Guide to Printing and Painting Your Warhammer Orcs with 3D Resin

The perfect resin for your Warhammer orcs depends on how you're going to use them: for massive armies where speed is gold, I recommend water-washable 3D resins; for a hero or elite unit with spectacular details, an ABS-Like or high-definition resin is the best move.

What is the best 3D resin for printing Warhammer orcs?

Choosing the right resin is the first step to making sure your Waaagh! has the look and toughness you need on the gaming table. Not all resins are equal; each one offers specific advantages for the raw, detailed designs of orcs. In my experience, the most practical approach is to think about the miniature's role.

For troops and massive armies

When you commit to printing a horde of 50 Boyz, the post-processing time (cleaning and curing the pieces) can turn into a nightmare. That's exactly when water-washable 3D resins become your best allies.

• Speed above all: Being able to clean the pieces directly with tap water, without handling isopropyl alcohol, speeds up the process enormously.
• Convenience: They give off a less strong smell, and your nose will thank you during long printing sessions. 😉

Of course they have their weak point: they are somewhat more fragile. The axes, spikes and other thin parts of your orcs could break if they fall. That's why I mainly use them for basic infantry, where numbers matter more than individual durability.

A house tip: To give them extra toughness, I've tried curing the minis a little longer than normal. With an extra 30-60 seconds under the UV lamp they tend to harden quite a bit more, though don't overdo it or they'll become brittle.

For heroes and elite units

For that imposing Warboss, a Mekboy loaded with gadgets or a squad of Meganobz, you're looking for two things: brutal detail and bomb-proof durability. This is where ABS-Like resins are, for me, the winning option. They mimic the properties of ABS plastic, giving them a flexibility and impact resistance far superior to standard resins. They hold up much better to the wear and tear of gaming sessions.

If what you want is to push the level of detail to the maximum, you also have high-definition or 8K/12K resins. They are amazing for capturing every last crack in a suit of armor, but of course, their price is higher. To help you decide, I've put together a very handy comparison table here.

As you can see, each resin has its moment and place. The key is to balance your detail needs, budget, and the time you want to dedicate to post-processing. If you'd like to find out more, I recommend taking a look at my complete guide on resin for 3D printers.

How do I get a perfect 3D-printed orc?

The key to a perfect print lies in the slicer, the program that prepares the 3D model. Good preparation here accounts for 90% of the work and will save you hours of washing and resin. This is where you decide whether you're going to produce display-worthy Warhammer orcs or a bundle of frustration.

The first thing I learned, through trial and error, is to stop printing minis completely upright. My golden tip is to always tilt them about 45 degrees backwards. Why? Very simple: by doing so, the support marks end up in less visible areas, such as the back or under the arms. This protects what is most visible: the face, chest, and weapons.

Supports: your best allies (if you use them correctly)

This is where many beginners stumble. It's not about filling the mini with supports haphazardly, but about creating an intelligent structure that holds it in place without leaving battle scars. The trick that never fails me is to combine different thicknesses.

• Light Supports: I use these for almost everything. They're great for fine details —fingers, teeth, the edges of a loincloth— because they come off beautifully and barely leave a mark.
• Medium/Heavy Supports: These are the pillars. I place them at strategic points that will bear the weight, such as the boots (the first part to be printed) or those enormous axes that some orcs carry. A couple of sturdy supports here and you ensure the piece doesn't detach.

If you want to become a master of this technique, I recommend taking a look at my guide on how to improve supports for your 3D resin prints. There I share a few more secrets.

Print settings and the forgotten FEP film

With the supports ready, the moment of truth arrives: adjusting the exposure settings. These values depend a lot on your 3D printer and the resin you use, but here are some figures that usually work like a charm for me as a starting point.

• Standard Resin (grey, for example): I usually work between 2 and 3 seconds per layer, with a layer height of 0.05 mm.
• Opaque Resins (black or white): Watch out with these, as they block UV light more. Here I increase the exposure time a little, to around 3 or 4 seconds per layer, to ensure everything cures as it should.

And finally, something I'll never tire of repeating: take care of your FEP/nFEP film. That transparent sheet at the bottom of the vat is a very common cause of failed prints. If it's scratched or damaged, you're going to have problems. If you see it looking cloudy or marked, don't risk it; in my store you'll find FEP/nFEP replacements.

How do I correctly wash and cure orc miniatures?

Correct post-processing is crucial to avoid a sticky, brittle miniature with clogged details. This is the moment to wash away the leftover liquid resin and give the piece its final hardness with UV light. There's nothing sadder than an orc that doesn't intimidate, so let's get it ready for battle!

Classic method with isopropyl alcohol (IPA)

This is the traditional method and, in my opinion, it remains the most effective for most resins. Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) is an extremely powerful solvent that leaves pieces spotless. I always recommend using two containers:

1. First bath (the dirty "broth"): I submerge the freshly printed piece and move it gently for 1-2 minutes. With a soft toothbrush, I carefully scrub to remove the bulk of the resin.
2. Second bath (the clean IPA): After the first washing, I move it to a second container with fresh alcohol. Here 30 seconds is more than enough.

This two-bath system is a great trick for extending the life of your alcohol. If you want to learn more about how to handle this product, don't miss my complete guide on the use of isopropyl alcohol in resin 3D printing.

The quick method with water-washable resin

When you're printing a whole bunch of Boyz, every minute counts. In these cases, water-washable 3D resins are an absolute blessing. The process is very similar, but we swap the IPA for simple tap water.

That said, be careful! Never pour water containing resin residue down the drain. The right way to handle it is to leave it in a transparent container in the sun. The UV light will solidify the residue, and you can filter it out and dispose of it in the regular bin.

My golden tip: Remove the supports AFTER washing the piece, but BEFORE the final curing. At that exact moment, the resin is firm but still has a degree of flexibility. This makes the supports pop off much more easily, reducing the risk of breaking fine details.

The final curing: don't overdo the UV

Once you have your figure clean and completely dry (I mean it, dry!), it's time to give it its final hardness. UV curing (hardening resin using ultraviolet light) is what fully solidifies the resin. Overdoing it is just as bad as underdoing it.

Over-curing is a very common beginner's mistake. If you leave the mini under UV light for too long, the resin becomes excessively hard and brittle. Keep a close eye on your times and your Waaagh! will be ready to wreak havoc.

What painting techniques do I use to bring my orcs to life?

To really bring your Warhammer orcs to life, the secret lies in contrast. I love combining a vivid, bright green skin tone with grimy, rusted clothing and metals. In the end, it's all about getting your hands dirty and enjoying the process. Let's get into it!

Priming is a non-negotiable step. It creates a base coat with a perfect grip and brings out details you didn't even know were there. For me, the airbrush is king, and I'm an absolute fan of the Vallejo Surface Primer range. If you want to dive deeper, I've put together a complete guide on how to prime miniatures like a pro.

With the mini already primed, the fun part begins. For this, nothing beats having a good selection of Vallejo paints at hand.

How to paint the iconic green skin of orcs

The skin is the soul of an orc. Getting that tone to look real and with depth is simpler than you think if you follow a logical order. Here's my personal recipe:

1. Base Coat: I apply two thin coats of a mid-green like Goblin Green.
2. Shading: I apply a wash of dark green or black ink, like Green Wash, letting it settle into all the recesses.
3. First Highlight: Once the ink is dry, I go back to Goblin Green and paint the raised areas of the muscles, leaving the shadows visible.
4. Final Highlight: I mix the base green with a touch of yellow (Livery Green) and add a final highlight only on the most prominent points: knuckles, tip of the nose, etc.

This layering process gives incredible volume. If you want to go deeper, I recommend my article on colour theory for miniatures.

Rusted metals and worn leather

Any self-respecting orc carries battered gear. For their weapons and armour, I always go for a heavily rusted metallic look.

I start with a base of a dark metallic, like Gunmetal Grey. Over this base, I apply a generous wash of Black Wash and, while it's still wet, I take the opportunity to add touches of Umber Wash (a brown) to simulate rust.

My trick for insane rust effects: For a more powerful effect, I reach for pigments. An orange or reddish-brown applied dry with an old brush and fixed with matte varnish gives a spectacular result. Give it a try!

For leather, the formula is simple: a base of Leather Brown, a black wash to define the stitching and, to finish, I highlight the edges with a lighter tone like Beasty Brown.

My basic colour palette for Warhammer orcs

Here's a table with my personal selection of Vallejo Game Color paints. For me, these are the essentials to start painting any orc clan.

If you prefer using an airbrush, the Game Air range is fantastic for achieving super smooth transitions on skin or creating light effects on weapons incredibly fast. Don't be afraid to experiment!

Frequently asked questions about printing and painting Warhammer orcs

What do I do if my orc miniatures feel sticky after curing?

A sticky mini is almost always caused by improper washing or incomplete drying. Make sure to give it a thorough bath in isopropyl alcohol and, most importantly, ensure it is completely dry before putting it under UV light for curing.

How do I prevent thin spears and axes from breaking?

This is a veteran tip: remove the supports right after washing, but before fully curing the miniature. At that point, the resin is firm but still retains some flexibility, which allows the supports to snap off cleanly without breaking the fragile parts.

Is it better to use a brush or an airbrush to paint orc skin?

It depends on the finish you're going for — neither is better than the other. Brushes give you control for a defined texture, ideal for muscles, while the airbrush is king for smooth transitions and saves time when working on armies.

Conclusion:

We've reached the end of the road, and I hope you now feel more eager than ever to build your own Warhammer orc army. We've covered everything from choosing the right resin to bringing them to life with paint so they command respect on the gaming table. There's no magic formula — just practice and a willingness to experiment.

If you'll allow me one last piece of advice from one fellow maker to another: don't hold back when it comes to trying new things. The so-called "mistakes" are nothing more than lessons that toughen you up for the next project. I've seen people who didn't even know what resin was end up leading a jaw-dropping Waaagh! Now it's your turn!