PLA+ vs PLA: Real Differences and When to Choose | Mr Resin

The main difference between PLA and PLA+ is that PLA+ is an improved version of traditional PLA filament, with added additives to enhance its strength, flexibility, and surface finish. While standard PLA is perfect for decorative parts due to its ease of use and low cost, PLA+ filament is the ideal option for functional parts that need to withstand more demanding use.

In my experience, the choice is simple: if the part is just going to sit on a shelf, regular PLA. If it has to do something, like bear weight or snap-fit into place, PLA+ is your best ally.

What exactly is PLA+ filament?

PLA+ is an advanced formulation of good old PLA, designed to overcome its mechanical limitations. Simply put, manufacturers take the base recipe of PLA (polylactic acid) and add a secret blend of additives — generally polymers such as TPU or impact modifiers — that give it greater strength, toughness, and flexibility.

Think of it like the difference between a standard car and its "Sport" version. On the outside they look similar, but on the inside, PLA+ has improvements that allow it to hold up much better. I've seen it countless times in the workshop: a part printed in regular PLA snaps in a brittle way when bent, while the same part in PLA+ flexes a little before giving way. That small difference is crucial for functional parts.

What are the real differences between PLA and PLA+?

The most notable differences are greater impact resistance, superior flexibility, and a cleaner surface finish. While standard PLA is rigid and brittle, PLA+ is tougher (less fragile), allowing it to better absorb impacts and stress without breaking immediately.

In my day-to-day use, this translates into much more durable parts. On top of that, the finish tends to be more satin or matte, which helps conceal layer lines and gives the final print a more professional look. Less sanding for me! 😉

When is it worth paying the difference for PLA+?

It is worth paying the extra for PLA+ when the part you are going to print has a mechanical function, will be subject to stress, or you need a flawless finish without post-processing. For purely decorative parts that won't be handled, standard PLA remains a fantastic and more affordable option.

I've tried printing hinges, supports and enclosures for my electronics projects. Standard PLA parts often fail at the first tightening of a screw or after moderate use. PLA+ parts, on the other hand, hold up like champions.

These are the cases where, in my experience, I have no hesitation in using PLA+:

• Functional parts: Tool supports, gears, drone casings, hinges... anything that needs to withstand force.
• Fit prototypes: If you need to test how several parts fit together (press fits), the greater strength of PLA+ prevents breakage.
• Wargaming miniatures: The more matte surface is an ideal base for primers, and the greater strength protects against accidental drops.
• Long and complex prints: A good PLA+ usually has a more consistent diameter, which reduces the risk of clogs during multi-hour prints.

Do I need to change the print settings for PLA+?

Yes, but it's a minimal change. To print with PLA+ you generally only need to increase the nozzle temperature by 10 to 15 °C compared to what you use for regular PLA. You don't need to recalibrate your entire 3D printer or anything like that.

This small temperature increase is key to allowing the additives to flow correctly and achieve optimal layer fusion, which is where PLA+ gets most of its extra strength.

Here are the settings I usually tweak:

• Nozzle temperature: If you print PLA at 200 °C, try starting PLA+ at 210-215 °C.
• Bed temperature: Generally no need to change it. Around 50-60 °C is more than enough.
• Retraction: Being slightly more liquid, it sometimes produces more stringing. If this happens, increase the retraction distance or speed slightly.
• Print speed: Once you have the temperature dialed in, many PLA+ filaments allow you to print even faster than standard filament.

My golden tip: always run a temperature tower with each new spool. It's the best way to find the sweet spot and ensure perfect prints.

What are the best PLA+ filaments available in 2026?

After testing an indecent number of brands, I've learned that consistency is the key. If I had to recommend a couple of reliable options I always keep in my workshop, they would without a doubt be Anycubic's. They offer incredible value for money and the results are consistently great.

These are my two workhorses:

1. Anycubic PLA+ with RFID: If you have a compatible 3D printer, it's a dream. The machine detects the filament and adjusts the settings automatically. Less configuration hassle and more time printing. I've tried it and it's an absolute joy!
2. Anycubic High Speed PLA: This is my go-to filament when I need speed without sacrificing strength. It's optimized for next-generation 3D printers and the results at high speeds are spectacular.

My final tip: always store your filament properly. Moisture is the arch-enemy of any spool. A sealed bag with desiccant will save you a lot of headaches and failed prints.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) about PLA+ vs PLA

Can I use PLA+ in any 3D printer that uses regular PLA?

Yes, without any issues. If your FDM 3D printer can print with standard PLA filament, it can also use PLA+ filament without requiring any hardware modifications.

Is PLA+ harder to print than PLA?

No, it's not harder, but it does require a small temperature adjustment. Generally, raising the nozzle temperature by about 10-15 °C is enough to get the best results and maximum strength.

Does PLA+ smell more when printing?

In my experience, the smell is practically identical to regular PLA: a very subtle, slightly sweet aroma. Both are excellent materials for printing indoors without generating unpleasant odors like other plastics.

Do I need a heated bed to print PLA+?

While it's not strictly required for small parts, I highly recommend using a heated bed at around 50-60 °C. This ensures perfect first layer adhesion and almost completely prevents the warping effect (corners lifting up).

Can PLA+ be painted and sanded the same as PLA?

Yes, and in my opinion, even better. PLA+ sands very easily and its more matte finish provides an excellent surface for paints and primers to adhere perfectly.

Conclusion: My final verdict as a maker

After burning through kilos and kilos of both materials, my conclusion is clear: PLA+ filament is the new standard for any maker looking to create functional and durable parts. The small price difference is more than justified in reliability, strength and finish quality.

Traditional PLA filament remains a great and affordable option for quick visual prototypes, decorative figures or proof-of-concept tests. But if your part needs to withstand wear, press-fit together or you simply want a professional finish straight from the 3D printer, PLA+ is not an expense — it's a smart investment.

My advice is simple: give it a chance. Once you hold a part made with PLA+ in your hands and feel the difference in strength and finish, I promise it'll be very hard to go back. 😉