Guide to 3D Printing and Painting Warhammer Space Marines

Printing your own Warhammer Space Marines in 3D is the ultimate step to creating a unique army tailored to your vision, allowing you to go from a digital file to a complete squad ready for battle without spending a fortune on boxes. If you're here, it's because the time has come to take that leap of faith and expand your legions.

Take a seat, because I'm going to tell you, straight up like a fellow maker, how to go from a simple STL file to having a squad of genetically enhanced super-soldiers ready to purge the galaxy. Let's get into it! 🚀

Where to find and how to prepare 3D files for Space Marines?

The first step is finding quality STL files, which means a design with good detail that's optimised for printing without giving you a headache. In my experience, the best models tend to come from specialised artists who even offer pre-supported versions — a genuine luxury that saves you a lot of work and failed prints.

Which websites do I recommend for downloading Space Marine STLs?

To start hunting for STLs, I always head to two types of sites. On one hand, the giant repositories, and on the other, my personal favourite: Patreons and Tribes from specialised artists. That's where you find the real gems.

• Generalist platforms: Sites like Cults3D, MyMiniFactory or Thingiverse are a must-visit. You'll find everything from classic marines to the wildest custom versions. That said, quality can be a minefield, so I recommend digging through the comments and looking for print photos from other users before downloading anything.

• Patreon and Tribes: This is where the good stuff happens. Artists like StationForge, The Makers Cult or Puppetswar are absolutely brilliant. For a monthly subscription that usually costs less than a single branded character, you get entire armies. Best of all, they're typically pre-supported by professionals, saving you a huge amount of work.

My Mr Resin tip: Before you hit download or buy, take a close look at the photos. Do the proportions match the rest of your army? Are the fine details — like purity seals or chapter emblems — sharp and clear? A good STL is obvious from a mile away and will save you a lot of frustration.

How should I prepare the model in the Slicer for printing?

You've got your file. Great. Now comes the moment of truth: preparing it in a slicer programme. I almost always use Lychee Slicer, though Chitubox is also a classic. This programme is what translates your 3D model into a language the printer understands, slicing it into ultra-thin layers.

I'm not exaggerating when I say that good preparation accounts for 90% of the success of your print.

The first and most important thing is the orientation of the piece. My personal trick, after hundreds of printed marines, is to tilt the miniature around 30-45 degrees backwards. The reason is simple: this way, the small marks left by the supports when you remove them end up in areas that won't be seen — like under the backpack, on the back, or on the soles of the boots. Nobody wants a scar right in the middle of the imperial eagle.

With the miniature properly positioned, it's time to add supports. These are the scaffolding that will hold the model in place while it prints. Slicers have an automatic function that works well as a starting point, but I always recommend doing a manual review. Add some thin supports at key points the software may have missed: the tip of a chainsword, fingers, helmet antennae… Those small details make all the difference.

For bigger models, like a Land Raider tank, using the hollow (hollow) function is a must. You can save a ridiculous amount of resin by making the piece hollow. Just don't forget to add drainage holes! Place a couple at the lowest and most hidden part of the model so that all the liquid resin (hardened by UV light) trapped inside can escape without any issues.

And speaking of legions, if you're looking for inspiration or information about a specific chapter, check out my guide to the most iconic Space Marines chapters.

Finally, a piece of advice worth its weight in gold: invest in a good high-definition resin. The difference in the level of detail on the power armour, rivets, and engravings is incredible. It's the finishing touch that makes all the previous work truly worth it.

What resin and 3D printer settings should you use for Space Marines?

Resin and 3D printer settings are crucial for achieving miniatures with a professional level of detail. Not all resins are equal; the right choice will depend on whether you're looking for maximum detail for a display piece or greater durability for gaming miniatures.

Not all resins are equal, not even close. What works for printing a huge functional object will probably be a disaster for capturing the microscopic details of a power armour. Trust me, the right material is everything.

After countless hours and prints, I've learned (sometimes the hard way) that the choice changes completely depending on what you're after. Do you want maximum detail for a display piece? Or do you need them to withstand the knocks of a gaming session? Let's get into it.

What is the perfect resin for my legions?

Think of resin as the lifeblood of your miniatures. For those ultra-fine details on the marines — chapter emblems, purity seals, or helmet grilles — my advice is to go all in: use a high-definition resin.

These resins, which you'll often see labelled as 8K or even higher, are formulated to capture details that are barely visible to the naked eye. The result is, simply put, on another level.

Of course, if your marines are going to hit the battlefield, fragility is your worst enemy. For that, my go-to choice is ABS-Like resins. They have an impact resistance and a touch of flexibility that standard resins can't even dream of. With them, those chainswords, antennae, and delicate ornaments have a much better chance of surviving an accidental drop.

Brands like Anycubic and Elegoo have brilliant options in both categories that I've tested extensively with excellent results.

A Mr. Resin tip: I love experimenting with mixing resins. One trick that works wonders for me is adding 10-15% of flexible resin to my favourite 8K resin. You get the best of both worlds: incredible detail with extra durability that you'll really appreciate when your captain takes a tumble off the table.

To make things clearer, I've put together this table to help you choose the perfect resin for your marines.

Resin comparison table for printing Space Marines

Choosing wisely here is the difference between a miniature you're afraid to touch and one you can proudly take to your games.

What 3D printer settings should I use for the glory of the Emperor?

Having the best resin on the market means nothing if your printer settings are a mess. This is where legends are forged (and where hours of printing get thrown in the bin). The two key parameters are layer height and exposure time.

For layer height, a value of 0.05 mm (50 microns) is a good starting point. It offers a fantastic balance between speed and detail. But if you're printing a special character, a captain or a librarian, I'd encourage you to go down to 0.03 mm (30 microns). Yes, the print will take longer, but the difference in the smoothness of the armour and the sharpness of the edges is enormous.

Exposure time is the heartbeat of your printer; the time the UV light solidifies each layer of resin at a wavelength of 405nm. This value changes depending on the resin and the power of your machine. As a reference:

• Standard resins (grey): Usually need between 2 and 3 seconds per layer.
• Fast resins: Can go down to 1.5-2 seconds.
• Dark resins (black): Require more time, around 3-4 seconds.

To nail it, always print a calibration test. My favourites are the "Cones of Calibration" or the "AmeraLabs Town". They are small files that in 15 minutes will tell you if you are over-exposing (bloated details) or under-exposing (missing parts). It is the best investment of time you can make.

If you want to dive deeper and become a master of materials, take a look at my complete guide on types of resins for 3D printing, where I break these concepts down in much more detail.

How do I do the post-processing for a perfect finish on my miniatures?

Good post-processing is essential to transform a freshly printed piece into a professional miniature. This process, which includes cleaning, support removal and UV curing, is key to achieving a smooth, detailed and durable finish, ready for the painting phase.

If we do it wrong, even the best-printed Space Marine can end up sticky, with blurry details or so fragile it breaks just by looking at it.

What is the best strategy for removing the piece and the supports?

The first thing is to detach the piece from the build plate. Forget about forcing it with a rough lever; slide the spatula carefully along a corner, applying gentle but firm pressure until it comes loose. Patience is key.

Here comes a golden tip that many people skip: remove the supports BEFORE the final curing. The resin is still soft and flexible, which allows you to cut the supports with fine flush cutters leaving a minimal mark. If you wait until after curing, the piece will be as hard as a rock and it will be much easier to take a chunk with you.

A trick I have learned over the years: Always start with the thickest supports and work your way towards the thinnest. Try to cut as flush as possible to the miniature, but without touching it. It is better to leave a small nub that you will sand down later than to rip off a piece of power armour.

What do I use for cleaning: isopropyl alcohol or water?

With the supports removed, it's time to clean off the remaining liquid resin. You have two main options, depending on the resin you use.

• Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA): The classic and most effective method. Submerge the miniature in a container with post-processing alcohol and gently agitate it for 2-3 minutes. If you have a washing station, the magnetic vortex will do it for you. IPA is foolproof, but don't forget to wear gloves and ventilate the area well.
• Water-Washable Resins: A fantastic alternative to avoid odours and handling alcohol. The process is the same: a dip of a few minutes in water with some agitation. If you're interested in the topic, I have a complete guide on how Anycubic washing and curing stations work.

After washing, it's essential that the piece is completely dry before curing it. I use a small air compressor to blow into all the nooks and crannies, but leaving it to air dry on kitchen paper also works perfectly.

UV curing: the final touch that changes everything

Curing is the process in which ultraviolet (UV) light hardens the resin, giving it its strength and final finish. You can use a dedicated curing station (most recommended) or rely on sunlight, although this method is much less precise.

But be careful not to overdo it! Over-curing can make the resin so brittle that energy swords or antennae snap at the slightest touch.

List of recommended curing times:

• Standard Space Marine: 2-3 minutes in a UV station, turning it halfway through so it cures evenly.
• Large piece (e.g. Dreadnought): 4-5 minutes, making sure the UV light reaches the entire surface properly.
• Thin or delicate pieces: 1-2 minutes maximum. Here it's better to under-cure than to over-cure.

Fixing small imperfections

Even with the cleanest process, small support marks or a more visible layer line can sometimes remain. Don't panic! To fill those small pits, I use a tiny amount of plastic putty applied with the tip of a modelling blade.

Once the putty is dry, a very gentle pass with fine-grit sandpaper (800 or higher) will leave the surface ready for primer. Now your marine is flawless and ready to receive its colours.

What colours and painting techniques should you use to bring your Space Marines to life?

The key step for paint to adhere correctly to resin is priming, which creates a uniform base coat. The choice of primer colour (black for shadows, white for vivid colours, or grey as a balanced option) will influence the final result of your chapter's colour scheme.

Think of primer as the invisible glue between the resin and the paint. Without a good coat, acrylic paint will slide off, cover in patches, and chip if you so much as look at it wrong. To apply it you have two options: the classic spray or an airbrush. Personally, I go with the airbrush; the control and fine finish you achieve are on another level.

Why does primer color matter so much?

It really does matter. The color of the primer you choose will shape your entire workflow. Each one has its own trick and will make your life easier (or harder) depending on what you're looking for.

• Black: The safe option, especially for dark color schemes or if you're just starting out. Any corner your brush doesn't reach will stay black, creating a natural shadow. It's very forgiving with mistakes.
• White: Essential if you're going for super vivid and bright colors, like yellows or intense reds. The paint you apply on top will have maximum saturation. Just be careful, though, because any mistake will stand out a mile.
• Grey: The ultimate all-rounder. When in doubt, go grey. It offers a perfect balance that makes both light and dark tones look great without having to fight with them.

What color palettes and techniques do I use for legendary chapters?

With the mini primed and fully dry, the moment of truth arrives. Space Marines are more popular than ever, largely thanks to the massive success of Warhammer 40,000: Space Marine II, which has shifted 7 million copies in less than a year. This huge hit has driven demand for materials to paint these warriors through the roof, and I'm going to give you the keys to making yours look display-worthy. You can read more about this phenomenon at the Gamereactor.es article .

To get started, grab a good selection of paints and some decent brushes. From experience, I can tell you that the Vallejo ranges (Game Color for brush and Game Air for airbrush) are a solid choice for their quality-to-price ratio.

Here's a quick cheat sheet with basic recipes for some iconic chapters:

My Mr Resin tip: If you're just starting out, Vallejo's Xpress Color inks are an absolute blessing. Apply a base coat in whatever color you like and then put on a generous layer of Xpress ink. It's pure magic! The ink settles into the recesses on its own, creating shadows while leaving the edges lighter — all in a single step.

Once you have your base coat and shading done, the next step to take your miniature's quality to the next level is highlighting. The star technique here is edge highlighting. It's simply a matter of taking a fine brush, loading it with a color lighter than your base, and carefully running it along only the edges and raised surfaces of the armor. If you want to dive deeper into this, I recommend our dedicated article on how to paint Ultramarines step by step, where I break down these techniques in detail.

How do I take my Marines to the next level with transfers and special effects?

Final details like transfers, weathering effects, and varnishes are what truly separate a well-painted miniature from a genuine collector's piece. Mastering these techniques, inspired by benchmarks like the video game Warhammer 40,000: Space Marine II, will allow you to achieve a professional and realistic finish.

The level of detail seen in the hobby scene nowadays has skyrocketed. Part of that is down to games like Warhammer 40,000: Space Marine II, which have left us all completely speechless — and rightly so, with a score of 82 on Metacritic, it has become an incredible visual benchmark.

This massive reception has led a huge number of modelers to want to replicate that realism in their miniatures, driving a surge of interest in more professional painting materials and effects. If you want to find out more about how this milestone has influenced the community, this article from DLCompare explains it pretty well.

What's the trick to avoid problems with decals?

Decals are the great enemy of many painters, especially when applying them to curved surfaces like a Space Marine's shoulder pads. The usual result? Wrinkles, silvering, and that horrible "sticker effect".

My secret for taming them is decal softening liquids.

First of all, apply a thin coat of gloss varnish where you're going to place the decal. This creates a smooth surface that makes the whole process easier.

• Step 1: Take a brush and apply a small drop of a setting solution (like Microset) onto the shoulder pad to improve adhesion.
• Step 2: Once the decal has soaked in water, slide it onto the prepared area. Use the brush to adjust it to its exact position.
• Step 3: Now, the magic. Carefully apply a coat of softening liquid (such as the Vallejo decal softener) over the placed decal. This liquid slightly "melts" the plastic of the decal, making it conform to the curved shape. It's crucial not to touch it while it works!

Once it's completely dry, seal everything with another coat of varnish. Say goodbye forever to the sticker effect!

What varnish should I use to protect my masterpiece?

After spending hours and hours painting, the last thing you want is a simple scrape ruining your work. Varnishing is, quite simply, essential. Varnishes not only protect, but also unify the finish across the entire miniature, eliminating unwanted shine.

My personal trick: For bulletproof protection, I first apply a general coat of gloss varnish (it's the hardest and most resistant). Once dry, I then apply the matte or satin varnish wherever needed to achieve the final finish I'm after. Double protection, perfect finish.

How do I create special effects for a god-tier result?

This is where we put the finishing touch. A great plasma glow or a well-crafted base can make your Space Marine the centre of attention on the gaming table.

• Plasma effect on weapons: Paint the weapon area pure white. Then, with a very diluted blue or green color, apply very thin layers around it, letting the white in the center remain visible.
• Blood and gore (gore!): Don't even think about using regular red paint. Products like Vallejo's FX Bloody Red have a consistency and shine that perfectly imitate fresh blood.
• Helmet lenses: Paint the lens black. Then, in a lower corner, paint a crescent shape in a dark color and, on top of it, a smaller one in a brighter color. To finish, a tiny dot of pure white in the opposite upper corner. Instant glassy effect!
• Bases with a life of their own: Please don't leave the base black. The Vallejo Diorama FX range has great pastes for simulating mud, snow, or sand. It's as easy as applying the paste with a spatula and letting it dry.

Frequently asked questions about Space Marines and 3D printing

I've compiled the most common questions you tend to ask me here — those little stumbling blocks we all run into when we start printing our own Warhammer Space Marines. The idea is to give you straightforward answers and solutions that save you time and more than a few headaches. Let's get into it!

Is it legal to 3D print Warhammer miniatures?

Printing minis for your own personal use is a super widespread and accepted practice in the community. The legal issue arises if you try to sell those prints or distribute copyrighted files.

Also, if you're planning to attend an official Games Workshop tournament, it's very likely they'll require you to use exclusively original brand miniatures.

What do I do if my Space Marine print fails?

Don't panic — it's happened to all of us. My personal method is simple: first, I check that the print bed is leveled and that the ambient temperature is stable (between 20-25 °C).

Then, I make sure the mini has enough support, especially on "islands" (parts that start printing in mid-air). Finally, check that the tank film (FEP, nFEP or ACF) is clean and undamaged.

Do I need an airbrush to paint Space Marines?

You don't need one, but it's one of the best investments you'll make in this hobby if you plan to paint an entire army. An airbrush saves you a huge amount of time when applying primer and base colors.

That said, with good brushes and a bit of skill, you can achieve display-quality results without a doubt.

How do I keep swords and antennae from breaking?

Ah, the classic nightmare of thin parts. My personal trick, which never fails, is to use resins with extra hardness, such as ABS-Like resins, which have a degree of flexibility.

Also, a golden tip: don't overdo the curing of the piece with UV light, as excessive curing makes it super brittle and fragile.

Conclusion:

Well, what a journey! We've gone through the entire process, from hunting down the perfect STL to adding the final coat of varnish to your Warhammer Space Marines. I hope this guide helps you take the plunge and start creating your own legions.

Remember that 3D printing and painting are a learning journey. Try, fail, experiment with resins and colors, and above all, enjoy the process! There's nothing like seeing your army, made by yourself, deployed on the gaming table.