Flexible Resin for 3D Printers: Uses & Best Options That Will Blow Your Mind! 🚀

Hey, maker! Mr Resin here, and today we're diving headfirst into one of the most exciting materials in 3D printing. Ever imagined printing parts that bend, stretch, and shrug off impacts like they're nothing? Stop imagining — because that's exactly what flexible resin delivers. It opens the door to creating objects with the feel and behaviour of rubber or silicone. Let's get into it — I've got you covered!

What is flexible resin and why do you need it in your toolkit?

If you've been in this hobby for a while, you already know that most standard 3D printer resins are great for detail, but leave you with rigid, fairly brittle parts. Sometimes they snap if you just look at them wrong. That's exactly where flexible resin comes in to change the game.

Unlike its rigid counterparts, flexible resin is formulated with special additives called elastomers — and those are what give it that incredible ability to deform and spring back to its original shape. Think of it as a kind of liquid rubber that cures under UV light, but holds onto that elasticity that makes it so unique.

Trust me on this one: once you experience that flexibility, there's no going back. It unlocks a whole world of applications that rigid materials simply can't touch.

Understanding Shore hardness: The key to getting it right

Not all flexible resins are created equal, though. The factor that defines how "soft" or "rubbery" a resin is comes down to its Shore A hardness. It sounds technical, but it's simply a scale that measures how resistant a material is to being indented. Easy concept once you see it in action.

Here are some everyday examples to put it in perspective:

• Low Shore A (20A–40A): Think of the texture of a gummy bear or a super-soft silicone wristband. Maximum flexibility.
• Mid Shore A (50A–70A): This is more like the sole of a trainer or a TPU phone case. Still flexible, but with noticeably more resistance.
• High Shore A (80A–95A): Closer to the hard rubber of a scooter tyre. It'll flex under pressure, but feels quite firm to the touch.

Mr Resin's pro tip! Most flexible resins in our maker world sit in the 80A to 90A range. In my experience, that sweet spot gives you a near-perfect balance between flexibility and printability — ideal for the vast majority of projects.

Getting your head around this is key. Printing a sealing gasket that needs to be really soft to do its job is a completely different brief from printing a barbarian miniature whose axe you don't want snapping on the first drop. Knowing this gives you the power to choose smart. 😉

Practical applications that will blow your mind

Okay, we've covered the theory. Now comes the really fun part: what on earth do you actually use this unique material for? This is where flexible resin for 3D printing truly shines and shows what it's made of. I'm going to share some ideas from projects I've done myself, plus a few brilliant ones I've come across along the way.

Buckle up, because things are about to get bendy! 🤸

Functional prototypes that can take a beating

One of the most powerful applications for elastic resin is prototyping. Before, you had to cross your fingers and hope a flexible part would behave the way you expected. Now you can print it, bend it, squeeze it, and stress-test it in just a few hours.

• Custom gaskets and seals: Need an O-ring in a size that's impossible to find? Just print one! With a low Shore A hardness resin, around 60A or 70A, I get perfect watertight seals for my builds.
• Vibration dampeners and shock absorbers: From simple feet to stop your Raspberry Pi case from rattling, to dampeners for a racing drone. The impact absorption is incredible.
• Handles and protective covers: Tired of your soldering iron slipping? Print yourself an ergonomic handle with a grippy, rubber-like feel. Want to protect your Arduino from a clumsy drop? A flexible case will save it more than once.

Miniatures and wargames that can survive anything

If you're like me and spend hours painting minis, you know that gut-wrenching feeling when a lance or sword snaps from a simple fall. With flexible resin, that heartbreak is a thing of the past! Adding a little of this material to your most fragile parts makes them practically indestructible.

Imagine printing flag poles, horse reins, or dragon wings knowing they'll survive any battle on the tabletop. For this, a hardness of Shore 80A–90A is ideal, as it still delivers an incredible level of detail.

Everyday objects

Rubber-like 3D printing resin isn't just for engineers. The possibilities for making your life easier (and cooler) are endless. Here are a few ideas to get your creative gears turning:

• Custom phone cases.
• Watch straps or wearable bands.
• Custom stamps with your logo.
• Furniture corner protectors (a lifesaver if you have little ones!).

If you need more inspiration, check out my guide on what you can make with a resin 3D printer, where we explore a whole range of ideas.

The best flexible resins I've tested

After seeing everything you can create, you're probably asking the big question: "Mr Resin, which one should I actually buy?" Totally fair. The number of options out there can be overwhelming.

That's exactly why I'm here. I've put together a very personal selection, the result of countless hours of printing. I've tried many, and in our flexible resin catalogue you'll find the ones I genuinely think are the best.

Anycubic Flexible Tough Resin, my Swiss Army knife

If I had to pick just one resin to start with in this space, it would hands-down be the Anycubic Flexible Tough Resin. Why? Because it's a true Swiss Army knife. What I love most is that it strikes a near-perfect balance between flexibility and rigidity, making it useful for almost anything. It sits right around 85–90A Shore hardness.

I've put it to the test making RC car tires and protective covers, and the results have always been outstanding! If you're interested in this brand, check out my guide on the best Anycubic resins for the money.

Other top options you shouldn't overlook

While Anycubic is my go-to for beginners, the market is packed with great alternatives. Brands like Elegoo, for example, are right up there with the best. To make things easier, here's a quick breakdown of other types of flexible resins and how I typically use them:

• Lower durometer resins (Shore 75A-80A): If you need extremely soft parts — like rubber stamps or gaskets — these are the way to go. They take a bit more skill to print, but the results are incredibly stretchy and elastic.
• Water-washable flexible resins: These are a game changer! You can say goodbye to the hassle of isopropyl alcohol. If you value convenience, a water-washable resin will save you a ton of time and cleanup.

Settings and post-processing: how to master flexible resin printing

Printing with flexible resin has its quirks. It's not rocket science, but it does have its own set of rules. Trust me — in my experience, almost every failed print with this material comes down to dialing in the wrong settings. But don't worry, I've got you covered!

The print settings that make all the difference

The real secret is in the slicer. Don't even think about using the same profiles you use for standard hard resins. Here are the three key settings you absolutely need to get right.

• Longer exposure times: Flexible resin needs more UV light to cure properly. As a starting point, I recommend increasing your exposure times by 25% to 50% compared to a standard resin.
• Slower lift speed: This one is crucial! Because it's elastic, the print sticks more aggressively to the FEP film. If the build plate lifts too fast, it creates a suction effect that tears the print right off. Cut your lift speed down to half of what you'd normally use.
• Thicker, denser supports: Forget those thin, lightweight supports. Flexible parts are heavier and prone to warping. You need thicker supports with higher density.

To get started on the right foot, I highly recommend checking out dedicated guides like the one on Anycubic resin settings — it's an incredibly useful reference.

The art of post-processing without killing the flexibility

You're almost there! The print is done, but the work isn't over yet. Poor curing can ruin everything.

My golden rule: cure your print in short bursts. Over-cure it and the part will turn stiff — goodbye elasticity. Under-cure it and it'll be tacky and weak.

This is the method that never fails me:

1. Cleaning: Give your print a thorough wash as usual.
2. Support removal: Do this before the final cure! While the print is still slightly soft, supports come off much more easily.
3. Curing in intervals: Place your print in the curing station for 1 minute. Take it out, check the flexibility, and repeat in short bursts until the surface is no longer tacky. Patience is everything here!

The community trick: mix your own semi-flexible resin

Here's something that's been an open secret among experienced resin printers for a while. Did you know you don't have to stick with whatever properties come in the bottle? You can formulate your own semi-flexible resin blend — and it's far easier than you might think.

Sometimes you don't need something super rubbery — you just want a print that can take a knock without snapping. Think about those miniatures with ultra-thin swords. The solution is adding a bit of extra toughness to your standard resin.

How does this alchemy actually work?

The logic is straightforward: mix a small amount of flexible resin (between 10% and 15%) into your standard resin. That small addition changes the material's structure, making it significantly less brittle.

My step-by-step method for a successful blend

Here's exactly how I do it:

1. Measure precisely: Use a precision scale or syringes to get exact amounts. For example: 10g of flexible resin + 90g of standard resin.
2. Stick to the same brand: Try to mix resins from the same manufacturer (Anycubic with Anycubic, Elegoo with Elegoo, etc.). It's not a hard rule, but it gives you much better compatibility.
3. Shake it well: Pour both resins into an empty, opaque bottle. Seal it tightly and shake for a couple of minutes.
4. Let it settle: Leave the mixture to rest for 10–15 minutes so any air bubbles can escape.
5. Dial in your exposure settings: This is important! Your new blend has different properties. You'll almost certainly need to increase exposure times slightly. Always run a calibration test first.

This trick is a game-changer for giving your miniatures extra durability. If you want to give it a go, take a look at our full resin catalogue to find the perfect combination. Time to experiment!

Flexible resin FAQ

Here are the answers to the most common questions I get about flexible resin. Straight questions, clear answers — just how makers like it. Let's dive in!

Can I use flexible resin in any resin 3D printer?

Absolutely yes! Any LCD/MSLA resin 3D printer — including popular models from Anycubic or Elegoo — can handle flexible resin. The machine itself isn't the limiting factor; what really matters is dialling in your settings. The real difference-maker is fine-tuning your slicer parameters: exposure times, lift speeds… It's all about the software, not the hardware!

Does flexible resin lose its properties over time?

Great question! Like almost all polymers, it is affected by time — especially UV light and heat. That's why it's crucial not to over-cure your prints. To keep that elasticity going strong, store your parts in a cool, dark place. In my experience, for everyday use the durability is impressive and your prints will last for years.

Is it harder to remove supports from flexible prints?

Honestly, it can be a little trickier. But as always, I've got a tip up my sleeve. Set your support tips slightly thicker and, most importantly, remove them before the final cure. If they're stubborn, soak the part in warm water (not boiling!) for about a minute. This softens them just enough to pop right off. Patience and a little know-how go a long way!

Conclusion: Bring Flexibility to Your Projects!

And that's a wrap, maker! As you've seen, flexible resin for 3D printing isn't just another material — it's a total game-changer that opens the door to a whole world of projects that simply weren't possible before. From functional parts that can take a beating, to miniatures that survive the occasional drop.

I've tried to share my best tips and tricks, built up through hours and hours of printing. Now it's your turn to grab a bottle, start experimenting, and take your creations to the next level. Don't be afraid to try mixing resins!

I hope this guide has been super helpful. If you want to explore more, head over to the store and check out the full range of resins available. There's a whole world of possibilities waiting for you!