Hey there, maker! I'm Mr Resin. If you're into the world of 3D printing, you've probably heard of high speed resin. It promises lightning-fast prints and, after putting it through its paces, I can tell you it's not just marketing hype — it's a genuine game-changer that can completely transform the way you work.
High speed resin is a photopolymer formulated to cure under UV light in record time, typically between 1 and 2 seconds per layer, allowing you to print up to 3 to 5 times faster than with standard resins.
What exactly is high speed resin?
High speed resin is a photopolymer engineered to cure (harden under ultraviolet light) much faster than standard resins. Its formula is optimized for modern resin 3D printers, which feature powerful UV light sources and screens, dramatically cutting down print times.
The secret behind its speed isn't magic — it's pure chemistry and physics. In my experience, it all comes down to two factors: an extremely low viscosity and highly reactive chemistry. Let me break it down for you!
The magic of low viscosity
Think of standard resin like honey. As the build plate moves up and down, the thick resin takes a moment to level itself out for the next layer. That small delay, multiplied across thousands of layers, adds up to hours of extra print time.
Now think of high speed resin as water. It flows instantly. This lets the build plate move much faster, cutting out those precious seconds between layers. In my own workshop, I've found that this fluidity also dramatically reduces print failures caused by suction force (peel force), especially on larger prints.
Chemical reactivity at its finest
The other key is its chemical formula. High speed resins use photoinitiators that work like elite athletes — far more sensitive and efficient. In practice, they need significantly less UV exposure time to solidify.
Where a standard resin might need, say, 3 seconds of exposure per layer, a high speed resin can drop that down to just 1.5 seconds. That's half the time! Multiply those savings across 2,000 layers on a single print, and the time you save is seriously impressive.
Mr Resin's tip: If your curiosity is already getting the better of you and you want to start experimenting, I'd recommend checking out our full range of resin for 3D printers to see all your options. And if you really want to master the subject, I've put together a complete guide covering the different types of resin for 3D printers that's well worth a read.
What sets high speed resin apart from standard resin?
The main difference between a high speed resin and a standard one is its chemical formulation, tuned to cure at full speed and flow with a very low viscosity. This is achieved by adjusting the type and concentration of photoinitiators, the base viscosity, and the pigmentation — all to get the most out of the latest generation of resin 3D printers.
Time to put on my lab coat and let you in on the secrets. Because no, it's not just about speed — it's the entire formula that's different.
A matter of chemistry and flow
Viscosity is everything. Fast resins are much thinner, typically sitting between 100–200 mPa·s. A standard resin is stickier, usually around 250–400 mPa·s.
What does that mean in practice? Fast resin settles almost instantly between layers. This lets your printer's Z-axis move up and down at full speed without suction issues, dramatically cutting print times.
Another factor is pigmentation. Fast resins tend to use less pigment so UV light can penetrate aggressively, curing each layer in the blink of an eye.
Mr Resin's tip: Don't get too hung up on colour. From experience, I can tell you that a light grey fast resin — like the Anycubic High Speed 2.0 Resin — gives you a fantastic balance between speed and the ability to see every last detail on your miniatures. It's one of my personal favourites!
Comparison Table: High Speed Resin vs. Standard Resin
So you can see it all at a glance, here's a quick comparison table covering the specs that actually matter day to day.
| Property | High Speed Resin | Standard Resin |
|---|---|---|
| Exposure Time (0.05 mm layer) | 1.5 – 2.5 seconds | 3.0 – 4.5 seconds |
| Viscosity (at 25°C) | ~150 mPa·s | ~350 mPa·s |
| Shore Hardness | High (approx. 80–84D) | Medium-High (approx. 78–82D) |
| Tensile Strength | 25–40 MPa | 35–50 MPa |
| Odour | Low (but always ventilate!) | Low to moderate |
| Cleaning | Very easy with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) | Easy with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) |
As you can see, the main advantage is a massive reduction in exposure time. The trade-off? You sometimes give up a little mechanical strength — these resins tend to be more rigid and slightly more brittle. But for miniatures or prototypes, the strength is more than sufficient.
What 3D printer do I need for high speed resin?
To get the most out of a high speed resin, you need a printer that can keep up. Using it in an underpowered machine is like putting Formula 1 fuel in a city car — it'll run, but you won't get anywhere near the performance you're after. Speed is the result of a perfect pairing: the right resin with the right printer.
The secret is in the mono LCD screen
The screen is the key component. You need a printer with a monochrome LCD (mono) screen and a powerful UV light source. Older printers with colour (RGB) LCD screens simply don't have enough output to cure resin in the 1 to 2 seconds we're aiming for.
Mono screens let through up to 3 to 4 times more UV light. This intensity is what activates the photoinitiators in fast resin almost instantaneously. They're also far more durable. If you want to dive deeper, I cover this extensively in my guide to resin 3D printers.
Watch your firmware and slicer
Another detail a lot of people overlook: your printer's firmware and your slicing software both need to be up to the task. There's no point curing a layer in 1.5 seconds if your build plate takes forever to lift and lower.
Modern printers built for high speed use motors that allow extremely fast lift movements, often exceeding 180 mm/min. Your slicer needs profiles that actually take advantage of these speeds.
In my experience, most resin printers released from 2021 onwards — especially from brands like Anycubic or Elegoo — already come with mono screens and are more than ready to go. If you own an Anycubic Photon or one of the newer Elegoo Mars models, you're in great shape.
Do I lose quality or detail when printing this fast?
This is the big question: do you have to sacrifice quality for speed? I'll be straight with you — there's a small trade-off, but in my experience the loss of detail is minimal if you know what you're doing. The key is knowing when it matters and when it doesn't. After hundreds of prints, I can tell you the difference is barely noticeable for most projects.
The age-old debate: speed vs. detail
Let's put this in context. If your goal is to print a miniature for a high-level painting competition, a high-definition resin is still the way to go.
But what about the other 90% of projects? That's where high speed resin becomes your best friend:
- Functional prototypes: If you need to test a fit, speed is your priority. Extreme detail can wait.
- Large prints and scenery: Printing a castle or a cosplay prop? The time savings are massive, and no one's going to notice a micron of difference in detail.
- Batch production: Need a hundred bases for your army? With fast resin you'll have them done in an afternoon, not over a whole weekend.
Trust me on this: the factor that will impact quality the most isn't the resin — it's how well-dialled-in your profile is. Properly tuned parameters are the real secret.
How do I avoid losing detail?
The key is finding the sweet spot in your settings. Printing at a layer height of 0.05 mm is still incredibly fast with this resin and offers a perfect balance.
Don't forget to fine-tune your lift speed and rest times. To make things easier, I've packed all my experience into my Anycubic settings guide, which is a great starting point. The technology is moving fast, and the latest Anycubic resins have made huge strides in the speed/quality balance.
Who is fast resin best suited for?
Fast resin is your best friend when you're racing against the clock — especially for batch production and rapid prototyping. In my workshop, I reach for it constantly to keep projects moving when speed matters more than ultra-fine detail.
Prototypes at full speed: design and iteration without the wait
If you work in design or engineering, high speed resin is a total game-changer. Picture this: you design a part in the morning, print three variants before lunch, and have your final prototype ready by afternoon. That kind of turnaround lets you iterate without hesitation.
Batch production: the power of multiplication
This is where fast resin really flexes. Need an army for a wargame, or a batch of keychains for an event? The difference is staggering.
A real example from my workshop: printing 100 x 25mm bases with a standard resin can take 8–10 hours. With a quality fast 3D resin like the Anycubic High Speed 2.0 Resin, that same job is done in under 3 hours. The time savings are massive.
Mr Resin's tip: My personal recommendation — always keep a bottle of high speed resin on the shelf. Even if you don't use it for everything, it'll be a lifesaver for those "I need this now" moments. To see how it fits into the bigger picture of resin types, check out our guide to consumer resins for 3D printing.
What print settings should I use?
No way I'd leave you hanging! A Mr Resin guide isn't complete without a solid cheat sheet of parameters so you're not flying blind. Here are my personal settings to help your first high speed resin print go smoothly.
Recommended starting parameters
These are the values I typically use for a fast 3D resin. They're a solid starting point for a modern monochrome printer, balanced for both speed and quality.
- Layer height: 0.05 mm
- Normal exposure time: 1.8 – 2.5 seconds (start at 2.2 s and dial in from there)
- Bottom layers: 5 layers
- Bottom exposure time: 25 seconds
- Lift speed: 80 – 120 mm/min
- Lift distance: 6 – 8 mm
- Light-off delay: 0.5 – 1 second
Important: calibration is non-negotiable. Before you commit to that 20-hour print, always run a calibration test like the Cones of Calibration. It's the only reliable way to nail your exact exposure time. Trust me — it'll save you a lot of frustration and wasted resin.
Fast resin — frequently asked questions
Is fast resin more brittle than ABS-Like resin?
Generally, yes. Fast resins are optimised for speed, which makes them very rigid and, as a result, somewhat more brittle than ABS-Like resins, which are specifically formulated for impact resistance.
Can I mix fast resin with standard resin?
In my experience, it's a bad idea. Blending resins with such different chemical compositions is a gamble that usually ends in print failures and unpredictable results. Stick to using each resin with its own dialled-in settings!
Does high speed resin smell stronger?
Not necessarily. In my tests, the smell is very similar to standard resins — it depends more on the specific formula's components than on its speed. That said, remember my golden rule: always print in a well-ventilated area!
Do I need special calibration for fast resin?
Absolutely! It's crucial to run a calibration test to find the exact exposure time for your printer and resin. Tools like our 3D Resin Parameter Calculator are a great place to start.
Conclusion:
In short, high speed resin is a game-changer that's here to stay. It's not the right choice for every project, but when speed is the priority, nothing else comes close. In my workshop, it's become essential for rapid prototyping and batch production. If you have a modern printer, I highly recommend giving it a try — the time savings are absolutely insane!
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