🎨 Complete guide on how to paint orks for a brutal Waaagh!

Getting your orks to have a brutal finish is easier than it seems. And I'm going to let you in on a secret: the trick isn't just in the brush, but in properly preparing the miniature. If you dedicate time to this phase, you ensure the paint adheres as it should and your figures look spectacular on the gaming table. For every scar and every rivet to look great, it's essential to start with quality resins for 3D printers that capture every last detail.

How to prepare your orks for a perfect finish

A top-notch paint job starts long before you open the first pot of paint. In fact, this preparation phase is the most important step for achieving a professional and lasting finish. If, like me, you print your own orks in 3D, this step is even more critical. The final result will depend entirely on how you treat the miniature fresh out of the printer.

The quality of the figure is tied to the resin. For every scar, every rivet, and every detail of that rough armor we love so much to look great, it's essential to start with a high-definition resin. This type of material is designed to bring out minuscule details with incredible precision, giving you a perfect canvas to paint on.

Cleaning and curing the miniature

Alright, you've got your ork printed. The first thing is to clean it thoroughly to remove any liquid resin residue that hasn't cured. If you use a water-washable resin, you save yourself a lot of hassle and fumes.

• Remove the supports: Using fine flush cutters, carefully remove the supports. A golden tip: do it before the final curing. The resin is slightly softer at this stage, and you'll avoid leaving those horrible marks that need sanding later.
• Give it a good bath: Submerge it in isopropyl alcohol (IPA) or water, depending on the resin, and with an old soft toothbrush, scrub to reach all the nooks and crannies.
• The final curing: Once dry, give it a UV light bath. You can use a curing station or, if it's a nice day, leave it in the sun. Watch out! Don't overdo the time or the miniature will become brittle and fragile.

As you can see, the key is: clean, assemble, and finally, prime. This is the foundation for getting the paint to adhere properly and achieving an impeccable final result.

Assembly and fixing imperfections

If your ork comes in pieces, now is the time to put them together. Cyanoacrylate glue (good old Super Glue) works wonderfully for a strong and fast bond. Sometimes, when removing supports or due to the printing process itself, small marks or gaps are left behind. Don't worry, there's an easy fix.

Veteran's tip: To fill those small gaps, I use liquid putty, like Vallejo's Plastic Putty. There's also a handy home remedy: a mix of cyanoacrylate and baking soda. Apply it carefully, let it dry, and then a gentle pass with fine sandpaper to leave the surface as smooth as a baby's bottom.

If you want to nail the printing process and produce perfect figures, take a look at our guide on how to print 3D miniatures. Now that your miniature is clean, assembled, and flaw-free, you're ready for the next big step: priming.

The color foundation for a believable orc skin

Now that your orc is clean and ready for action, the moment of truth arrives: priming. Don't skip this step. It's the foundation on which you'll build the entire paint job, the anchor that ensures the paint adheres properly and doesn't chip off at the first opportunity. Moreover, the color you choose for priming will completely determine the final tone of the miniature.

Which primer should I choose?

There's no single answer — it all depends on the style you're going for. Here are my three favorites and what I use each one for:

• Black primer: The classic, the one that never fails, especially if you're just starting out. Black seeps into every nook and cranny and creates natural shadows almost automatically. It forgives many mistakes and hard-to-reach areas are already shaded from the base. A real bargain.
• Grey primer: My go-to option for almost everything. It's the perfect middle ground. It doesn't dull colors like black does, but it gives you a neutral base on which any tone — from a bright yellow to a dark blue — will work brilliantly.
• Zenithal primer: This is a pro trick that delivers spectacular results. First, prime the entire figure in black. Then, with a white or light grey spray, give it a pass from above only, as if sunlight were hitting it directly. This creates a map of lights and shadows before you apply the first brushstroke. It's an incredible visual guide.

A good primer spray, such as those from Vallejo, leaves a matte and slightly porous finish that is ideal for acrylic paints to grip onto. Remember: apply it at around 20–30 cm away and in short bursts so you don't flood the details.

The iconic orc green (and how to achieve it)

Now we're talking — let's get to it! Time to bring that skin to life. Achieving a shade of green that feels believable and has depth is what will take your orc from a lump of plastic to a fearsome beast.

It's no secret that the Vallejo Game Color range is the go-to for this. To begin, apply the base color. The key is to apply two thin coats rather than one thick one. Thin the paint with a small drop of water on the palette so it flows better and doesn't obscure the muscles and wrinkles of the figure. If you want to dive deeper into the topic, we have a complete guide on how to use Vallejo Game Color to paint resin prints 🎨.

So you don't get lost, here's a handy little "cheat sheet" with color schemes that work brilliantly for me.

Recommended color schemes for orc skin

This table is a practical guide with Vallejo paint combinations to achieve different finishes on your orcs' skin. Experiment with them!

Don't limit yourself to these recipes. They are an excellent starting point, but the fun part is mixing and experimenting until you find the tone you like most for your clan.

Once you have the base layer fully dry, it's time to add volume with shadows and highlights, but we'll cover that in the next section.

Shading and highlighting techniques to bring your miniature to life

Right, your ork already has its base colors applied. The figure is painted, yes, but it's missing soul. Right now it looks flat, lifeless, like a simple colored silhouette. This is where the real magic of painting begins: we're going to give it volume, depth, and make every muscle, every armor rivet, and every fold of clothing leap to the eye.

This is the step that makes the difference between a miniature that is "colored" and one that looks like it's about to jump off the base. To achieve this, we'll rely on two key techniques: washing to create shadows and drybrushing or edge highlighting to bring out the lights.

Washing to create shadows and depth

A wash is nothing more than a very, very diluted paint, almost like an ink, that we apply generously. The trick lies in capillary action: the ink flows on its own and pools in all the recesses and crevices of the figure. This creates natural shadows incredibly quickly and super effectively, ideal for defining an ork's musculature or the creases in fabric.

Personally, for this I'm a big fan of Vallejo's Xpress Color inks from Vallejo. Although they are designed as "speed paints" to apply base color and shadow in a single pass over light primer, they work wonderfully as a traditional wash over a color we've already applied.

The process is straightforward:

• Load the brush with the ink, making sure it's well saturated but not dripping. A medium brush usually works perfectly.
• Apply the ink to the area, such as skin or clothing. Don't drag the brush as if you were painting — simply let the ink flow and settle into the recesses.
• Control the excess. If you see a very large pool forming on a flat surface, clean the brush, dampen it slightly and use it to remove the excess. This will help you avoid unsightly stains when it dries.

A tip for orc skin: over a green base coat, a dark green ink like Vallejo 72.089 works great. But if you're going for a dirtier, more realistic finish, try a dark brown ink like 72.092. It will give an earthy touch that suits these creatures perfectly.

Now, patience. Let the washing dry completely. We're talking at least 30-40 minutes. If you try to paint over it before it's ready, you'll only end up disturbing the ink and ruining the effect.

Dry brushing to bring out textures

The dry brushing technique is your best ally for bringing out rough textures. Think leather, wood, fur or rusted metal. It's a very intuitive, quick technique with spectacular results.

Grab an old brush — one of those with stiff, splayed bristles that you no longer use for precision work. The process is a piece of cake:

1. Dip the tip of the brush into a little paint (a lighter colour than the base coat).
2. Now, remove almost all the paint onto a piece of kitchen paper. Wipe until the brush barely leaves a trace of pigment.
3. Quickly and lightly drag the brush across the surface of the miniature.

You'll see how that minimal amount of paint only catches on the edges and the most raised areas, instantly creating a light and texture effect. It's a "dirty" trick but an incredibly effective one.

Edge highlighting for a clean finish

If dry brushing is the quick and "dirty" technique, edge highlighting is the complete opposite: precision, control and a clean finish. It consists, essentially, of painting a very thin line with a lighter colour right on the edges and ridges of the miniature.

It's the perfect technique for defining the edges of weapons, the rims of armour or any mechanical piece that needs to look sharp and defined.

For this, you'll need a fine brush (a nº0 or nº1) with a good tip. Thin the paint slightly so it flows better and — here's the trick — try using the side of the bristles instead of the tip to draw the lines. By sliding the side of the brush along the edge, you'll gain a level of control and fineness that is much harder to achieve with the tip.

By combining these techniques, you'll see how your orcs go from being flat figures to having incredible volume and realism. Go ahead and give it a try — you'll be amazed at the difference!

Bring your orc to life with battle damage and weathering effects

The details are what truly tell the story of your orc. Now let's get down to business with those touches of realism that take a miniature from being a painted figure to a warrior with a thousand battles behind them. I'll show you how to create convincing rust on armour and weapons, using both specific paints and pigments.

Rust and chipping for a battle-hardened look

Let's be honest, a self-respecting ork doesn't go around wearing spotless armour. Rust and paint chipping are relatively straightforward effects that completely transform any metallic piece.

To simulate rust, you have several tricks up your sleeve:

• Effect paints: Products like Dry Rust from the Vallejo Effects range are absolutely brilliant. It's a paint with body that, applied with an old brush into crevices or around rivets, creates a very natural corrosion effect.
• Washing: A simple wash in orange or reddish-brown tones over the metal is already enough to create a very convincing sense of early-stage rust. Don't worry about applying it perfectly; irregularity is your ally.
• Pigments: If you're looking for rust with texture, pigments are the key. Mix a little rust-coloured pigment with water or a specific pigment binder and apply it with a brush. Once dry, it leaves that powdery, realistic finish we love so much.

Achieving the chipping effect is almost child's play. Grab a small piece of blister packaging foam with tweezers, dab it into a dark brown or black, and offload almost all the paint onto a piece of paper. Then, lightly dab the edges of the armour. Repeat the process with a metallic colour, but this time use less paint and focus more on top of the dark patches. Voilà! The paint will look like it's been chipped away by blows.

Blood, mud and grime everywhere

No ork comes out clean from a good fight. Adding a little dirt or blood gives the figure a brutal sense of drama and context.

For blood, stay away from pure, bright red — it looks very artificial. Coagulated blood is much darker. Citadel's Blood for the Blood God is a classic for a reason: its glossy finish and tone are spot on. For splatter effects, take a stiff-bristled brush, pull the bristles back with a toothpick and snap them forward towards the mini.

Watch out with the blood! Here, less is more. A few strategic splashes on the edge of an axe or on a fist are infinitely more effective than bathing the entire figure. The goal is to suggest, not to stage a massacre.

And for mud, nothing beats texture pastes. Vallejo's options, like European Mud, are fantastic. You can apply them directly to boots, the lower part of the trousers or the shield. Not only will it give your ork the look of having crossed a battlefield, but it will also integrate perfectly with the base we'll be working on later. With these details, your ability to paint orks will reach a whole new level.

The finishing touches: thematic bases and varnishing

A spectacular miniature isn't complete until it has a base that anchors it to its world. Think about it: the base isn't just a simple support, it's a small scene that tells the story of your ork. Is it stomping across a muddy battlefield, the metal floor of a battlewagon or the ruins of an imperial city? You decide the storyline!

Creating thematic bases that tell a story

Making a base that looks amazing is much easier than you think. Vallejo texture pastes, for example, are incredible for creating dirt, sand or asphalt surfaces in just minutes. All you need to do is apply the paste with a spatula, let it dry and go at it with a base color, a good ink wash and a dry brush to make the details pop. Magic!

For an extra touch of realism, you can rely on classics that never fail:

• Electrostatic grass: Ideal for simulating grass. A little PVA glue, sprinkle on top and you're done.
• Cork: Break cork pieces to create rocks or building rubble. A cheap trick with stunning results.
• Plastic or metal scraps: Don't throw away the sprues from other minis. Those little bits of plastic or some wire are perfect for simulating scrap metal and giving it that authentic orky touch.

If you want to dive deeper into this, on our blog we have a complete guide on how to create a desert terrain base with Vallejo Diorama FX that will give you more ideas than you know what to do with.

Varnish: the protective shield for your work

You've spent hours working on your miniature. Now comes the last step, and trust me, it's one of the most important ones: protecting it. Varnish is that invisible shield that will defend the paint from finger friction, bumps on the gaming table and the simple passage of time. Skipping it is the typical beginner mistake that ends up causing headaches.

Bear in mind that not all varnishes are the same. The finish you choose is key and can completely change the look of the mini:

• Matte Varnish: Your best friend for skin, clothing and wood. It eliminates any shine and leaves a natural, super realistic finish.
• Satin Varnish: The perfect middle ground. Great for leather armor or metals that you don't want looking either flat or like a disco ball.
• Gloss Varnish: Save it for very specific details like gems, puddles, fresh blood or viscous parts that need that wet effect.

The rise of 3D printing has skyrocketed interest in the hobby and more and more people are valuing quality in their projects, from the resin they print with to that final varnish that protects everything. If you're interested in the topic, you can learn more about 3D printing market trends here.

FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions when painting orks

Even the most seasoned painter has doubts mid-project. It's normal! Here are the answers to those typical questions we all ask ourselves when painting orks, based on pure workshop experience. Straight to the point, so you can get past any hurdle and keep your WAAAGH! going strong!

Do I need lots of brushes to start painting?

Not at all! Don't go crazy buying everything. To get started, three brushes is all you need:

• A medium brush (size 2) for base coats. It will be your workhorse.
• A finer one (size 0 or 1) for those details that make all the difference.
• An old, beaten-up brush you don't mind destroying for drybrushing.

Brands like Artis Opus or Vallejo have great ranges for every budget. The crucial thing isn't the brand, but that you take care of them and clean them well after each session.

I've messed up! How do I fix a brushstroke where it shouldn't be?

Don't panic, it happens to all of us. If the paint is still wet, a clean, damp brush (not soaking wet!) is your best friend. Run it gently over the mistake to remove it.

If it has already dried, the simplest and cleanest solution is to paint over it with the original base colour. Let it dry thoroughly and start that section again. Trying to scrape off dried paint almost always ends badly — you can take the underlying layers with it and create a bigger problem.

How long do I wait between coats?

Patience is a painter's virtue. Acrylic paints, like those from Vallejo, usually dry to the touch in 5 to 15 minutes, depending on humidity and how thinned down the paint is.

That said, a golden tip: if you're going to apply a wash or an ink, give it a longer rest. Wait at least 30 minutes. This ensures the layer underneath is completely cured and won't reactivate, mixing together and ruining the effect. If you're in a hurry, a hairdryer on low heat and at a distance can help, but be careful not to melt the plastic.

Airbrush or brush? Which is better for my orks?

The right answer is: why choose? Combining both is what will give you the best results and save you time.

The airbrush is a marvel for priming and applying base colours super quickly and evenly, especially if you're painting an entire horde. It leaves a perfectly smooth finish to work on top of.

But the brush is irreplaceable. For details, edge highlights, deeper shadows, and ultimately for giving the miniature character and life, nothing beats a good brush. Most of us who paint at a high level use the airbrush for the "rough" work and the brush for the final artistry.

Conclusion

In short, painting orks is a rewarding process that goes far beyond applying a coat of green. From preparation and priming, through applying base colours, shadows and highlights, to weathering effects and a good base, every step is an opportunity to improve and tell a story.

Now it's your turn to pick up the brushes and put these techniques into practice. Remember that the key is to experiment and enjoy the process. If you need supplies for your next project, head over to the store.

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✨¡Happy Printing! 🚀