🎨 2026 Guide: How to Paint Space Marines Ultramarines Step by Step

Getting your Ultramarines Space Marines to look legendary is simpler than it seems. The key, as almost always in this hobby, comes down to three things: good preparation, applying the armor blue without hesitation, and adding details with patience. With the right techniques and materials, you'll see how a simple figure printed in resin transforms into a true hero of Macragge. 💪

Prepare your arsenal for painting legendary Ultramarines 🛡️

Before the first drop of paint touches the miniature, preparation is everything. I say this from experience: skipping this step is the fastest way to ruin hours of work. 😅 This initial process is what ensures the paint adheres properly and that every detail of the Marine, no matter how small, stands out as it should. It's like the foundations of a building: if the base is solid, everything else will hold firm.

And speaking of bases, the starting point is, without a doubt, the quality of your print. Using a good resin for your 3D printer is essential, as the sharpness and definition of every detail depends on it — from the imperial eagle on the chest to the joints of the power armor. A clean, crisp print will save you a lot of headaches down the line.

Cleaning and curing the miniature

Once you have the figure out of the printer, post-processing is sacred. Washing removes any remaining liquid resin that may have been left behind, which is vital for the primer to adhere correctly. If you want to simplify this step, water-washable resin is a fantastic option, as it allows you to clean the parts without needing isopropyl alcohol, which isn't always on hand.

After washing, it's time to cure. This process hardens the resin and gives it its final durability. Make sure the miniature is properly cured but don't overdo it, because over-curing can make it brittle and fragile.

Veteran tip: 🧑‍🎨 Don't skip the washing! No matter how clean the figure looks, leftover liquid resin — even the kind you can't see — is enemy number one. It will cause the primer and paint to lift, and you'll have to start from scratch.

The essential painting kit

With your Marine cleaned, cured, and ready for action, it's time to set up your painting station. You don't need an endless arsenal of pots and brushes, but you do need some key tools to get off to a good start.

Here's a list of the basics for painting your Ultramarines:

• Quality primer: A good primer, whether in spray or airbrush form, creates the perfect surface for paint to adhere to. A neutral grey or even a blue are excellent options for this scheme.
• Acrylic paints: You'll need the basic colors of the Ultramarine scheme. With an intense blue (like Ultramarines Blue), a metallic gold, black, white and a steel tone, you already have the initial palette covered.
• Brushes in various sizes: To get started, a medium brush for base coats, a fine one for details and an old brush to mess around with techniques like drybrushing is more than enough. If you want to go deeper, take a look at our guide on the best brushes for painting miniatures.
• Palette and water: A wet palette is ideal for keeping paints from drying out, but to get started any non-porous surface will do, like an old tile. And, of course, water to thin the paint and clean your brushes. Keep your tools clean!

How to achieve the perfect Ultramarine blue with base coats 🔵

Let's get to it. The iconic blue of the Ultramarines starts with a flawless base. This is the step that defines the tone of the entire armor, so it's worth taking your time and care with it. Trust me, a good primer and well-applied base coats are the difference between a miniature that looks like a toy and a true hero of Macragge with a professional finish. 🤩

Primer is your best friend, truly. Its job is to create a matte and slightly porous surface so that the acrylic paint can grip properly. You can apply it with a spray can or, my favorite method, with an airbrush. The airbrush gives you total control, allowing you to apply ultra-thin coats that preserve every last detail of your resin-printed miniature.

This small diagram visualizes the process we follow: don't skip any step if you want a good result.

As you can see, the logical sequence of cleaning, priming and painting is fundamental. No shortcuts!

The ideal primer for your marines

For Ultramarines, a grey primer is a safe bet. It offers a neutral tone that won't alter the blue of the base coat and, on top of that, will help you see the volumes of the figure much better when you start painting.

In Spain, the Warhammer 40k community keeps growing, and the Ultramarines are, without a doubt, the most popular chapter. At Mr Resin, to paint these blue warriors, we usually start with primers like Vallejo Surface Primer grey. Applied with an airbrush, you achieve a uniform and perfect coverage, ideal for 3D resins from printers like Anycubic or Elegoo.

Time to add color! Applying the base coats

With the primer already dry, the most anticipated moment arrives: bringing the armor to life! This is where your Space Marine starts to look like a real Ultramarine.

The secret to a perfect base coat is working with two thin coats instead of one thick one. If you slap on a big thick brushstroke of paint, you'll cover up the details and leave a rough, textured finish. To avoid this, always thin the paint with a little water or thinner on your palette. The ideal consistency is that of skimmed milk: it should flow well from the brush, but without becoming too watery.

Watch the dilution! 👀 If the paint is too diluted, it will seep into the recesses and act like an ink, leaving the central panel almost colorless. If it's too thick, it will leave brush marks and obscure details. Finding the balance is key!

To give you an idea, here's a basic recipe for Ultramarine blue that works like a charm.

Color recipe for Ultramarine armor with Vallejo

This table is a quick guide with the essential colors from the Vallejo range to achieve the classic Ultramarines color scheme, from the base coat to the first highlights.

With these three colors you already have an incredible foundation to keep working on the highlights and details.

To apply the base color, as we mentioned, the usual process involves using Vallejo Game Color Ultramarines Blue. I dilute it approximately 1:1 with water or thinner to achieve translucent coats that, when layered, simulate the depth of ceramic armor. Apply the first coat, let it dry completely (patience is key — it's the backbone of good painting!), then apply the second. You'll see how the color becomes solid and vibrant without sacrificing a single detail.

If you want to master the colors from this brand, don't miss our guide on Vallejo paint ranges for scale modeling.

Add depth and volume with shading and panel lining 🖌️

This is where the real magic happens. 🎨 With the blue base already applied, your Space Marine has the right color, but still looks a little flat. Now we're going to bring it to life, create volume, and define each piece of armor so it looks like a soldier in three dimensions rather than a simple figure.

Let's get our hands dirty!

Shading with inks or washes (shades)

The first step to creating depth is shading. The easiest and most effective way to do it is with inks or washes (shades). These are very liquid paints that, due to their low surface tension, naturally flow into recesses, panel lines, and any crevice in the armor.

As they dry, they darken precisely those areas, simulating shadows and making the raised panels stand out almost like magic. It's like cheating! 😉

For an Ultramarine, a dark blue ink like Vallejo Game Wash Blue Shade (73.207) or even a black one like Black Wash (73.201) work wonderfully. The blue will give you more subtle and integrated shadows, while the black creates a much stronger and more dramatic contrast.

There are two ways to apply these washes:

• General wash (all-over wash): This involves applying the ink generously all over the miniature. It's quick and very effective for beginners, but it has a downside: it can stain or "dirty" flat surfaces if you're not careful, leaving a less clean finish.
• Selective wash (pin wash): This technique requires more precision. Using a fine brush, you apply the ink only on panel lines, rivets, and recesses. The result is infinitely cleaner and more controlled. For me, it's the ideal method for power armour.

My personal tip: ✨ For maximum control with the selective wash, first apply a thin coat of satin varnish over the base blue. This creates a super-slick surface that allows the ink to flow like water down a slide directly into the recesses. That way, you can clean up any excess from the flat areas with a damp brush, effortlessly.

The art of panel lining to define the armour

Once the wash is dry, your marine already has shadows, but we can go one step further to define it. Panel lining is the technique of going over the joints between armour pieces with a dark colour.

You can use a mix of your base blue with a little black, or directly a very dark blue like Vallejo Game Color Night Blue (72.019). With the tip of a fine brush and a steady hand, draw a thin line at the join between, for example, the shoulder pad and the torso, or between the thigh and the shin guard.

This simple step creates a sharp visual separation between each component, making the overall look much more readable and professional. If the selective wash has already done most of the work, panel lining is the cherry on top to ensure every line is perfectly defined.

Glazes for smooth transitions

This is a more advanced technique, but one that completely transforms the result. A glaze is an extremely diluted layer of paint, almost tinted water. They are used to modulate tones, smooth colour transitions, or subtly correct small mistakes.

Did a highlight come out too harsh? A shadow too dark? You can apply a glaze of the base blue colour over the top to unify everything. The process is slow, as you need to apply very thin layers and let them dry in between, but the control it gives you over the final colour is absolute.

It's the technique that sets a well-painted miniature apart from a masterpiece. 💯

Bring your marine to life: highlights and golden details ✨

Once the shadows have defined the volume of the armour, we reach my favourite part: making the miniature shine and come to life. Now it's time to apply the highlights and paint all those details that transform an anonymous marine into a hero with a story.

The key technique: edge highlighting

Edge highlighting (or edge highlighting) is the go-to technique for giving power armour that sharp, spectacular finish so characteristic of the style. The idea is simple: paint a very thin line with a lighter colour on all the edges and raised areas where light would naturally hit.

To begin, take your base blue (for example, Ultramarines Blue) and mix it with a slightly lighter blue, such as Vallejo Game Color Magic Blue (72.021). Load very little paint onto a fine brush, remove the excess and, very carefully, use the side of the bristles to "graze" the edges. Patience and a steady hand are everything here.

If you want to take it one step further, you can apply a second highlight, even thinner, only on the corners and points of maximum light. To do this, add a touch of white or a bone colour to the previous mix. This small final highlight will draw all eyes to it.

The imperial gold of the Ultramarines ⚜️

Gold details are the hallmark of the Ultramarines. Think of the shoulder pads, the aquila on the chest, or the ornamentation of a sergeant or veteran. A good metallic gold adds that touch of nobility and power that defines the chapter.

My personal recipe for a gold that leaves no one indifferent:

• Base: I always start with a dark metallic, such as Vallejo Metal Color Gold (77.725). This creates a rich base with plenty of depth.
• Shadow: I apply a selective wash with an ink such as Reikland Fleshshade or Vallejo Game Wash Sepia Shade (73.200). This gives it a warmer tone and defines the recesses.
• Highlight: I reapply the base colour on the raised areas, avoiding the recesses, and highlight the edges with a brighter gold. Liberator Gold or Vallejo Game Color Polished Gold (72.055) work wonderfully.

Tournament tip 🏆: In tournaments, where every detail counts, painting metals is crucial. A good gold not only looks great in the display cabinet, but can impress judges and make your army stand out on the gaming table. Well-painted metals are a decisive factor.

Small details that change everything

With the blue and gold done, all that remains are the finishing touches. These small details are what complete the miniature and give it character.

• Eyes: A bright red or green dot with a tiny white spot in one corner will create a lens effect that brings an incredible amount of life to the miniature.
• Purity seals: The parchment in a bone color and the wax in red. A sepia wash over the parchment and some very fine black lines simulating text are enough for a great result.
• Holsters and leather: A dark brown as the base, a black or dark brown wash, and a soft highlight on the edges. It doesn't need anything more.
• Weapons: Paint the bolter casing in black or dark red, and the metal parts with a steel color such as Vallejo Model Color Gunmetal Grey (70.863). A black wash over the metal will unify everything and add depth.

One extra tip: if you print custom pieces, such as special weapons or heads, I recommend using an ABS-like resin. Its durability is ideal for keeping these fine details intact through the wear and tear of gaming sessions without breaking.

Protect your work and create a base worthy of your miniature 🏆

You're almost there! After all the hard work you've put in, the last thing you want is for the paint to get ruined at the first scratch. Protecting your miniature is just as important as painting it, and for that, varnish is your best ally.

A good varnish not only protects against dust and wear from handling during gaming sessions, but also unifies the finish and can enhance certain effects. You have three main finishes to choose from:

• Matte Varnish: This is my preferred option for power armor. It eliminates any unwanted shine and gives a realistic, battle-worn appearance.
• Satin Varnish: A very interesting middle ground. It adds a subtle sheen, ideal for areas like leather, fabrics, or even the armor itself if you're going for a "straight out of the forge" finish.
• Gloss Varnish: I reserve this one for very specific details. It's perfect for gems, visors, eye lenses, or for creating moisture or fresh blood effects.

A trick I often use is to first apply a general coat of satin varnish with the airbrush (which tends to be more durable) and, once dry, apply a coat of matte varnish to kill the shine on the armor, leaving the metallic details and lenses with their original sheen.

The base: the frame for your work of art

A spectacular miniature deserves a base that matches it. The base isn't just a support; it contextualizes your figure and tells a story. Please don't leave it plain black! 🙏 Creating a themed base is much easier than it looks and makes a dramatic difference.

For a classic battlefield base, you can use texture pastes like those from Vallejo. They're amazing!

My process for a quick and effective base: apply the texture paste, let it dry thoroughly, then paint it with earth tones. A good dark wash and a drybrush with a light tone to bring out the relief work wonders. The result is spectacular!

To finish, add some details like a bit of electrostatic grass, a tuft of Army Painter grass, or a small rock. These elements will bring life and realism to the whole piece. If you need inspiration, I recommend taking a look at our tutorial on how to create a desert terrain base with Vallejo products.

Conclusion:

Congratulations, commander! You have completed the guide and now you have all the keys to paint Ultramarines with a professional finish. We have seen how to prepare the figure, apply the iconic blue, add shadows and highlight the edges for a sharp and spectacular result. Your minis will never be the same again!

Ready to put it into practice? Head over to the Mr. Resin store and find the best resins, paints and tools to take your army to the next level.

And if you want more tips, discounts and to stay up to date with everything, don't miss out! Join our Telegram community. There we share news, coupons and exclusive offers you won't find anywhere else. We'll be waiting for you!

Don't forget to subscribe to our Newsletter to receive more discounts and offers directly to your email.

✨Happy Printing! 🚀

Answering questions: frequently asked questions when painting Ultramarines 🤔

Let's clear up those doubts that always come up along the way. These are questions we have all asked ourselves at some point, so here are direct answers drawn from experience so you can paint with the confidence of a veteran.

Does this guide also work for plastic miniatures?

Absolutely! 👍 Although on this blog we love the world of 3D resin, all the painting techniques we have covered are 100% universal. They work just as well on a printed piece as on classic plastic minis.

The only real difference you will find is in the preparation. Instead of removing print supports, you will have to deal with the typical mould lines on plastic. Other than that, the priming process, base coats, shadows and highlights are exactly the same.

What do I do if I make a mistake when painting a highlight or edge lining?

Don't panic! 😱 It's the most common mistake in the world, and it has happened to all of us a thousand times. The simplest and cleanest solution is as follows:

Take your base blue colour, the Ultramarines Blue we used at the beginning. Thin it slightly with water and, carefully, paint over the mistake to "erase" it.

Once that correction layer is dry, you can try again more calmly. That is precisely why we insist on working with thin coats: these small corrections blend in perfectly and the fix becomes almost invisible.

A veteran's tip: If you catch the mistake right when the paint is still wet, sometimes all it takes is running a clean, slightly damp brush over it to remove it. But you have to be faster than an assault marine!

Is an airbrush required for this scheme?

Not at all. Spectacular results can be achieved and painting competitions won using only brushes. That said, the airbrush is a tool that, if you decide to take the plunge, will change your life.

It is especially useful for priming and base coats. It saves you an enormous amount of time and leaves a smooth, even finish that is hard to replicate with a brush. In addition, creating gradients and smooth transitions becomes child's play, whereas with a brush it requires much more technique and patience.

Think of it as an investment to take your hobby to the next level. It's not required, but does it ever help. 🚀