The dry brush technique for miniatures is one of those aces up your sleeve that every painter, beginner or veteran, should master. It is an incredibly effective method that involves using a brush with a minimal amount of paint to bring all the raised details and textures of a figure to life. 🤩
It is one of the fastest and most effective ways to add depth and realism to your creations, and it is perfect for both your first marines and the dragon that has been staring at you from the shelf for months.
🤔 What dry brushing is and why it will change your miniatures
If you have ever looked at a miniature and wondered how on earth they managed to make the rivets on a suit of armor, the skin of an orc, or the fur of a beast look so real and three-dimensional, the dry brush technique is most likely to blame. 🎨
Far from being an arcane magic trick, it is a super intuitive and fast approach that brings out volumes and textures with almost no effort. In this guide we are going to break down the technique, so you can see why it has become a go-to resource, both for Warhammer players and for those who have just printed their first hero with a resin for 3D printers.
The magic is in the simplicity
The concept could not be simpler: you dip the brush in paint and, right after, you offload almost all of the pigment onto a piece of kitchen paper or a textured palette. Your brush, which is now practically dry, will only leave a trace of color on the highest parts of the miniature when you gently drag it across the surface.
With this simple gesture, you create highlights and reflections almost automatically. It is an ideal technique for:
- ✨ Enhancing complex textures: Fur, rocks, chainmail, or weathered metals. Anything with raised detail will instantly pop.
- ⏱️ Speeding up painting: You achieve stunning results in far less time than it would take to edge-highlight every detail by hand.
- 💸 Saving paint: By using such a small amount, your pots of paint will last you forever.
In short, dry brushing is like cheating, but the good kind. It allows you to reach a level of detail that would otherwise require hours of painstaking, exhausting work. It is the finishing touch that sets a great-looking mini apart from one that leaves people with their jaw on the floor.
Much more than a beginner technique
Although its reputation comes from how easy it is to get started, the dry brush technique for miniatures hides a depth that will surprise you. More experienced painters squeeze it in super creative ways: they combine it with washes, glazes, and other methods to achieve effects like rust, weathering, or even to simulate zenithal lighting (light coming from above).
You will soon discover that this method not only saves you time and money, but takes the quality of your projects to another level entirely. It transforms flat, lifeless surfaces into pieces with character, making every detail of your resin print count. Get ready, because the way you paint is about to change. 😉
💪 The arsenal for mastering drybrushing
To nail the drybrushing technique on miniatures, you don't have to mortgage your house. That said, the difference between a finish that leaves people speechless and one that's simply "alright" usually comes down to the tools you choose. 🖌️
But don't worry, putting together your combat kit is simpler and more affordable than it looks. Let's go over the essentials so you can start bringing out textures and highlights as if you've been doing it your whole life.
Brushes: your main weapons
The brush is the absolute star of this story. For drybrushing you need one that can take a beating, with firm bristles that won't give up at the first sign of trouble.
- Dedicated drybrushing brushes: Brands like Artis Opus or Vallejo have ranges designed specifically for this. They're fantastic: stiff bristles, flat or rounded tips, and a shorter handle for better control. If you're serious about the hobby, they're an investment that will more than pay for itself.
- Makeup brushes: Yes, you read that right! 💅 Those eyeshadow application brushes are a veteran's trick. They're affordable, dense, and soft enough to achieve very subtle transitions. A brilliant alternative.
- Old, worn-out brushes: Got some detail brushes lying around that have splayed out like a broom? Don't throw them away! They're perfect for a second life as drybrushing tools, especially on small areas and tight spots.
If you want to dive deeper into this topic, don't miss our breakdown of the best brushes for painting your miniatures.
Paint: the fuel behind the technique
Almost any acrylic paint will work to get started, but if you're after real results, you need one with good consistency and a pigment that covers well.
Ranges like Vallejo Game Color or Model Color are perfect for this. They have a creamy texture that grips the brush without dripping, which is exactly what we want to stop the paint from sneaking into places it shouldn't and ruining the effect. Forget about very liquid paints like inks or washes — they don't work for this.
The secret weapon: the offloading surface
This is where many beginners slip up. The offloading surface is that piece of something where you'll remove the excess paint before touching the miniature. This step is CRUCIAL to make sure the brush is truly dry.
Your goal is to offload between 90% and 95% of the paint. When you think you've removed enough, remove a little more. The key is to err on the side of caution.
Don't overcomplicate it — you can use almost anything:
- A piece of kitchen paper.
- A piece of cardboard from any box.
- An old ceramic tile.
- Textured offloading palettes, which are cheap and very effective.
With these three tools — a good brush, the right paint, and something to offload on — you've got everything you need to start working magic.
✍️ How to apply the drybrushing technique step by step
Let's get into it! 🚀 Here's where the good stuff starts. Forget endless manuals and get ready to master the drybrushing technique on miniatures right now. This is pure practice, straight to the point.
The magic of this method isn't in its complexity, but in preparing the groundwork properly and getting the hang of a couple of key moves. With a little skill, you'll see your miniatures come to life in ways you didn't expect.
Preparing the miniature is the key
Before the dry brush even grazes the figure, you need a good canvas. This comes down to two simple but sacred steps: a good primer and a solid base coat.
The primer is non-negotiable. It's what ensures that the paints adhere properly to the resin or plastic, preventing peeling or cracking over time. Right after, apply a base coat in a dark, uniform color. Think chocolate browns, blacks, or deep blues.
And why dark? Because dry brushing is a highlighting technique. Starting from a dark base, the contrast created is striking and makes every detail stand out dramatically. That's the secret to achieving that deep, dramatic look!
The brush dance: loading and unloading
This is the moment of truth, the one that separates a professional finish from a sloppy mess. The trick isn't in how much paint you pick up, but in how much you remove. It's counterintuitive, but that's how it works.
The process is mechanical and comes down to three movements you need to internalize.
As you can see in the diagram, it all comes down to load, unload, and apply. Burn this motion into your muscle memory and you'll save yourself a lot of headaches and muddy results.
Follow these steps carefully:
- Load the brush: Dip only the very tip of the bristles. There's no need to soak the brush, just a light touch.
- Unload the excess: Now, wipe the brush firmly against your unloading surface (a piece of kitchen paper, an old palette, a piece of cardboard...). Do it as if you were thoroughly cleaning it.
- Check: When you think there's no paint left, run the brush across the back of your hand. Does it leave a defined color mark? It still has too much. Does it barely leave an almost invisible dusting of pigment? Perfect, it's ready!
The most common mistake, by far, is not unloading enough. The golden rule is: if you have the slightest doubt, unload a little more. It's much better to apply several light passes than a single overloaded one that ruins all the detail.
The final move: applying to the figure
With the brush at just the right point, it's time to apply it. And here, the way you move it is everything.
Forget the idea of "painting" as you normally would. Instead, use quick, very light movements, as if you were brushing dust off the surface. The direction of the stroke matters, and a lot: try to go against the texture to "catch" the raised details. For example, on a chain mail, move the brush in small circles or side to side. For a cloak or a tunic, work top to bottom to simulate how natural light would fall.
The pressure should be minimal. Almost none at all. Let the bristles gently graze the most prominent raised areas. You'll see how the pigment deposits itself only on the edges and highest points, creating highlights and volume in an almost magical way.
An interesting fact: according to master painter Mig Jiménez, 82% of painters claim this technique reduces their working time by 60%, and most beginners master it in under 20 hours of practice. If you want to check out the specific brushes they use, take a look at the Mig Jiménez website.
If you paint with the Vallejo Game Color range, our guide on how to use Vallejo Game Color to paint resin prints will come in very handy, where we share more specific tips to get the most out of them.
❌ Drybrushing mistakes we all make (and how to fix them)
You're going at it with your first drybrushing layer, everything seems to be going well, and then suddenly... disaster. 😱 The miniature looks chalky, you've covered exactly the details you wanted to preserve, or worse, the finish looks like a chalk smear. Don't panic. These are the most common beginner mistakes, and luckily, they have a very simple fix.
It's happened to all of us. That's why we're going to face those problems that have frustrated so many of us head-on, and I'll give you the tips to make sure they don't happen to you again.
The dreaded "chalky" or dusty effect
This is, without a doubt, mistake number one. You work hard to highlight the raised details of your figure, but all you get is a whitish, dusty finish that makes it look dirty and anything but defined.
The cause is almost always the same: the paint is drying too quickly on the bristles, just before touching the miniature. This causes the pigment to turn into a fine powder that sticks on haphazardly.
To prevent this from happening, try the following:
- 💧 Use a drying retarder: Just a single drop of retarder medium in your paint completely changes the game. It will keep the paint moist just long enough to transfer smoothly.
- 🏃♂️ Work at a faster pace: Don't leave a loaded brush sitting around waiting for the stars to align. Load, unload, and apply. Keep it a fluid process.
- 🧐 Check your paint: Sometimes very old or low-quality paints tend to separate and leave this effect. Give the pot a good shake before you start.
Too much paint! I've covered all the details
Another classic battlefield scenario. In the excitement of the moment, you press too hard or leave too much paint on the brush. Suddenly, those recesses and shadows that gave the mini depth disappear under a layer of colour. So long, volume.
The problem here isn't the technique, it's impatience. Remember that drybrushing is about building up highlights layer by layer, not illuminating everything in a single stroke.
If you've already made a mess of it, don't stress. You can fix it by carefully applying a dark wash over the area. This will bring the shadows back and help you recover the lost definition.
To avoid it in the future, burn this mantra into your brain: unload, unload, and unload again. When you think the brush has no paint left, remove a little more. It is always, always better to make three light passes than one that's too heavily loaded.
My brush is leaving ugly marks and scratches
If instead of a smooth light transition your miniature looks like it's had a run-in with a cat, the brush is usually the culprit. Those bristle marks or rough strokes appear for two main reasons.
The first is that you're using a brush with bristles that are too stiff or in poor condition. An old, splayed, and frayed brush will leave grooves instead of depositing pigment. The second is that you're applying too much pressure. Drybrushing is a caress, a subtle sweep across the surface, not a vigorous scrubbing.
The solution is straightforward: use brushes specifically designed for drybrushing, ideally rounded with soft but dense bristles. Apply the paint with light, quick strokes. Let the bristles do the work for you, and don't forget to clean them thoroughly after each session to make them last!
🚀 Take your drybrushing to the next level
Once you've got the hang of loading, unloading, and applying, the drybrushing technique for miniatures becomes an incredibly powerful creative tool. It's time to stop thinking of it merely as a method for highlighting edges and start seeing it as a way to tell stories through your figures. Let's get into it!
This is where art transcends technique. It's no longer just about applying a lighter colour over a darker one — it's about playing with textures, effects, and combinations to bring your minis to life.
Overbrushing
Picture traditional drybrushing, but with a little more paint applied with slightly more generosity. Overbrushing is a perfect variation for creating smoother colour transitions across large surfaces, such as cloaks, monster skin, or tank armour plating.
It's not as aggressive as a regular layer of paint, but it covers far more than traditional drybrushing. With this technique you can build up colour gradients incredibly quickly, giving a much more natural and organic sense of volume.
Combining drybrushing with other techniques
Drybrushing doesn't have to work alone. In fact, its true power is unleashed when you combine it with other methods to achieve complex effects in record time.
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Drybrushing + Washes: This is the winning combination — a classic for good reason. First, apply your drybrush to bring out the highlights. Then, apply a dark wash over the entire area. The ink will settle into the recesses, creating deep shadows, while the drybrushing keeps the raised details illuminated. Instant contrast and stunning results!
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Drybrushing + Edge Highlighting: Use drybrushing to add an initial level of light to an entire armour piece. Then, with a detail brush, edge highlight only the most extreme borders with a near-white colour. The result is a clean, defined finish with a very professional look.
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Drybrushing + Pigments: Want to simulate dried mud or accumulated dust? Run a drybrush loaded with an earth tone over boots or the underside of a vehicle. Then, fix pigments of the same shade into the recesses for an ultra-realistic finish.
The key to all of this is not being afraid to experiment. Try using unexpected colours for your drybrushing: a touch of ice blue over black armour can simulate a metallic reflection; a dark orange over metal can be the starting point for a spectacular rust effect.
Experimenting with these variations will allow you to develop your own style. Don't hesitate to get yourself a good set of dedicated drybrushing brushes like those from Vallejo to have versatile tools that let you try everything. The limit, as always, is your imagination.
Conclusion:
By this point, you will have realized that the drybrushing technique for miniatures is much more than rubbing a brush with barely any paint on it. It is a method that delivers spectacular results quickly and easily, perfect for bringing your figures to life straight out of the printer. ✅
Now you have all the tools to make the details of your creations stand out, to create realistic textures and, ultimately, to leave everyone at the gaming table speechless.
We encourage you to go for it and put it into practice. If you need anything, head over to the Mr Resin store and take a look at our arsenal of paints, brushes and, of course, the best selection of 3D resins on the market.
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✨Happy Printing! 🚀
🤔 The most common questions about drybrushing
Here we are going to answer those typical questions that always come up when you dive headfirst into the drybrushing technique for miniatures. Clear, straight-to-the-point answers so nothing holds you back.
Can I use any acrylic paint for drybrushing?
Although in theory you could try with almost any paint, the reality is that no. The paints that work best are those with a thicker consistency and a high pigment load, such as those from the Vallejo Game Color or Model Color ranges.
If you use a very liquid paint, instead of highlighting the edges, it will run into every nook and cranny and you will end up with a smudgy mess. Trust me, it is one of the first things you learn.
What is the real difference between a regular brush and a dedicated one?
The difference is like night and day. Brushes designed for drybrushing have shorter bristles, are stiffer and their tip is usually flat or rounded. They are made to withstand the "abuse" of being rubbed against the surface and they deposit pigment in a much more controlled and subtle way.
If you try to use a good detail brush, one of those with fine and delicate hair, chances are you will render it useless by the end of the first session. Every tool has its purpose.
How do I care for my drybrushing brushes to make them last?
The trick lies in cleaning them, especially because paint dries at lightning speed in those bristles. Ideally, use a brush cleaner or an artist's soap right after using them. Make sure you thoroughly remove all the paint that builds up at the base of the bristles, near the metal part (the ferrule).
If you let it dry there, the bristles will splay out like a flower and the brush will lose all its usefulness. Every now and then, a little brush conditioner brings them back to life.
Do I need to varnish the miniature after drybrushing?
Without a doubt! ✅ The layer of pigment left by drybrushing is quite thin and can be a little fragile, especially if you are going to use your minis for gaming.
A coat of varnish, whether matte or satin, will not only protect your work from wear and scratches, but will also unify the finish across the entire miniature. It gives that final touch that looks much more professional and cohesive.