🤔 What's Cheaper, Filament or Resin? The Ultimate Cost Guide

At first glance, the scales seem to tip one way: filament is cheaper than resin if you're only looking at the price per kilogram. But hold on! If you stop there, you're only seeing half the picture. The true cost of each printed part is a puzzle with far more pieces: the type of model, the consumables you use, and the time you invest in finishing it properly.

Quick Answer: Which Is Cheaper?

Straight to the point: yes, filament has a lower upfront cost per kilogram. A basic PLA spool is more affordable than a standard bottle of resin. But if you've made it this far, you probably already sense that in 3D printing, price per kilo is just the tip of the iceberg. 🧊 The real cost lies in the everyday details.

In this guide, we're going to break down all those hidden costs so you can make a smart, informed choice. We'll cover material price, consumable expenses, post-processing time, and which option makes the most sense depending on your goals. We'll help you decide whether buying 3D resin is the right call for your high-detail projects, or whether versatile 3D printing filament is the better fit.

Price Comparison: Per kg/litre

Let's cut to the chase. 💰 When you look at the purchase price, the difference is obvious — and it's the first thing that makes you wonder whether filament or resin is cheaper.

Filament Price (per kilogram)

The most common and popular filament, PLA (polylactic acid), is the undisputed king of affordability. A 1 kg spool of good-quality standard PLA typically falls within a very attractive price range.

• Standard PLA price range (1 kg): Between $12 and $30.

If you're looking for materials with enhanced mechanical properties — like PETG (more impact-resistant) or ABS (durable and heat-resistant) — the price goes up a little, but it's still very competitive.

• PETG/ABS price range (1 kg): Generally between $15 and $40.

This low upfront cost makes filament a very appealing option, especially for beginners.

Resin Price (per litre)

Now let's talk resin. Starting prices here are noticeably higher. Resin is typically sold in 1-litre or 1-kilogram bottles.

• Standard resin price range (1 kg): Usually starting around $15–$35, and going up to $60 or more.

And if you need resins with specific properties, costs climb even further.

• Specialty resins (ABS-like, high-detail): Prices can easily exceed $20–$100 per kilogram.

The difference is clear: filament has a lower starting price per kilogram. But is that the true final cost? 🤔 Keep reading — this is where things get interesting.

Real cost per part: The hidden expenses

Now that we know filament is cheaper off the shelf, it's time to head down to the workshop and face the harsh reality. The price per kilogram is just the starting point — the true cost of a printed part is shaped by the hidden expenses that add up along the way.

This is where the question "what's cheaper, filament or resin 3D printing?" gets really interesting.

1. Support material waste 🗑️

• Filament (FDM): Supports are thick and chunky — think scaffolding. They eat up a significant amount of material, and removing them is a pain that leaves marks you'll need to sand down.
• Resin (SLA/DLP): Supports are incredibly thin, almost needle-like. They're optimised to minimise waste, snap off easily, and leave barely any marks behind.

For a complex miniature, filament supports can waste 15–25% of your material. With resin, that figure drops to just 5–10%.

2. Consumables and cleaning supplies 🧼

• Filament: Extra costs are minimal — the occasional replacement nozzle (very cheap) or some bed adhesion spray.
• Resin: The list adds up quickly. You'll need isopropyl alcohol (IPA) to wash your prints (a 5L jug runs around £20–25), nitrile gloves, paper towels, and replacement FEP/ACF film for the vat (£15–30 each).

3. The failed print problem 👻

A failed print means wasted material and wasted time.

• Filament: The usual suspects are warping (lifted corners), clogged extruders, or a bed adhesion failure halfway through a 12-hour print.
• Resin: Failures are typically caused by poor levelling, insufficient supports, or incorrect exposure settings. A bad print can leave cured resin stuck to the FEP, forcing you to clean out the entire vat.

4. Time is money: Post-processing ⏳

This is the key factor that most people overlook.

• Filament: For a smooth finish, expect to spend time sanding, filling, and priming. That's hours of hands-on work.
• Resin: Parts come out nearly print-ready. You just need to wash them, remove supports, and cure them under UV light. The time you save on finishing work is substantial — and it more than makes up for the higher material cost.

When filament is the better choice (large/functional parts)

Filament is the clear winner when your priority is functionality, strength, and size. 💪

• Large parts and functional prototypes: If you need to print bulky objects (helmets, enclosures, scale models) or mechanical parts that take a beating, the low cost per kilogram of filament makes the cost per part unbeatable.
• Mechanical strength: Materials like PETG, ABS, and ASA offer far greater durability and impact resistance than most standard resins.
• Less hassle: The process is cleaner and more straightforward — ideal if you don't want to deal with chemicals and post-processing.

Bottom line: for large, sturdy projects where extreme detail isn't a priority, filament will be far cheaper and more practical.

When resin is the better choice (miniatures/detail/jewellery)

At first glance, the price per litre can be off-putting. But there are situations where resin doesn't just compete — it wins the cost battle. 🤑 The secret isn't on the label; it's in evaluating the final result and, above all, your time.

The scales tip in favour of resin when your priority is extreme detail and a flawless finish straight off the printer.

• Miniatures, figures, and jewellery: Printing a wargaming army with filament means hours upon hours of sanding. With resin, parts come out ready to paint. The time you save on finishing easily offsets — and then some — the higher material cost.
• Visual prototypes: If you need to present a product to a client, a resin part looks like a finished product, not a prototype.
• Small-batch production: You can fill the build plate with dozens of small parts and print them all at once, taking no longer than printing a single piece. Maximum efficiency!

There's a solution for every need:

• For maximum detail: high-definition resin is king.
• To cut running costs: water-washable resin eliminates the need for alcohol.
• For tough functional prototypes: ABS-like resin delivers excellent durability.

Final recommendation by user profile

At this point, the question is no longer "what's cheaper?" — it's: "what's the best value for you?"

For the beginner on a tight budget 💸

If you're just starting out and every penny counts, filament (FDM) is your best friend. The barrier to entry — both for the printer and the material — is much lower. It's the ideal entry point for learning the ropes without your bank account taking a hit.

For the artist and miniature painter 🎨

There's no debate here. If your passion is creating highly detailed figures, wargaming armies, or jewellery, resin (SLA/DLP) is your technology. The initial outlay is higher, but you'll see the return in quality and, above all, in time saved.

For the engineer and functional parts maker 🛠️

When the goal is producing prototypes that hold up, tools, or mechanical components, filament is king once again. It offers superior mechanical properties and unbeatable cost on large parts.

Quick Comparison Table: Which One Is Right for You?

FAQ: Your Most Common Questions Answered

Let's cut to the chase and tackle the questions you're probably already asking yourself.

1. Which is easier to start with — filament or resin?

Filament (FDM) is generally the most beginner-friendly option. The material is easy to handle, and there are no chemicals involved. Resin printing requires a bit more discipline around the washing and curing process, which demands extra care and attention.

2. Are resin printers a lot more expensive than FDM printers?

Surprisingly, no! Entry-level machines for both technologies are priced very similarly. You can find capable printers from either category starting around £150–200. The real difference is that with resin, you'll almost certainly want to budget for a UV wash and cure station (an extra £100–150) to make the process safe and convenient.

3. Can I use any resin in any resin printer?

In the vast majority of cases, yes. Almost all hobbyist resin printers use 405nm UV light, making them compatible with most resins on the market. That said, always check the manufacturer's recommendations and use the correct exposure profiles for each specific resin.

Conclusion

So, which is actually cheaper — filament or resin?

• Filament wins if you're focused purely on cost per kilogram and need to print large, functional, durable parts where fine detail isn't a priority.
• Resin is the better value when you need exceptional detail and a flawless finish — think miniatures or jewellery. The hours saved on post-processing easily justify the higher material cost.

Ultimately, the right choice depends entirely on your project. Now that you have all the information, we'd love for you to explore our store. At Mr. Resin, you'll find the best 3D printing filaments alongside an incredible range of resins for every need.

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✨ Happy Printing! 🚀