How to Paint 3D Printed Miniatures: The Complete Mr. Resin Guide

Painting 3D printed miniatures is easier than it looks; the real secret isn't in the painting technique, but in flawless preparation of the piece. To achieve a professional finish, it's crucial to properly wash and cure the resin, remove supports without leaving marks, and apply a good primer coat before starting to add color.

How do you prepare a 3D miniature for painting?

Preparing a resin figure is 90% of the success when painting 3D printed miniatures. This first step ensures the paint adheres well and every detail stands out. In my experience, following a ritual from the moment the piece comes off the printer until it's ready for priming changes everything. I've tried it all and this is the method that never fails me.

1. Cleaning and curing the miniature

The first and most important step is washing. You need to remove every last trace of liquid resin. If you skip this step, you'll end up with sticky areas that will ruin the paint job and the mini's details.

My method is pretty straightforward:

• Double bath in isopropyl alcohol (IPA): I always use two containers. The first with "dirty" alcohol to remove the bulk of the resin and the second with clean IPA for the final rinse. I use a soft brush to make sure I reach every nook and cranny.
• Air drying: After the bath, I let the piece dry completely, usually between 30 and 60 minutes. Sometimes I use compressed air to speed up the process. The important thing is that not a single drop of alcohol remains.
• UV curing: With the mini clean and dry, I put it in the UV curing station (hardening of the resin using ultraviolet light). The time depends on the resin and the size, but it's usually around 3-5 minutes. Don't forget to rotate it so the light reaches all sides evenly. Be careful, excessive curing can make the resin brittle.

A tip from a fellow maker: Noticed a sticky spot after curing? That means it wasn't cleaned properly. Don't worry. Wipe that area with an IPA cotton swab and cure it again. It works 99% of the time.

2. Support removal and sanding

With the miniature cured and hard, it's time for "surgery" and removing the supports. Here, delicacy is key. I use a good pair of flush cutters and snip the supports leaving a small stub — never flush with the surface.

Once removed, I sand those small stubs with fine-grit sandpaper (between 400 and 800) or modelling files. Patience is your best ally; proper sanding makes a brutal difference and is the secret to making the resins for miniatures you choose shine in all their glory.

The 3D printing community keeps growing. Many makers report that the quality of their pieces has improved enormously by paying more attention to this step. If you want to know more about the prior process, take a look at my guide on how to print 3D miniatures.

3. Filling imperfections

No matter how careful you are, sometimes a small mark remains. To fix it, I use plastic putty or a little UV resin. My favourite is Green Stuff putty or Vallejo's, which applies wonderfully with a small spatula.

I apply a minimal amount, smooth it with a brush dampened with water and, once dry, one final gentle pass with the sandpaper. Now your miniature is truly ready for glory.

Why is priming so important for resin miniatures?

Priming is the most decisive and underestimated step when painting 3D printed miniatures. It acts as the bridge between the smooth resin and the paint, creating a surface with "grip". Without this base, paint runs off, chips at the slightest touch or leaves a patchy finish, ruining all your previous work.

I've lost count of how many times I've seen other hobbyists get frustrated because the colors don't pop or the paint peels off. And I can assure you that 99% of the time, the culprit is a missing or poorly applied primer. In my experience, skipping this step is a complete waste of time.

Your best ally: primer spray

For me, the most effective tool is a good primer spray. It lets you apply an ultra-thin, even coat in seconds. I recommend trying a Vallejo primer spray, which offers exceptional grip and a finish that respects every detail.

The correct technique is to apply short, quick passes at around 20-30 cm distance. It is better to apply several thin coats, allowing drying time between them, than a single thick coat. And, of course, always do it in a well-ventilated area.

What primer color should I use?

The primer color influences your entire painting scheme. It is not a decision to take lightly, as each tone creates a different canvas for the colors you will apply on top.

To make it clear, I have prepared a table to quickly decide which color to use based on the finish you are looking for.

My personal tip: If you don't have an airbrush, you can achieve a spectacular zenithal primer using just spray cans. Start with a base coat of black. Once dry, do a quick pass with grey spray from a 45º angle. To finish, a very light touch of white spray from directly above. The effect is incredible!

If you want to dive deeper into this topic, I recommend my complete guide on the importance of primer for miniatures.

How do I apply base colors to my miniature?

Applying base colors is the moment your figure takes on personality. This step involves covering the different areas of the miniature with their main color in a clean and uniform way. The secret lies not in the amount of paint, but in thinning it correctly so it doesn't obscure the details you worked so hard to print.

My golden rule is to always apply two thin coats. Forget about picking paint straight from the pot; that only creates a thick, pasty layer that swallows up details.

The two thin coats technique

From experience, I can tell you the perfect consistency is that of skimmed milk. To achieve it, I put a drop of paint on my wet palette and add one or two small drops of water. The first coat will be thin, almost transparent. That's exactly what I'm going for!

Let it dry for around 5-10 minutes and apply the second coat. You'll see how the color becomes solid, rich, and perfectly smooth.

My veteran tip: Do yourself a favor and invest in a good wet palette. It keeps your paint fresh for hours. Once you try it, you'll wonder how you ever managed without it.

What paints and tools do I need?

Before you start, think about your color scheme. When it comes to paints, I'm a devoted fan of acrylics. In my experience, the Game Color range by Vallejo is fantastic for its pigmentation and enormous color range.

The eternal question is: brushes or airbrush?

• Brush: It is the essential tool. You will need at least a couple of decent brushes: a medium one (size 1 or 2) for larger areas and a fine one (size 0 or 00) for details.
• Airbrush: If you are looking for speed and smooth finishes, the airbrush is your machine, ideal for base coats on vehicles or monsters.

The best approach is to combine both. I often use the airbrush for the main colors and reach for a brush for the details. If you want to know more, check out my beginner's guide to miniature painting.

How can I add depth with washes?

A wash is the technique that transforms a flat miniature into a piece with volume and realism in minutes. It involves applying very diluted paint that pools in the recesses, creating natural shadows that bring out the details in an almost magical way. It is a technique with a stunning visual impact.

If you have just applied your base colors and the mini has a slightly "toy-like" look, washing is your next mandatory stop.

How do you apply a wash correctly?

The secret is controlling where the paint goes. I am a big fan of Game Color washes, which come with the perfect consistency straight from the pot.

My method is very straightforward:

1. Load the brush: Use a medium one (size 1 or 2) and get it nicely wet.
2. Remove the excess: Wipe the surplus on kitchen paper. The brush should be damp, not dripping.
3. Apply to specific areas: Focus on folds, cracks and around rivets.
4. Control the excess: If too much accumulates, clean the brush, dry it and use it to absorb the surplus.

The goal is for the wash to stay in the recesses, not to stain the entire surface. This technique is not the same as glazing. If you are curious, I recommend my guide on the glazing technique.

A Mr. Resin tip: Did you go too far and leave a smudge? While it is still fresh, a damp cotton swab works wonders. If it has already dried, simply repaint that area with the base color and repeat the wash with more control.

How do I paint highlights and final details?

Highlighting the miniature is the most enjoyable part and where the magic happens. This step separates a simply painted figure from one that looks like it is about to leap off the base. It involves applying lighter colors to the raised areas to simulate how light falls on them, creating incredible volume and realism.

The best techniques for highlighting miniatures

Here are my two favorite techniques, one for beginners and one for a more professional finish.

• Dry brushing (dry brushing): It's embarrassingly easy and gives spectacular results on textures like chainmail, fur, or stone. Load an old brush with a light color, wipe it almost completely clean on paper, and gently rub over the surface. The paint will only settle on the raised areas. Don't use your good brushes for this!
• Layered highlights and edge highlighting (edge highlighting): For a cleaner result, apply progressively lighter colors over progressively smaller areas. Edge highlighting is the finishing touch: trace a fine line with a very light color along all edges to define the shapes. Good pigmentation like that found in the Game Color range is your best ally here.

By the way, a good primer makes all the difference. The adhesion of a Vallejo primer spray on resin is far superior to what it achieves on filament, which helps these techniques come out more precisely. For more technical analysis, I recommend checking out the experts at Art-W Studio.

The small details that tell a story

A miniature comes to life through its details. For eyes, my advice is to paint the eyeball in off-white and draw a thin vertical line in black. For gems and lenses, create a gradient from dark to light and finish with a dot of pure white in the upper corner.

Why should I varnish my painted miniature?

Varnish is the invisible shield that protects your work. This final step, which takes five minutes, ensures your colors stay intact for years, protecting them from scratches, finger grease, and dust. It also unifies the finish, eliminating unwanted shine.

The choice of finish completely changes how your miniature is perceived:

• Matte: You'll use this 90% of the time. It kills any shine and is ideal for cloth, skin, wood, or stone.
• Satin: A middle ground, with a subtle sheen. Perfect for leather or certain types of armor.
• Gloss: Use it only on specific areas to simulate wetness effects, slime, gems, or polished metals.

My personal trick: I give the entire miniature a general coat with a good matte spray varnish. Once dry, I apply gloss varnish with a brush to the details I want to stand out. The contrast is spectacular.

If you want to master this topic, I've dedicated a complete guide to my article on using varnish on miniatures.

Frequently asked questions (FAQ) about how to paint 3D miniatures

Here I've gathered the most common questions I always receive so you can get started without hesitation.

Can I paint a 3D miniature without priming?

The short answer is: you shouldn't. Without primer, acrylic paint has no grip, it will chip easily, and you'll need many coats, obscuring the details.

What type of paint is best for resin miniatures?

In my experience, water-based acrylic paints are the best option. I recommend ranges like Game Color, which clean up with water, dry quickly, and have fantastic pigmentation.

Do you need an airbrush to paint well?

Not at all. An airbrush speeds up the work, but it's not essential. With a decent set of brushes and by mastering basic techniques like drybrushing or washes, you can achieve professional results.

My paint comes out thick and with brush marks, what am I doing wrong?

This is the most common mistake. The solution is simple: always thin your paint until it has a consistency similar to milk and apply two thin coats instead of one thick one.

Is it really necessary to varnish the miniature at the end?

Yes, absolutely. It's the step that protects all your hard work from dust, scratches and finger grease, ensuring your work stands the test of time.

Conclusion:

And that's a wrap, friend! As you've seen, painting 3D printed miniatures is more a process of patience and preparation than having innate talent. Start with a good clean, never skip the primer, always thin your paint and dare to experiment with washes and highlights. I guarantee that with these tips, your next figures are going to level up in ways you can't even imagine. Now, go give those brushes a workout!