longbows across the board? With the right STL files, you make the rules.

As for quality, today's resin printers have reached a point where, in my opinion, they genuinely hold their own against injection-moulded plastic — especially when it comes to horde armies. With a good setup, the detail is incredibly sharp, and once painted, I can tell you that on the tabletop it's almost impossible to tell a printed skeleton apart from an official one.

How to choose the right 3D resin for your miniatures

Right then! If you've already taken the plunge into 3D printing — welcome aboard! Now comes one of the decisions that causes the most confusion: choosing the right resin so your Warhammer skeletons don't end up looking like a pile of melted bones. And I'm not joking — the resin you choose matters just as much as the printer itself.

Trust me, I've tried everything, and I can tell you that every resin type has its moment to shine in the workshop. For highly detailed miniatures full of intricate features like skeletons, not just any material will do. You need something that can capture every crack in the skull, each individual rib, and those tiny finger bones.

That's why in this section I'm going to walk you through my favourite resins for this kind of mini. Don't worry, I've got you covered! By the time you finish reading, you'll know exactly which bottle to grab off the shelf.

8K High Definition Resin: the king of detail

If you're after a level of detail that'll leave your mates speechless, high definition resin is your best bet. This is, without question, my go-to choice whenever I want a skeletal character or champion to truly stand out in the display case.

What I love about these resins is their ultra-low viscosity and incredibly rich pigmentation. In plain English, that means your printer's UV light cures razor-thin layers with surgical precision. The result? The finest details — teeth, shield engravings, cracks in a tibia — come out absolutely perfect.

• Key advantage: Incredible precision for capturing the smallest details.
• Ideal for: Skeletal heroes, lich wizards, and any mini you want for display.
• Worth noting: These tend to be a little more brittle than other resins. Handle these minis with the care they deserve!

ABS-like Resin: the tough all-rounder

Now, if your plan is to print a horde of 50 skeleton warriors that are going to see heavy action on the gaming table, you need something more robust. This is where ABS-like resin steps up and steals the show. These resins mimic the properties of ABS plastic, giving them a toughness and flexibility that standard resins can only dream of.

From experience, I can tell you this is crucial for skeleton armies. Spears, swords, and thin arms are weak points that'll snap if you so much as look at them the wrong way when using a brittle resin. With an ABS-like resin, your minis will survive transport, drops, and constant handling during games without breaking a sweat.

When it comes to durability, Anycubic resins of this type are outstanding. I've seen lab tests showing they significantly outperform other 3D printing materials for miniatures.

Water-Washable Resin: the convenient option

And finally, the option that's become incredibly popular thanks to how easy it is to use: water-washable resin. If the idea of handling isopropyl alcohol (IPA) fills you with dread, or you simply want a cleaner and faster post-processing workflow, this is your resin.

As you might expect, you can clean freshly printed parts with plain tap water. Just keep in mind — this doesn't make it non-toxic. Always wear gloves and a mask, and remember to cure the contaminated water in sunlight before disposing of it.

The biggest advantage is how much easier it makes post-processing. For large skeleton armies where you're cleaning dozens of minis at a time, the time you save — plus not having to buy IPA — is a seriously compelling reason to consider it.

To give you a clearer overview, here's a quick comparison table to help you make your decision.

Resin Comparison Chart for Printing Warhammer Skeletons

A table to help you choose the ideal resin based on your priorities: detail, durability, or ease of cleaning.

I hope this table works as a handy cheat sheet to keep you on track. Ultimately, the best thing you can do is experiment and find out which resin suits your workflow and how you actually use your minis.

If you're just starting out and want a proper deep-dive into the differences between all the materials, I'd highly recommend checking out my article with the complete guide to resin for 3D printing. It'll answer a ton of your questions!

Dialling in your printer settings for perfect skeletons

Right, now we get to the fun part. You've got your resin sorted, so it's time to roll up your sleeves and tell your printer exactly how to bring those Warhammer skeletons to life. And speaking from experience, skeletons are among the trickiest minis you can print. They're all razor-thin parts, gaps, and bones that a bad setup will turn into a blob of plastic.

Get your supports wrong and it's game over. You'll end up with horrible marks on the skull or ribcage, and the cleanup becomes a nightmare of sanding and filling. But don't panic — that's exactly why I'm here. I'm going to share my go-to tips so your skeletons come off the build plate looking spot-on, with supports that pop off with a simple click.

Orientation: 90% of the battle with skeleton minis

The very first thing to nail, before you even think about supports, is how you're going to position the miniature in your slicer (whether that's Lychee, Chitubox, or whatever you use). Trust me, orientation is 90% of the battle when printing such delicate figures.

My golden rule is to tilt the mini between 30 and 45 degrees backwards. Why? It lets you hide the vast majority of your supports on the back, the rear, and under the arms — areas that, once the mini is on its base, nobody is ever going to see.

My top tip: I always try to keep the most visible, eye-catching parts (the skull, the chest, the shield details) facing upward. That way, supports never touch those prime areas, and I save myself a ton of cleanup work afterwards.

Supports: thin as a pin, strong as an oak

Once your figure is oriented, it's time for the real challenge: supports. The game here is finding the perfect balance. You need them strong enough that the piece doesn't fail mid-print, but thin enough that you can remove them without taking a chunk of detail with them.

These are the base settings I use for 28-32mm skeletons:

• Support Type: I almost always go with "Light" or "Slim" supports. Keep it simple.
• Tip Diameter: I stay between 0.20 and 0.30mm. Too thin and you risk failures. Too thick and you'll leave a crater.
• Tip Penetration: 0.15mm is usually more than enough. It grips the piece well without fusing into it.
• Density: Less is more. No need to cover your mini in supports like a porcupine. Place them thoughtfully on "islands" (those areas that start printing in mid-air) and in key load-bearing spots, like the base of the spine or under the weapons.

You'll know you've nailed it when, after curing, you can pop the supports off with your fingers or a pair of fine tweezers and hear that satisfying "click" without snapping off any tiny bones. That's the goal!

One last tip: don't be afraid to add a couple of medium or heavy supports at the base of the miniature or on the base itself. These won't touch any detail areas and will ensure everything stays firmly anchored to the build plate. Better safe than sorry!

Speed painting techniques for your undead horde

Alright, time to get your hands dirty! Your Warhammer skeletons are fresh off the printer, cleaned up and ready to go. But then you look at that mountain of pale bone and the dread sets in: "How am I supposed to paint a hundred of these without losing my mind?" Don't panic — that's exactly what I'm here for.

Painting a horde army doesn't mean locking yourself away for three months. Forget picking out every individual rib. With a few tricks up your sleeve, you can have an undead legion battle-ready in record time and with results that'll genuinely impress you. Let's get into it!

Primer: the first step toward bony glory

Before a single drop of paint touches your minis, there's one sacred, non-negotiable step: priming. And no, it's not optional. Primer is what prepares the surface so your paint actually adheres properly instead of flaking off at the first opportunity.

But it doesn't stop there. The colour you choose for your primer is going to set the entire tone for your skeletons.

• Black primer: The perfect choice if you're going for a dark, grim look. The shadows are basically built in, so you only need to worry about highlighting the raised areas. A genuinely brilliant shortcut!
• White or bone primer: Ideal if you want a brighter, cleaner result. Any colours you layer on top will pop so much more. Personally, it's my go-to for skeletons — it gives you an incredible base for the bone tones right out of the gate.
• Zenithal priming: This is the star technique, and hands down my favourite. The idea is to prime the whole miniature black, then apply a very light coat of white or light grey primer from directly above, as if sunlight is hitting it. The result is instant, natural-looking shading that does 80% of the work for you. Pure witchcraft.

Contrast and Xpress Color: your new best friends

And here's the big secret to painting horde armies at lightning speed: next-generation paints. I'm talking about Citadel Contrast paints and Vallejo Xpress Color. These game-changers are designed to do the job of three separate layers — base coat, shade, and first highlight — in a single pass.

The concept is brilliantly simple: apply a generous coat over a light primer, and the paint flows into the recesses on its own to create shadows, while leaving a translucent base colour on the flat areas. Absolutely brilliant! For painting bone, a shade like Dwarf Skin or Skeleton Horde from the Xpress Color range is, quite simply, perfect.

For anyone tackling massive armies, these paints are a total game changer. They let you achieve stunning bone effects in very little time per miniature. If you want to keep up with how these tools are reshaping the hobby, check out this article on the latest news from the hobby world.

Pro tip! Don't be afraid to thin your Xpress Color paint slightly with its dedicated medium if you're after a more subtle finish. Controlling the intensity is the key to truly mastering this technique.

Drybrushing: the finishing touch that changes everything

Once your Xpress Color layer is completely dry, it's time to bring those bones to life with some real texture and depth. And nothing beats the classic drybrushing technique for exactly that.

Grab an old, stiff-bristled brush, load it with a little light bone-coloured paint (like Vallejo Bone White), then wipe off almost all the paint on a piece of kitchen roll until the brush barely leaves a mark. Now drag it quickly and lightly across the entire miniature. The tiny amount of paint left on the brush will catch only the edges and raised surfaces — skulls, ribcages, knuckles…

With this one simple step, the level of detail goes through the roof and your skeletons go from looking "decent" to looking "absolutely incredible." To finish things off, add a few colour details: paint the shields in oxidised metal, the leather straps in a warm brown, and dot the eyes with a bright accent colour. Done! A battle-ready skeleton in no time at all. Now — multiply by a hundred!

Creating themed bases for an unforgettable army

Take it from experience: a stunning miniature with hours of careful paintwork can be completely undermined by a dull, lifeless base. Don't make that mistake! The base isn't just a piece of plastic to keep the model upright — it's part of the story. It's the glue that ties your whole army together and elevates it from "cool" to "absolutely legendary."

Let's give our Warhammer skeletons the bases they truly deserve. Forget the standard black or the same old static grass. We're going to build little scenes that tell the story of where these undead came from — and why you should fear them. Trust me, it's way easier and more fun than you'd expect.

Simple ideas for themed bases

First things first: what story do you want to tell? Did your skeletons just claw their way out of a forgotten graveyard? Are they patrolling the ruins of a dusty dungeon? Or maybe they're marching across a cursed desert? Each idea opens up a whole world of materials and colour choices.

To get you started on the right foot, here are my three favourite themes for skeleton armies. They're all classics — and best of all, incredibly easy to pull off:

• The classic graveyard: The foolproof option. A bit of texture paste, a 3D-printed headstone (or one cut from foam board — no shame in that), and you're already there. Add some dry static grass and a few pigments for a dusty, weathered look, and the result is absolutely stunning.
• Dungeon stone floor: Perfect for D&D armies, Warhammer Quest, or if you just love that underground aesthetic. Grab a thin sheet of cork, break it into irregular chunks, and glue them down. It instantly reads as cracked flagstone. Paint it in grey tones, hit all the recesses with a dark wash, and you'll be amazed how good it looks.
• Desert of bones: What about a horde of skeletons rising from the sands of time? A little texture paste mixed with fine sand, a skull from a spare miniature, a few tufts of dry grass — and you've got a scene straight out of a movie.

A little secret: the base should complement the miniature, not compete with it. Play with contrast. If your skeleton is painted in light bone tones, a darker base will make it pop dramatically.

Materials and techniques to bring them to life

You don't need to spend a fortune on modelling supplies. You'd be surprised what you can achieve with a handful of things you already have at home or can pick up for next to nothing. My basing kit is basically a junk drawer full of "just in case" bits that have saved me more times than I can count.

Here's what I reach for on 90% of my projects:

1. Acrylic texture paste: This is the foundation of everything — literally. Brands like Vallejo offer earth, sand, and mud pastes that are an absolute joy to work with. Apply with an old spatula, let it dry, and you've got a textured surface ready to paint.
2. Cork and slate: Cork from a notice board, broken off in chunks with your fingers, is perfect for simulating rocks or paving stones. And aquarium slate, carefully broken up, gives you incredibly realistic rock flakes with just enough weight to keep your miniature stable.
3. Sand and fine gravel: A timeless classic. Brush on some PVA glue, sprinkle over beach sand (clean and dry!) or modelling sand, and you're done.
4. 3D-printed details: This is where your 3D printer becomes the star of the show. Small headstones, skulls, broken bones, crumbling wall sections — printing little details like these will take your bases to a completely different level.

Once your texture is set, painting is a breeze. Prime it, lay down a base colour, apply a generous wash to pick out all the shadows (Agrax Earthshade or something similar is liquid gold for this), then finish with a light drybrush in a pale colour to catch the raised edges. Done! An incredible base in under 15 minutes.

Frequently Asked Questions About Warhammer Skeletons and 3D Printing

To wrap up this guide, let's tackle those questions I keep getting from the community. If there's anything else on your mind after this, you know where to find me! 🤙

Is it legal to 3D print Warhammer skeletons?

Let's get straight to the million-dollar question. The quick answer is a big, resounding "it depends."

Let's be clear: copying and distributing designs that are direct replicas of Games Workshop models is illegal. Full stop. Their artists put in incredible work and that deserves respect. Don't go down that road — it'll cause you nothing but trouble, and it's just not cool.

Now, the world of proxies (alternative models) is a different story. This is where the 3D printing community really shines. We're talking about original designs, built from scratch by independent artists. If you're using them for private games without selling them, you're in a pretty safe grey area. Support these creators and give your army a truly unique look!

What resin 3D printer do you recommend for beginners?

Rather than telling you "buy this one" — technology moves fast and today's top pick is tomorrow's old news — I'd rather give you the key things to look for so you can make the right call. For printing skeletons with jaw-dropping detail, I'd say don't go below a 4K resolution printer.

Right now, 8K printers are getting more affordable all the time and will give you a massive jump in quality on the finest details. Also look for a good build volume so you can print multiple minis in one go, and a brand with a strong community behind it, like Anycubic or Elegoo. Having a solid community will save you more than once when it comes to print profiles and troubleshooting.

How do I stop skeleton weapons from snapping?

Ah, the eternal struggle of spears and swords that break if you so much as look at them! The secret, my friend, is all in the resin. For those super thin, delicate parts, you need a material that can take the punishment.

That's why my recommendation is to go straight for an ABS-like resin. Its impact resistance is miles ahead of standard resins. It's the difference between a warrior and a pile of little bones!

Another pro tip: watch your cure time. Over-cure a part and it becomes incredibly hard — but also incredibly brittle. It's better to cure just enough so the piece is solid, while keeping that slight flexibility that'll save it from a clumsy tumble off the table.

Can I use an FDM printer for skeleton miniatures?

Technically, yes. But if you're asking me, for 28–32mm miniatures, my honest answer is: don't even think about it.

An FDM filament printer is like drawing with a thick marker. No matter how fine a nozzle you use, you'll never get anywhere near the level of detail you get from a resin printer (SLA/DLP) — which is more like drawing with a precision mechanical pencil.

All those details that make a skeleton look amazing — the fine bones, the teeth, the cracks in the skull — will be lost or come out as a blurry mess. If you want the definition your undead legion deserves, resin is, without question, the only way to go.

Conclusion:

There you have it, maker! You now have everything you need to raise your own legion of Warhammer skeletons from scratch. We've covered why they're so awesome, how to pick the perfect resin to make them tough enough to handle anything, and even my tips for painting them at lightning speed.

My final advice? Don't hold back — experiment! Try different resins, play around with supports, and most importantly, have fun painting. 3D printing gives us incredible creative freedom, so make the most of it and build an army that's truly 100% your own.

So what are you waiting for? Head over to the shop and grab your arsenal of photopolymer resins — let's get printing! 🔥