Vallejo True Metallic Metal (TMM): The Most Complete Review to Achieve Real Metallic Effects

Makers, let's dive right in! Today I'm bringing you one of those ranges that's a genuine game-changer on the painting table: Vallejo True Metallic Metal (TMM). If you're fed up with metallics that look like carnival glitter or barely cover anything, stick around. I'm going to tell you why, ever since I tried them, they've become an absolute staple in my workshop for bringing our 3D printed pieces to life.

It's no secret that achieving a metallic finish that actually looks like real metal — not painted plastic covered in glitter — is the holy grail of miniature painting. And this is especially true with our 3D resin figures, where every single detail matters.

What blew me away right from the start was the pigment. Vallejo has used real metallic particles — not micas — and trust me, you can absolutely tell the difference. They're ultra-fine, suspended in a special solvent-based medium, and the result is a true-scale shine I hadn't seen before. You know that feeling when you paint a suit of armor and it actually looks like metal instead of a toy? That's exactly what you get.

In my experience, the Vallejo True Metallic Metal (TMM) range has completely changed my approach to painting. Its real metallic pigment is the closest I've ever come to painting with liquid metal.

In this guide, I'm going to walk you through the entire process — from prepping your printed pieces all the way to that final coat of varnish. No more frustration, I've got you covered. I'll show you how to get the absolute most out of these paints and achieve display-quality results.

And if your curiosity is already getting the better of you, you can browse the full Vallejo True Metallic Metal (TMM) range in the store and start picking your favourite shades. Let's get into it!

TMM vs. NMM: The eternal metallic debate

Here comes the big dilemma — the million-dollar question every miniature painter has asked themselves at least once: do I go with True Metallic Metal (TMM), or do I take the plunge with the Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) technique? It's one of the hobby's greatest ongoing debates, so let's break it down properly, as if we were chatting over a coffee.

The quick, impressive route: True Metallic Metal (TMM)

The TMM technique involves using paints that contain real metallic particles in their formula. TMM paints, like those in the Vallejo True Metallic Metal range we're looking at today, have a built-in advantage. They contain actual metallic particles. This means the shine you achieve is physical — light bounces off the surface and creates that metallic effect we're all after.

Personally, it's my go-to choice. It's faster, far more intuitive, and let's be honest, it delivers incredible realism for a fraction of the effort. Whether you're painting an entire army or you simply don't want to spend three evenings on a single pauldron, TMM is your best friend.

The painter's path: Non-Metallic Metal (NMM)

The NMM (Non-Metallic Metal) technique involves simulating the look of metal using only matte paints. NMM is in a league of its own — this isn't just painting, it's closer to visual trickery. With this technique, you replicate the shine and reflections of metal using nothing but matte-finish paints. Every highlight, every shadow, every reflection of sky or ground is painted entirely by hand.

The results can be absolutely stunning — like pulling a 2D illustration to life. But that comes at a cost: it demands highly refined technique, a great deal of patience, and a time investment that, honestly, not everyone has or wants to put into every single miniature.

Quick comparison: TMM or NMM?

To make things clearer, I've put together a table. Use it to decide which technique suits your project and experience level best.

The key difference between TMM and NMM is that TMM uses real metallic pigments for a physical shine, while NMM simulates that shine with matte paints — demanding far more technique and time. As you can see, neither option is objectively better than the other; it all comes down to what you're after.

If you're feeling the itch to give NMM a go, I'd recommend checking out my guide to painting a sword with this technique, where I walk through the whole process at a more relaxed pace.

That said, I'll be honest with you — on my own workbench, TMM wins out for 90% of my projects, thanks to its incredible balance of efficiency and the outstanding realism it delivers.

My method for using Vallejo TMM like a pro

Let's get into it! Now that you know what the True Metallic Metal range is all about, let's move on to the fun part: how to get the most out of it on your miniatures. Forget the theory — here we're focusing on what actually works at the workbench. And trust me, it all starts with proper preparation.

The foundation is everything: priming and first coat

Don't skip this step — seriously. A solid black or dark grey primer is non-negotiable. It's what makes the metallic pigments in Vallejo TMM pop like they have a life of their own. It also gives the paint something to grip onto properly. This is one step I never, ever skip.

Once your figure is prepped, it's time for the base coat. Here's the key trick: thinning. My starting point, whether I'm using a brush or airbrush, is adding around 10% Airbrush Thinner. This gives you perfect coverage without killing that beautiful metallic sheen.

Bringing the metal to life: shadows, highlights, and finishing touches

Now it's time to add depth and realism. For shadows, I reach for colours like TMM Shade to pick out recesses, simulate natural wear, or simply add volume to the piece.

The magic moment — the one that makes everything pop — comes with the highlights. A good dry brush or carefully edge-highlighting with lighter colours like Silver is what makes the metal look genuinely convincing.

Pro tip: If you're painting large surfaces — a vehicle, a full suit of armour — an airbrush is your best friend. It gives you an incredibly smooth, even coat and a professional finish that's almost impossible to replicate with a brush alone. Take a look at the airbrushes I recommend in the shop.

Finally, and just as importantly: protect your work. This step is CRUCIAL. I usually go with a satin varnish so I don't kill the metallic effect — it keeps the right level of sheen without looking like a mirror. If you want to dig deeper, check out this airbrushing guide where they cover it in much more detail.

Brush vs. Airbrush: My hands-on experience with TMM

Here's where it gets interesting. I'm going to share my personal experience with the TMM range using both a brush and my trusty airbrush — because believe me, the experience is very different, and I want you to know what you're getting into before you start.

With a brush: Coverage, shine, and how many coats you'll need

For edge highlighting, painting rivets, or any small detail work that demands precision, the brush is king. What I love about these paints is their consistency. They self-level beautifully, and if you're a little careful, brushstrokes practically vanish on their own. No more ugly streaks ruining an otherwise great paint job!

In my experience, coverage is good — but because these paints are slightly thinner than other metallics, I sometimes go in with a second thin coat for a fully opaque finish, especially with lighter colours like silver. The shine, though, is spectacular right from the first pass.

My go-to technique is simple: thin coats and patience. Load your brush with just a little paint, wipe off the excess on a palette (or a scrap of paper — no judgement here), and apply it gently. Two thin coats will always beat one thick one that swallows all the detail you worked so hard to print.

With an airbrush: Factory-smooth results

When you need to cover large surfaces or achieve smooth, even gradients, nothing beats the airbrush. This is where the TMM Airbrush sub-range really shines. It comes practically ready to use straight out of the bottle, pre-thinned to the right consistency. Just shake it well, pour it into the cup, and enjoy the ride.

But what about regular TMM colors? I use those in my airbrush too, no question about it! I just thin them down with their specific thinner or, in a pinch, with isopropyl alcohol until they reach a milk-like consistency. This gives you a smooth, ultra-professional finish — perfect for armour, spacecraft, or vehicles.

If airbrushing sounds like something you want to master, don't miss the guide I put together on how to choose the best airbrush for miniatures.

Vallejo TMM vs. Citadel: Which Is Better for Your Miniatures?

The million-dollar question, the ultimate showdown in the miniature painting world: Vallejo vs. Citadel. As a painter who has dirtied brushes with both brands for more years than I care to admit, I'm going to give you my honest, unfiltered opinion.

Fair warning — we're not going to crown one absolute "winner" here, because that doesn't exist. It's all about figuring out which one works better for you and the kind of finish you're going for on your miniatures. Let's get into it!

Realism and Final Finish

When it comes to pure, uncompromising realism, for me, Vallejo TMM takes the gold medal — and by a clear margin.

The secret is in the pigment. The metallic particle that Vallejo uses is incredibly fine, almost powder-like. The result? A satin, convincing finish that genuinely looks like metal. When you apply it to a piece, the effect is stunning.

Citadel metallics have improved enormously — no doubt about it — but they can still sometimes have that slight "glitter" quality. That's not necessarily a bad thing, but if your goal is maximum realism, TMM will deliver it without you having to fight for it.

Ease of Use and Coverage

This is where things get interesting and the competition levels out. Vallejo TMM paints are thinner straight out of the bottle, which makes them a dream for airbrushing. In fact, the TMM Airbrush range is an absolute joy — straight from the bottle into the cup, no fuss. With a brush, though, you'll sometimes need a second coat for perfect coverage.

Citadel Base paints, on the other hand, are well-known for their incredible coverage. They're thicker and, generally speaking, one pass is enough to get a solid, satisfying result. They're workhorse paints — straightforward and effective.

Personally, I think Vallejo's colour system (Base, Light, Shade) is a stroke of genius, especially for beginners, because it guides you through the highlighting process. Citadel's range, by contrast, is so vast that it can feel overwhelming when you're just starting to build your palette.

And of course, we can't wrap up without talking about the packaging. Vallejo's dropper bottles are a godsend. You dispense exactly the amount you need and the paint doesn't dry out within days. A clear point to Vallejo!

TMM Colours: The Ones Every Painter Needs in Their Collection

Right, let's get to the good stuff. The Vallejo TMM range is brilliant, but it's also huge. If you're just starting out, it's easy to feel a bit lost among so many bottles. To cut through the noise and help you shop with confidence, I've put together my personal "survival kit." You can't go wrong with these!

If you could only start with three colours, my absolute top recommendation is to grab these:

• TMM Base Gunmetal Grey: The perfect starting point for any dark steel effect. It's an incredibly versatile colour you'll end up reaching for on almost every project.
• TMM Shade Black: Essential for adding depth and shadows to any metallic surface. An absolute must-have!
• TMM Light Silver: The magic touch for final highlights and edge lining that really brings a miniature to life.

Honestly, with just these three paints you can handle 90% of the weapons and armour you'll ever need to paint. Trust me on this one!

What about golds and other metals?

If gold is your thing, I'd recommend starting with the TMM Base in Gold and building up highlights with TMM Light Gold for a stunning finish. And if you're after more of an aged gold or a solid bronze, the TMM Base Copper is an absolute gem.

It's worth knowing that Vallejo True Metallic Metal (TMM) paints are alcohol-based with genuine metallic pigments. If you want to find out more about the composition of these paints, you can check out more info here.

A word of advice: if these catch your eye, don't hesitate. Investing in quality paints means investing in better results, and these are worth every penny.

To make things even easier, Vallejo offers some great value sets. The 4-colour TMM set is a brilliant way to get started. And if you really want to go all in and master the art of TMM, the complete TMM case or the True Metallic Metal BSL book are dream purchases for any serious painter.

FAQ: Your Vallejo True Metallic Metal Questions Answered

Whenever I bring up TMM paints in conversation, the same questions always come up. That's perfectly understandable — these are a bit of a different beast compared to standard acrylics. So I've pulled together the most common questions with straightforward, no-nonsense answers to help you get started without any headaches.

Do TMM paints need a special thinner?

Absolutely, yes. These paints are alcohol-based, which means water is their kryptonite. Don't even think about mixing the two.

You'll want to use Vallejo Airbrush Thinner (71.161), which is specifically designed for them. In a pinch, isopropyl alcohol can also do the job. This is especially important if you're airbrushing, as it ensures the paint flows properly and won't clog your nozzle.

Can they be mixed with regular acrylics?

Not a good idea, genuinely. Mixing an alcohol-based paint like TMM with a water-based acrylic is a recipe for a curdled, unusable mess on your palette.

Keep them separate. If you want to apply one over the other, make sure there's a fully dried varnish layer in between. That's the only way to get them to play nicely together.

Is varnishing over TMM paints really necessary?

It's not strictly required, but I'd strongly recommend it. A good satin varnish protects that beautiful metallic finish without killing the sheen.

On top of that, if you're planning to apply any weathering effects afterwards (oils, enamels, etc.), that varnish layer acts as a protective barrier. It'll stop the solvents in your weathering products from eating into the TMM paint underneath.

Why is my paint clumping up?

Almost certainly it comes down to one thing: you haven't shaken it enough. The metallic pigment in these paints is incredibly dense and absolutely loves sinking to the bottom of the pot.

The fix is simple: shake the pot like your life depends on it. Really go for it for at least a minute, and if you've got a mixing ball in there, even better. You'll notice the texture completely transform.

Who is the Vallejo TMM range ideal for?

In my opinion, the Vallejo True Metallic Metal range is ideal for any miniature painter, from total beginner to seasoned expert, who wants a realistic metallic finish without the complexity of the NMM technique. They're perfect for armies, vehicles, armour and any piece where you want metal to actually look like metal — quickly and effectively. If you value realism and efficiency, these paints are for you.

Final Verdict

To wrap things up, the Vallejo True Metallic Metal (TMM) range is, for me, a solid 10/10 if you're after seriously convincing metallic realism without the headache. The fine pigment, satin finish and ease of use — especially with an airbrush — make these an essential tool on my painting desk.

We've covered how they compare to NMM, how to use them with a brush and airbrush, their key colours, and how they stack up against Citadel. I hope this review has answered all your questions and inspires you to give them a try. You won't regret it! And if you're ready to pick some up, you know where to find them! 😉