🎲 Guide to creating your own miniature board games with 3D printing 🛠️

Board game miniatures printed on a resin 3D printer - Mr Resin

Miniature board games are having an incredible moment, and 3D printing is the secret ingredient taking this hobby to the next level. 🤩 If you've ever dreamed of customizing your army, creating a hero from scratch, or simply replacing that piece that mysteriously went missing, you've come to the right place.

Thanks to resin technology, it's now more affordable than ever to produce figures with a level of detail that will leave you speechless.

How 3D printing is revolutionizing board games

A 3D printer producing a detailed miniature, surrounded by various painted and unpainted board game figures on shelves and a table.

Let's be clear: the boom in miniature board games in Spain is very real. What was once a niche world is now a hobby that hooks thousands of people. And in the middle of all this, 3D printing has gone from being something out of science fiction to becoming the best ally for any dedicated gamer. 🚀

This growth surged especially after the pandemic, when many of us rediscovered the joy of more hands-on, creative hobbies. Suddenly, the idea of not just playing, but actually creating your own game components, opened up a universe of possibilities. You no longer have to settle for the figures that come in the box; now the only limit is your imagination.

A hobby that keeps on growing

Interest in wargames and scale modeling has been one of the key driving forces. A market study from 2020 was already showing strong signs, revealing that Spanish board game and miniature publishers generated 261 million euros in revenue. And while minis only accounted for 6% of their catalogs, their pull among the most dedicated hobbyists continues to grow. If you're curious, you can take a look at this detailed market analysis.

This only confirms what many of us already knew: players are looking for more than just a game. They want an immersive experience and, above all, a personal one. They want their armies, their heroes, and their dungeons to be one of a kind. ⚔️

The real magic happens when that character you designed and printed yourself steps onto the board for the very first time. It's a connection that no pre-made figure can match. ✨

Customization within everyone's reach

3D printing has democratized creation, plain and simple. In the past, designing a miniature meant knowing how to sculpt and dealing with the hassle of extremely expensive molds. Today, with a good resin printer and access to thousands of STL files (many of them free), you can bring almost anything you can think of to life.

This opens up a whole world of possibilities:

  • Creating proxies: Is that character from your favorite game impossible to find or way out of your budget? Print your own version and get playing.
  • Designing custom components: From themed tokens and markers to spectacular scenery that will leave your friends amazed.
  • Modifying and adapting figures: You can change the scale of a model, add new weapons, or alter the pose so it fits perfectly with what you have in mind.

In short, 3D printing turns you into the creative director of your own adventures, transforming every game session into something that is truly yours.

Choose your kit for high-definition miniatures

Getting into the world of 3D printing for your tabletop game miniatures might seem like a tangle of cables and resins, but I promise it's simpler than it looks. 🛠️ The key is knowing what you need so your figures can shine on the table with a level of detail that leaves everyone speechless.

Resin technology (SLA/DLP/MSLA) has come on in leaps and bounds. What used to be the domain of industrial labs is now something we have at home with printers reaching resolutions of 8K, 12K and even 14K.

But what does all this mean in practice? Think of it this way: each "K" indicates how many pixels the LCD screen that solidifies the resin has. More pixels in the same space translates into sharper details and smoother surfaces. With a 12K printer, a 28mm miniature can show the texture of a cloak or the scars on a warrior's face — details that a lower-resolution machine would simply miss.

The ideal 3D printer for your figures

Don't get carried away by resolution numbers alone; balance is the key. There are other equally important factors when choosing your machine.

Keep an eye on these points:

  • Build plate size: If you're only going to print individual heroes, a small plate is more than enough. But if your plan is to build an army or print scenery, you'll need a printer with a good build volume.
  • Print speed: Printers with a monochrome screen cure layers at lightning speed, meaning you'll have more figures ready in less time.
  • Ease of use: Look for models with a clear interface, straightforward calibration, and a community behind them to give you a hand. Brands like Elegoo or Anycubic are well known for this.

A great starting point is an 8K or 12K printer. It offers a fantastic balance between detail, speed, and price, making it one of the community's favourites. To learn more about which model suits you, you can check out our complete guide on resin 3D printers.

Resin makes all the difference

If the printer is the brush, the resin is the paint. The type you choose will directly affect the final detail, how well your miniatures hold up on the gaming table, and how straightforward the post-processing is. Every resin has its own trick.

So you don't get lost, we've put together this comparison table. It's the perfect cheat sheet for knowing which resin suits you best depending on the project you have on the go. 📝

Resin comparison for tabletop game miniatures

This table helps you choose the right resin based on the detail, durability, and post-processing ease requirements for your miniatures.

Resin Type Main Advantages Ideal For Product Example
Standard Affordable and easy to use. Great for getting started and achieving decent detail. 👍 Prototypes, terrain, and miniatures that don't require extreme durability. Anycubic Standard Resin+
ABS-Like Much more durable and flexible than standard resin. Handles drops and in-game use far better. 💪 Gaming figures, mechanical parts, and any miniature that will be handled frequently. Elegoo ABS-Like Resin 2.0
Water-Washable Easy to clean without the need for isopropyl alcohol. Less odorous. 💧 Projects where ease of post-processing is a priority — ideal for beginners. Anycubic Water-Wash Resin+
High Definition (8K/14K) Formulated to capture the finest possible detail with high-resolution 3D printers. 💎 Display miniatures, characters with intricate fine detail, and complex sculptures. Mr Resin 14K Ultra

As you can see, there's no single "best" resin for everything — only the ideal resin for each type of miniature. Think about how you'll be using it and you'll make the right choice.

Choosing the right combination of 3D printer and resin is the first major step toward bringing your armies to life. 🚀

Turn a digital file into a real figure

The journey from an STL file to a physical miniature on your gaming table is at the heart of this hobby. 🖥️➡️🤖 For the final result to achieve the level of detail you're looking for, everything starts with high-resolution files, properly prepared for your resin 3D printer.

Even before opening your slicer software, take a good look at the model. Does the orientation make sense? Does the size fit? Make sure the scale is consistent with your game to avoid any unpleasant surprises.

And speaking of scale... it's a crucial topic. Nobody wants a tiny hero standing next to a giant orc that should be the same size. 28 mm and 32 mm scales are the most common standards in wargames and role-playing games, making them a safe bet. If your model doesn't come at that scale, adjust it directly in the slicer to maintain visual harmony on the board.

Where to find quality STL files

Luckily, we're living in a golden age for 3D files. There are countless specialist sites packed with both free and paid models. Platforms like Thingiverse, MyMiniFactory, and Cults are a great starting point, with huge collections you can filter by theme or licence type.

The great thing about using well-known sources is that you can be sure you're downloading models tested by the community, which will save you a lot of headaches and failed prints. If you don't want to spend money at first, take a look at our selection of the 21 best websites for free STL files to find reliable designs at no cost.

This is, in broad strokes, the path your idea takes from screen to becoming a hero on the table.

3D printing process flowchart showing the 3D printer, resin, and final figure.

As you can see, everything is connected. Good initial preparation is key to avoid wasting resin or time on failed prints.

The art of orientation and supports in the slicer

Here's a golden tip I've learned through trial and error, especially in programs like Chitubox or Lychee: tilt the miniature between 30° and 45°. Why? Because it reduces support marks on visible areas and improves layer adhesion. This tilt decreases tension on the lower layers and, trust me, makes removing the supports much easier later on.

Some practical tips that will save more than one print:

  • Place supports on any overhang larger than 1 mm.
  • Use thin diameters, between 0.5 mm and 0.8 mm, for contact points. You'll save resin and the marks will be minimal.
  • Set support density to 10–20%. It's the perfect balance between solid support and easy cleanup.

In addition to supports, consider hollowing out larger figures. Not only will you use less resin (up to 30% less!), but you'll also speed up curing. Just remember to add drainage holes so the liquid resin inside can escape.

Recommended print settings to get started

Every resin and every 3D printer has its quirks, but these parameters are an excellent starting point for miniatures.

  1. Layer height: 0.05 mm is a good standard for achieving great detail without making the print take forever.
  2. Exposure times: For monochrome screens, aim for 6 to 8 seconds per layer.
  3. Anti-aliasing: Enable it! It smooths edges and curves, eliminating the "staircase" effect.
  4. Z-lift distance: Around 5 mm is usually enough to separate the piece from the FEP without creating too much suction.

With these settings, your miniatures will come out of the 3D printer ready for clean post-processing and with an almost professional finish. Now that the figure is printed, the fun part begins: preparing it and bringing it to life with paint.

Give your miniatures the professional finish they deserve

Taking the piece out of the 3D printer is just the beginning of the journey. Trust me, post-processing is what separates a good print from a spectacular miniature, worthy of any **miniature board game** table. It's the "dirty" work that truly brings your creations to life and makes them shine. ✨

When the printer sounds its final beep, the figure comes out sticky, covered in liquid resin. Now it's time to give it a good bath to reveal all those details you struggled with supports and settings to achieve.

Thorough cleaning and support removal

To clean the pieces, you have two main options: the classic isopropyl alcohol (IPA) or, if you've chosen a specific resin, simply water. IPA is the tried-and-true method and never fails — it dissolves uncured resin brilliantly. If you want to simplify the process as much as possible, a washing and curing station like the Anycubic Wash & Cure 3.0 automates the whole thing and saves you a lot of headaches.

On the other hand, water-washable resins are a fantastic alternative if you want to avoid fumes and handling stronger chemicals. A simple water bath with gentle agitation, and you're done.

After cleaning, comes the delicate moment: removing the supports. Patience and a pair of fine-cut nippers are your best allies. The trick is not to cut flush, but to leave a millimeter and then gently sand down that small mark that remains.

My golden tip: remove the supports before fully curing the piece. At this point, the resin is slightly softer, which greatly reduces the risk of taking a chunk of the miniature with you when pulling off the support. 👍

UV curing for rock-solid hardness

Once clean and free of supports, your miniature needs a good UV session. The final curing is what fully hardens the resin, giving it the strength it needs to withstand gaming sessions. A curing station with a rotating platform is ideal, as it ensures the UV light reaches every last corner.

How long do we leave it? It depends a lot on the resin and the size of the figure, but here is a quick guide:

  • Small pieces (28-32mm): Usually, 2 to 5 minutes is more than enough.
  • Larger or solid pieces: They may need up to 10-15 minutes to cure properly on the inside.

But watch out for overcuring! Overcuring can make the resin become brittle and even cause it to yellow.

Final touches: repair and preparation

Even being the most careful person in the world, sometimes small support marks or minor imperfections remain. Don't panic, it is completely normal and easy to fix. With a two-part epoxy putty, such as the classic Green Stuff, you can fill any gap or rebuild details that may have been lost.

Once the putty is dry, a gentle sanding with fine-grit sandpaper will leave the surface smooth as silk, ready for the next step. This final pass is key to ensuring your board game miniatures have a flawless base before moving on to the most fun part: painting! 🎨

Paint your miniatures and bring them to life on the board

Close-up of hands painting a game miniature with a brush and colors on a palette.

And now, we reach my favorite part: the moment to add color and personality to your creations. 🎨 Painting your board game miniatures is what gives them soul and turns them into unique pieces that will tell epic stories on the board.

With the figure already clean, cured and with a perfect surface, the canvas is ready. And no, don't be scared if you have never picked up a brush. With a few basic techniques, the results you can achieve will surprise you.

Priming: the foundation of a great paint job

Never, and I mean never, underestimate the power of a good primer coat. This step is absolutely crucial. The primer creates a matte, uniform surface that paint will grip like glue. Trying to paint directly onto the resin is a recipe for disaster; the color will not adhere well and will chip at the slightest touch.

You can use spray primer, which is the most convenient option, or apply it with an airbrush if you have one. The most common colors are neutral tones such as black, white, or gray, and each one has its own trick:

  • Black: Ideal for dark color schemes. The best part is that it automatically creates natural shadows for you, saving you a ton of work!
  • White: Makes the colors you apply on top shine and look much more vibrant. It's perfect for bright figures or those with very vivid tones.
  • Grey: A fantastic middle ground that works beautifully with almost any color palette. It's my default choice most of the time.

The secret is to apply it in very thin coats and at a sensible distance. You don't want to cover up all those details that took you so long to print.

Essential painting techniques for beginners

Once the primer is dry, the real fun begins. With just three basic techniques, you can take your miniatures from a plain piece of plastic to a hero or monster full of character.

  1. Base Colors: This is all about applying the main colors of your figure. Paint each area with its corresponding color: silver armor, orc-green skin, a deep red tunic... A golden tip: it's always better to apply two thin coats than one thick, gloopy one.
  2. Washes (Shades): Washes are highly diluted paints that seep into every nook and cranny of the miniature. It's almost like magic. When applied, they darken crevices and folds, creating shadows and depth in a super simple way. A dark wash over metallic armor will make every rivet and joint stand out instantly.
  3. Drybrushing: This technique is king when it comes to highlighting raised details. Load a little paint onto an old brush, wipe off almost all of the excess on a piece of kitchen paper, then lightly drag it across the figure. The tiny amount of paint left will deposit only on the edges and textures, like the folds of a cloak or the edge of a sword.

Trust me, the combination of these three techniques is the foundation of 90% of the miniature painting work you see out there. Master them, and a whole world of possibilities will open up for your tabletop miniature games.

A universe of color and textures at your fingertips

The market for acrylic modelling paints is enormous, but brands like Vallejo are an industry standard thanks to their quality and color range. Their Game Color line is perfect for getting started. If you feel like trying something more advanced, Xpress Color lets you achieve shading and highlighting effects with a single coat — absolutely incredible!

If you want to dive deeper into this topic, I recommend taking a look at our guide on how to use Vallejo Game Color to paint your resin prints.

Finally, don't forget the base! Good basing is what truly integrates the miniature into its world. You can use texture pastes, static grass, small rocks, or tufts to create a mini diorama that completes the story. An orc on a rocky base will always look cooler than one sitting on a plain black plastic disc. 🌲🪨

Conclusion:

And with that, we've reached the end of our journey. We've covered the entire process, from the moment you decide which 3D printer and resin to buy, all the way to that final, proud brushstroke on your figure. This isn't just theory anymore — you now have a complete roadmap to take your tabletop games to the next level. 🚀

No more depending on the figures that come in the box. The power to bring unique characters to life, entire armies that will tell your own stories on the board, is literally in your hands. This goes beyond a hobby: it's pure and simple creativity.

So you have everything you need for this adventure, we invite you to visit our online store at Mr Resin. There you'll find everything from high-definition resins to the best paints and tools. We have it all to bring your projects to life!

But this doesn't end here, not by a long shot. The best part of this world is sharing it. That's why we want you to join our makers community in our Telegram group to access exclusive community discounts and deals, as well as coupons, news and exclusive events. It's the perfect place to show off your creations and get answers from fellow members. 💬

Oh, and don't forget to subscribe to our Newsletter. That way you'll also be the first to hear about all the latest news, coupons and events we organise. We'll be waiting for you! 💌

Answering beginner questions

When you get into this world, it's normal to have a ton of questions. It's happened to all of us. Here are some straight answers to the most common questions so you can start printing your board game miniatures on the right foot. 🤔

Which 3D printer should I buy to get started?

If you're just starting out, look for a machine that's good, good-looking and affordable, but above all, easy to use. My personal recommendation is to take a look at models like the Elegoo Mars or the Anycubic Photon Mono.

These are two fantastic workhorses for getting started. They give you incredible resolution for highly detailed miniatures, and you won't go crazy trying to configure them. Plus, they have huge user communities behind them, so if you get stuck, there will always be someone on a forum or Facebook group willing to lend a hand.

Can I use any resin for my minis?

Well, you can use almost any of them, but the results vary enormously. If you're after obsessive detail for display pieces, 8K or 14K resins are incredible — they capture even the tiniest wrinkle.

Now, if your minis are going to see table time and take the wear and tear of gaming sessions, I'd recommend without hesitation an ABS-Like resin. They're more flexible and hold up better against knocks. Your orc will fall off the table and most likely survive to fight another day.

Is painting miniatures very complicated?

Not at all! Don't be intimidated by the brushes — they don't bite. It's far more accessible than it seems. As long as you learn three basic techniques — base coats, a good washing to add shadows, and a touch of dry brushing to highlight the edges — you'll already be getting results that will surprise you.

The most important thing is that you have fun and enjoy the process of watching a grey figure come to life. That's what gets you hooked! 🎨

And how do I store all this material?

Liquid resin is delicate. Always store it in its original bottle, which is opaque, and in a cool, dark place. No sunlight whatsoever! ☀️

For miniatures you've already printed and painted, a display cabinet is ideal for showing them off and protecting them from dust. If not, a foam-lined storage box of the kind used to transport armies is perfect for keeping them safe from knocks and scratches. That way you can make sure your work lasts for years.

✨Happy Printing! 🚀