Dry brushing is one of those techniques that, when you first see it, looks like pure magic. How is it possible to highlight every muscle, every scratch on armor, or the texture of a monster's skin with just a few strokes? Well, that's what this is all about. It's a simple technique that will transform your figures.
In this guide we'll teach you everything you need to know to master dry brushing for miniatures, from the essential tools to tips for avoiding the most common mistakes.
What is dry brushing and why is it going to change your miniatures?
The dry brushing technique, or dry brushing as it's known on English-language forums, is one of the pillars of mini painting. It's incredibly simple to learn and the results it delivers are spectacular. It's the perfect method for making the details of a figure literally pop, creating contrast and volume almost instantly.
A way to highlight at full speed
In essence, dry brushing is a quick highlighting technique. Instead of painting highlights one by one, what you do is apply color selectively only to the highest parts of the miniature. Imagine pointing a very powerful flashlight at your figure: the light would only hit the ridges and edges, leaving the recesses in shadow. Dry brushing mimics exactly that.
The trick is to load the brush with paint and, right after, remove almost all of it on a piece of kitchen paper. When the brush looks like it has no paint left, you quickly sweep it over the surface of the mini. The little pigment that remains deposits itself only on the raised areas.
The result is an immediate contrast that defines the shape of the piece without having to wrestle with complex gradients. That's why it works wonderfully on figures printed with 3D resin, which capture even the finest detail.
The secret of dry brushing: The magic lies not so much in how you apply the brush, but in how much you unload it. Success depends 90% on removing the right amount of paint before touching the miniature. The key is: less is more.
When should you use dry brushing?
Although it's super versatile, there are situations where dry brushing simply has no rival. It's your best friend for:
- Highlighting textures: It's unbeatable for painting surfaces with lots of relief like fur, chainmail, wood, rocks, or dragon scales. It makes every fiber and every link stand out in seconds!
- Creating weathering effects: Want to simulate scratches, rust, or chipping on armor and vehicles? This is your technique. It adds a touch of realism and that "this mini has seen battle" look that comes out great.
- Quick highlighting for armies: If you have to paint a ton of miniatures (a shoutout to you, wargame players), drybrushing lets you achieve a more than decent finish in a fraction of the time other techniques would take.
- Edge Highlighting: By running the brush almost parallel (a 45-degree angle is ideal) along the sharp edges of armor or a weapon, you create clean, defined light lines with barely any effort.
Whether you're just starting out and looking for results that motivate you from day one, or you already have experience, the dry brush for miniatures is a tool you need to have in your arsenal. It's the ideal way to bring out the amount of detail that a high-definition resin is capable of capturing.
Key tools for expert-level drybrushing
To achieve a drybrushing finish that leaves everyone speechless, you don't need an expensive arsenal, but you do need to have the right tools at hand. Let's take a look at which brushes, paints, and accessories are going to become your best allies for mastering this technique.
The ideal brush for dry brushing
Here's the crux of the matter. The choice of brush is, without a doubt, the most decisive factor. The dry brush technique for miniatures is genuinely tough on bristles, as it involves scrubbing them over and over against textured surfaces. So, forget about using your delicate Kolinsky sable brushes for this. It would be sacrilege. 💀
What you're looking for is a brush that can take a beating, preferably with these characteristics:
- Durable bristles: Synthetic brushes are your best friends here. They handle the friction like champions, last longer, and don't lose their shape as easily.
- Rounded or domed shape: Brushes designed specifically for drybrushing have that dome-shaped head. It's no coincidence. This shape helps the paint apply smoothly and evenly over raised areas, avoiding those dreaded streaks.
- Good density: A well-packed brush is key. It allows you to load and unload pigment with much more control, resulting in a finer, more blended finish.
And no, you don't have to spend a fortune. Brands like Artis Opus are the crème de la crème, but there are much cheaper options that deliver fantastic results. In fact, a veteran's trick is to recycle old, slightly splayed brushes; their "worn-out" condition makes them perfect for this task.
The best paints for a perfect finish
Although in theory you could use almost any paint, if you want results that make a real difference, the choice matters. Acrylic paints are the undisputed queens of drybrushing. They dry quickly and their water-based formula makes them incredibly easy to work with.
The ideal is to go for paints with a high pigment load and a consistency that's neither too thick nor too watery. Ranges like Vallejo Game Color or Citadel Base are safe bets. Their pigmentation is so good that, even with very little paint, the color transfers beautifully onto raised areas.
Watch out for very liquid paints! 👁️ Stay away from inks or washes for this technique. They are too fluid and will seep into every nook and cranny, which is exactly the opposite effect we're looking for. With drybrushing, the paint stays only where you want it: on the surface.
Success depends on the interaction between the brush, the paint, and the surface where you unload. The key, as you can see, lies in that intermediate step: it is on the palette where you calibrate the exact amount of pigment so you don't ruin the work.
The palette: the secret weapon of drybrushing
This is where most beginners make a mistake. Loading and, above all, properly unloading the paint is 90% of the success of the technique. You can have the best brush in the world, but if you don't remove the excess paint correctly, the result will be a disaster.
- Kitchen paper: The most typical and handy option. It works, but it has a drawback: it sometimes leaves small fibres in the bristles that end up on your miniature. A real nuisance.
- A piece of cardboard or a tile: A homemade and very effective solution. These are surfaces that don't shed fibres. An old tile is great for "scraping" the brush and having total control.
- Texture palettes: If you want to take it a step further, this is the professional solution. These are palettes designed for this purpose, with rough surfaces that help remove paint in a controlled way. It's a small investment that makes a big difference.
If you want to dive deeper into the subject of tools, head over to our guide on the best brushes for painting miniatures, where we share more secrets. With this material and a little practice, you're going to take your figures to the next level.
Applying the drybrushing technique step by step
Now that you have the tools on the table, let's get our hands dirty. Forget the boring theory — this is more about skill than strength. I'm going to walk you through the process so your drybrushing for miniatures looks fantastic from the very first attempt. Trust me, it's much more intuitive than it seems.
The key to success, as you will see, is based on preparing the figure well, mastering the art of loading and unloading the brush, and finally, executing the movement with confidence. Let's break down each part so you have no doubts left.
Step 1: Preparation is half the battle
Before touching a drop of paint, your miniature needs to be ready for battle. This step is the foundation of everything and, if you skip it, you risk the result looking flat and lifeless.
First, the primer. Always, always apply a good coat of primer. It not only helps the paint adhere properly, but also unifies the entire surface. For drybrushing, the ideal is to use a black primer or a very dark colour (a dark grey, a chocolate brown...).
Over that base, apply a base coat to the areas where you are going to use the technique. This colour should be dark, as it will be the tone that remains in the shadows and recesses. Think of it as the dark canvas on which the highlights of drybrushing will stand out.
For example, for a chainmail coat, a black base or a very dark metallic such as Gunmetal Grey is perfect. If you are going to paint the scaly skin of a beast, a dark green or brown will be a great starting point.
Step 2: The brush loading and unloading ritual
Here comes the moment of truth, what separates a professional finish from a smudgy mess. I'm not exaggerating when I say that 99% of the success of a good dry brush comes down to how much paint you leave on the brush.
Dip only the tip of the brush into the paint. There's no need to submerge the whole thing — loading the bristles just a little is more than enough. Now, grab your unloading palette (a piece of cardboard, a tile, or if you have one, a textured palette) and start scrubbing the brush.
The goal is to remove almost all the paint. At first, the brush will lay down a solid stroke of color. Keep scrubbing. You'll notice the mark getting weaker and weaker until it only leaves a dusty trace of pigment. That's the exact sweet spot. When you think "it's not painting anything anymore," that's when it's perfect.
A trick that never fails: before going near the miniature, do a test stroke on the back of your hand or a piece of paper. If it leaves a defined line of color, there's still too much paint. If it only leaves a subtle dusty trace, it's ready for action. 👍
Step 3: The execution: the master stroke
With the brush loaded to perfection (or rather, unloaded), it's time to paint. The magic lies in how you move the brush across the miniature.
The movement must be quick, light, and always sweeping perpendicular to the details you want to highlight. It's as if you're "caressing" the figure with the brush.
- On chainmail: if the rings form horizontal lines, move the brush up and down.
- For an animal's fur: follow the natural direction of the hair. It will give a much more realistic finish.
- On armor with sharp edges: pass the brush almost sideways, at about 45 degrees, so that only the edge picks up the pigment.
And most importantly: don't press down. Pressure should be minimal. It's far better to apply several light passes than a single heavy one, which can leave a rough finish or even scratch the paint.
Pro tip: layers and variations for expert results
Dry brushing doesn't end with a single layer of light. To take your figures to the next level, especially if you're working with Anycubic resin prints packed with ultra-fine details, you can play around with a few variations.
- Layered dry brushing: Start with a color slightly lighter than your base for a general pass. Then pick an even lighter tone and repeat the process, but this time focus only on the most prominent areas. You can finish with an almost white touch on the highest light points to create a very striking color transition.
- Overbrushing: This is a hybrid between a base coat and a dry brush. It's done with the brush loaded a little more than usual. The result is a softer transition, ideal for large surfaces with less texture, such as cloth or skin.
- Stippling (Stippling): Who said dry brushing is only for raised details? To create textures on smooth surfaces, such as rust or grime, load the brush a little more and instead of sweeping, dab it with small tapping motions. The effect is incredibly realistic.
Common dry brushing mistakes and how to fix them
Drybrushing is a brutal technique, but let's be honest: we've all gone through that frustrating phase at the beginning. You see those spectacular results online and, when you try it, your miniature looks like it's been in a fight with a bag of flour. Don't panic! Those mistakes are part of the learning process and, luckily, they have very simple solutions.
The idea is for you to dive in and experiment without fear of messing up. Let's look at the most common pitfalls so you know how to dodge or fix them.
The dreaded powdery or chalky finish
This is, without a doubt, the number one beginner mistake. You go over your figure and, instead of an elegant highlight, you end up with a matte, almost powdery finish that looks like it'll fall off with a puff of air. It's the classic "chalk" effect.
This problem crops up when the brush is too dry. When you wipe the paint off on highly absorbent kitchen paper, it doesn't just take away the excess paint — it also removes the binder (the "glue" that holds the pigment together). As a result, you're leaving pure, dry pigment on the miniature with nothing to fix it in place.
The solution is a very simple habit change:
- Don't use absorbent kitchen paper: A piece of cardboard, an old tile, or a texture palette work much better. These surfaces won't "steal" your binder.
- Slightly dampen the brush: Before loading the paint, barely moisten the bristles. Just touching a damp sponge is more than enough.
Has it already happened to you? Don't throw out the mini! If the finish has turned out chalky, it's an easy fix. Apply a very thin coat of satin or gloss varnish. This will rehydrate the pigment and restore the colour's intensity.
Scratches and brushstroke marks
Another classic. Instead of a smooth transition, your miniature is covered in streaks and colour scratches. This usually happens for two reasons: either you're pressing too hard or the brush isn't the right one. Remember that drybrushing on miniatures is a caress, not a scrub.
To avoid it, the key is patience and a light touch. It's far better to make five quick, light passes than one single forceful stroke. If the problem persists, take a look at your brush. A denser brush with a rounded tip will help you blend the colour more effectively.
Staining the recesses that should stay dark
This is the exact opposite of what we're going for. If you end up painting over the shadows too, the cause is very simple: your brush still had too much paint on it.
It's the impatient painter's mistake. The solution is to be more methodical when wiping off:
- Keep wiping: When you think it's no longer painting, wipe a little more on your palette or cardboard.
- Do a test: Before going near the figure, make a quick pass on the back of your thumb. If it leaves a solid, opaque colour mark, keep wiping.
Good maintenance of your tools is key to avoiding many of these problems. If you want to take it a step further, we recommend our guide on how to clean your acrylic paint brushes so they last you a lifetime.
Tips for drybrushing resin and FDM miniatures
Painting a 3D printed figure is not the same as painting a traditional injection-moulded plastic one. Drybrushing for miniatures really shines in the world of 3D printing, but you need to know how to adapt it to each material.
Highlighting the details of resin miniatures
Resin miniatures are amazing for their level of detail. Materials like Elegoo or Anycubic 3D resins capture tiny textures that are the perfect playground for a good dry brush.
Since the resin surface is so smooth, contrast is your best weapon.
- Dark primer, always: Start with a black primer or a very dark grey to create a base of deep shadows.
- Thin layers and patience: Apply the dry brush with very light strokes and build up the effect in several layers, working up to lighter tones.
- Varnish, the finishing touch: When you're done, a coat of varnish (matte or satin) will unify the finish and protect the paint.
One innovation that's generating a lot of buzz is texture palettes for dry brushing. If you want to take a look, you can find out more about these textured palettes here.
Disguising layer lines in FDM prints
Filament prints (FDM) have one clear enemy: layer lines. The good news is that dry brushing is a fantastic tool for camouflaging them.
The trick with FDM is to use dry brushing to create a "surface texture" that tricks the eye and makes layer lines fade into the background.
To achieve this, the strategy is a little different:
- Filler primer: Use a spray primer of the "filler" type to smooth out the lines before painting.
- Strategic strokes: When dry brushing, do it with strokes perpendicular to the layer lines. This breaks up their visual monotony.
- A little stippling: On large, flat surfaces, combine dry brushing with small stippling touches to add an irregular texture.
Applying paint properly is the foundation of everything. That's why we recommend taking a look at our article on how to use Vallejo Game Color to paint resin prints, where you'll find more tips that will come in very handy.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions about dry brushing
It's normal to have a thousand questions when starting out with a new technique. Here we've compiled the most common questions about dry brushing for miniatures. Let's answer them!
Does any type of paint work?
The best paint for dry brushing is an acrylic with body and high pigmentation, such as those from the Vallejo Game Color or Citadel Base range. Avoid very liquid paints like inks or washes, as they will run into the recesses and ruin the effect.
How do I care for my brushes so they don't get ruined?
Dry brushing is hard on bristles. To extend their life, clean them right after use with warm water and a brush-specific soap. Work the base of the bristles thoroughly and always dry them horizontally or upside down. An occasional conditioner also helps keep them flexible.
In what order do I apply dry brushing alongside other techniques?
The ideal order for a professional finish is key. The sequence that never fails is:
- Base Color: The main color layer.
- Washing or Ink (Wash): To create shadows in recesses. Let it dry completely.
- Dry Brushing: To highlight edges and textures.
- Glazes (Glazes): (Optional) To tone colors or smooth transitions.
Conclusion: Time to Get That Brush Moving!
You now have in your arsenal one of the most rewarding and effective techniques in the hobby world. Dry brushing for miniatures is a brutally effective tool that, as you've seen, will give you spectacular results with very little effort.
The final tip: If you take away just one thing, let it be this: unload your brush. When you think it has no more paint left, unload it a little more. That's where 90% of the success lies. Less is more!
Theory is all well and good, but the real learning happens when you get your hands dirty. Grab a test mini and start experimenting.
So you have everything you need, we invite you to stop by our store. At Mr Resin you'll find everything from specific brushes to the best resins for 3D printers to print your next works of art.
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✨Happy Printing! 🚀