Creating 3D resin figures is one of those hobbies that gets you hooked. 🤩 It's the perfect blend of technology and art, where you can bring to life everything from video game characters and wargame miniatures to your own designs, all with a level of detail that will leave you speechless.
Unlike traditional 3D printers (filament ones), here we use liquid resin that solidifies layer by layer with UV light. The result is brutal precision, ideal for any creation that needs lots of detail.
Why 3D resin printing will change your hobby forever
Can you imagine having a perfect replica of your favorite character on your shelf? Or leading an army of miniatures you've created from scratch? Well, that's what 3D resin printing is all about: taking scale modeling and wargames to the next level. 🎨
The secret is that resin is capable of capturing tiny details. We're talking about textures on armor, facial expressions, or decorations that you previously only saw on professional production pieces. This obsession with detail has caused its popularity to skyrocket, creating a community of enthusiasts that keeps growing.
The boom of resin figures in Spain 🇪🇸
In Spain, this hobby is living through a true golden age. To give you an idea, the 3D printing sector was generating around 100 million euros in 2020, and is expected to surpass 10.125 billion euros before 2027. 📈
Part of this surge is due to the fact that, during the pandemic, awareness of this technology grew by 71%. Suddenly, everyone wanted to print their own miniatures. If you want to dive deeper into these figures, you can take a look at this comprehensive analysis from the University of Valladolid.
This growth has been key to the emergence of specialized stores like Mr Resin, which have become the gathering point for the community. Whether you're a newcomer or a veteran, here you'll find everything you need:
- High-quality resins: Brands like Anycubic or Elegoo have options for all tastes and budgets.
- Latest-generation printers: With resolutions that capture every last wrinkle on an orc.
- Tools and paints: Everything you need for finishing, including the legendary Vallejo paints.
Resin vs Filament for your figures 🤔
If you're just starting out, this is the million-dollar question: resin or filament? For making 3D resin figures, the answer is pretty clear, but so you have no doubts, we've put together a quick comparison.
Quick comparison: Resin vs Filament (FDM) for figures
This table will help you see at a glance why resin is queen when it comes to miniatures and detailed figures.
| Feature | Resin Printing (SLA/DLP/LCD) | Filament Printing (FDM) |
|---|---|---|
| Level of Detail | 💎 Exceptional. Perfect for fine textures, faces, and minuscule details. | 🔧 Good. Layers are visible, which affects the smallest details. |
| Surface Finish | ✨ Very smooth. Surfaces are soft and usually don't require much post-processing. | 📉 Rough. Layer lines are evident and often require sanding. |
| Printing Speed | 🚀 Fast. Prints an entire layer at once, regardless of how many parts there are. | 🐢 Slow. The print head must travel across the entire part for each layer. |
| Mechanical Strength | 💪 Lower. Parts are more fragile, although ABS-like resins improve this. | 튼튼 Higher. Ideal for functional parts that need to withstand stress. |
| Ease of Use | 🧑🔬 Requires more steps. Involves cleaning with alcohol and UV curing. | ✅ Simpler. The process is more straightforward, although calibration can be complex. |
For figures, where detail is everything, resin has no rival. The smooth finish and ability to capture fine details make it the preferred choice for most makers and miniature painters.
Your starter kit for resin 3D printing 🛠️
To ensure your first resin 3D figures come out of the printer with an incredible level of detail, the first step is to equip yourself properly. 🚀 Don't imagine you need a space laboratory, but you do need a couple of key tools to get off on the right foot. Let's take a look at what you need to set up your workshop.
Choosing your first resin printer
The printer is the heart of the whole setup. When you start looking at models, you'll come across three factors that change everything: the plate size, the speed, and most importantly, the resolution.
Resolution is measured in "K" (4K, 8K, 14K) and is what defines the level of detail you'll achieve. To start out, a 4K printer already gives you more than decent quality. That said, if your goal is to print miniatures for board games or busts with complex textures, an 8K like the Elegoo Saturn 2 is the perfect balance between price and detail. The 14K models, such as those in the Anycubic Photon series, are already in the high-end range, designed for display pieces or jewellery, where every micron counts.
A word of friendly advice: 😉 Don't let yourself be blinded by resolution alone. The size of the build plate is just as critical. With a larger plate, you can print several figures at once or tackle more ambitious pieces, which saves you a ton of time and resin.
The world of resins — which one do you need?
Not all resins behave the same way. 🧪 Each type has a very specific purpose, and getting the choice right is the difference between a spectacular figure and one that breaks when you look at it.
Here's a quick cheat sheet so you don't get lost:
- Standard Resin: The ideal choice for your first steps. It's affordable, easy to print with, and delivers great results. Perfect for testing, getting the hang of things, and creating decorative figures.
- ABS-Like Resin: Are you going to use your figures in wargames sessions? This is your resin. It's more impact-resistant and has some flexibility, so your barbarian's sword or your orc's arm won't snap at the first drop.
- Water-Washable Resin (Water Washable): It simplifies your life like you wouldn't believe. Instead of wrestling with isopropyl alcohol (IPA), you clean your pieces with tap water and you're done. It's safer, smells less, and is much more comfortable to handle. 💧
- Flexible Resin: Can you imagine printing a cloak that moves or tentacles that won't break? This resin is amazing for adding realism and durability to specific parts of your figures that need a little give.
Your safety and consumables arsenal 🥽
Let's get to the serious part: safety is non-negotiable. Liquid resin is toxic, so you always need to protect yourself. You'll also need to keep some basic consumables on hand so you're not left stranded halfway through a print.
Add these to your shopping list:
- Nitrile gloves: Essential. Always wear them whenever you're going to touch liquid resin or freshly printed pieces.
- Mask with organic vapor filters: Resin vapors are irritating. Good ventilation and a proper mask are mandatory. A dust mask won't cut it. 😷
- Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA): Unless you switch to water-washable resin, you'll need it to clean your pieces, the build plate, and your tools.
- Spare FEP/ACF films: The transparent plastic at the bottom of the resin tank wears down with use. Having a couple of replacements on hand will save you a headache over the weekend.
If tracking all of this down separately feels overwhelming, a great option is to start with a complete kit. To make things easy for you, we've put together an Essential Resin 3D Printing Pack that includes everything you need to get started without any hassle. ✨
How to prepare your 3D model for a perfect print
You've got your printer and resin ready. Now the real magic begins — the cerebral part of the process: preparing the digital model. 🧠 It's right here, in front of the computer, where you decide whether your print will be a success or a sticky disaster. With slicer programs like Chitubox or Lychee Slicer, you'll convert a simple STL file into the precise instructions for your machine to create something incredible.
The trick is built on three pillars you'll master in no time: model orientation, support placement, and hollowing. If you get these three points down, you've won more than half the battle when it comes to producing flawless 3D resin figures.
As you can see, everything starts with the right equipment: the printer, the resin, and of course, safety. From there, the software is your best ally.
Orientation is everything
First commandment of resin printing: never, ever print a figure completely flat and parallel to the build plate. It's the quintessential beginner mistake and a recipe for disaster. 🚫
The key is to angle the model between 30 and 45 degrees. Why? By tilting the figure, each new layer that is printed has a much smaller surface area. This drastically reduces the suction forces that pull on the piece every time the build plate separates from the FEP film.
This simple step gives you two huge advantages:
- You protect the important details: The most delicate parts, such as a face, the textures of an armor, or a thin sword, will be facing upward, away from where you will place the supports.
- You minimize marks: By placing the supports in less visible areas (the back, under the arms, the base), the sanding work you will need to do afterward will be minimal. A few passes and you're done.
Think of it like being a surgeon. 👨⚕️ You wouldn't make an incision in the middle of a face, would you? Well, this is exactly the same. Always protect the areas you want to look perfect by orienting them so that the supports don't touch them.
Supports: the scaffolding of your figures
Supports are the temporary skeleton that holds your figure together as it is created layer by layer. The automatic mode in slicers is a good starting point, especially at the beginning, but if you're looking for truly professional results, you need to learn to step in and place them yourself. 🧐
The software lets you view the piece layer by layer. Your mission is to hunt down "islands": any point that starts printing in mid-air, with nothing underneath to hold it up. Each one of those islands needs a support. If you don't add one, that part will cure in mid-air and end up as a piece of resin floating in the tank.
Learn to work with the different types of supports:
- Light: Perfect for very fine details and delicate areas. They barely leave a mark when removed.
- Medium: These are the all-rounders. You'll use them 90% of the time. They provide a good balance between hold and ease of removal.
- Heavy: Reserve these for the lowest and most massive parts of the figure — the ones that need to bear the full weight of the model while it prints.
A slicer like Chitubox gives you full control to add, delete, and modify each support with almost surgical precision. Mastering this part is essential.
Hollowing out figures to save resin and succeed
Are you going to print a 20 cm tall dragon? 🐲 If you print it solid, not only will you burn through half a bottle of resin, but the print will most likely fail. Large, solid figures generate enormous suction forces that can tear them from the supports or even damage the FEP film in your printer.
The solution is very simple: hollow out the model.
Almost all slicers have a feature to do this in just a couple of clicks. This creates a shell with a wall thickness of your choice (normally, between 2 and 3 mm is more than enough).
But watch out! ⚠️ A hollow model is a deadly trap for liquid resin. If you don't leave an opening, the resin will get trapped inside and, over time, could crack your figure from within. To avoid this, you must always add two or more drain holes. Place them in spots that won't be seen, such as on the base or beneath a fold in the clothing. This way, the liquid resin can drain out and the isopropyl alcohol can get in to properly clean the inside. 🧼
The printing and post-processing process step by step
Once you have the model ready and exported from the slicer, the moment of truth arrives: turning that digital file into an object you can touch and feel. 🤩 This process has two equally crucial parts: the printing itself and what I call "the post-processing ritual". Both phases need care and a good method to get first-rate results.
This is when all those settings you made on the computer come to life. You'll watch the 3D printer submerge the build plate into the resin vat and, with each flash of its UV screen, solidify the liquid layer by layer. The magic is underway! ✨
Key settings in printing
Every resin and every printer is its own world, but there are two values you absolutely need to master: the exposure time per layer and the lift speed.
Exposure time is, basically, how many seconds each layer is illuminated. Too short and the layer won't cure properly and the piece will come out weak; too long and you'll burn the fine details. On the other hand, lift speed controls how quickly the plate separates from the FEP film. If you go full speed, the suction can be strong enough to tear the piece off its supports.
Maker tip: 🤓 Whenever you try out a new resin, always print a calibration test first, like the famous "Cones of Calibration". It's a small time investment that will help you nail the perfect exposure time for your machine and your environment, saving you resin, frustration, and half-finished pieces.
Washing: the first stop in post-processing
Congratulations, your figure now exists! 🥳 But right now it's covered in a sticky layer of uncured resin. The first step is to give it a good bath. You have two main options:
- The classic method with Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA): Submerge the piece in a container of IPA and agitate it gently, or use a soft brush to remove all residue. It's super effective, but be careful: you need good ventilation and should always wear gloves.
- Water-washable resins: The most convenient and clean option, especially for home use. Simply rinse the piece under the tap. Ideal if you want to avoid the smells and fumes from alcohol.
The truth is that equipment like wash and cure stations has simplified our lives enormously. In fact, it's no surprise that the European 3D printing market was valued at $5.26 billion in 2023 and is expected to reach $11.54 billion by 2029. This growth is reflected in the amount of new hardware making these technologies more accessible. If you're into these figures, you can read more about the growth of the 3D market in Europe here.
Support removal and final curing
With the piece now clean, it's time to remove the supports. Take note of this golden tip: do it after washing but before curing. At this point, the resin is softer and more flexible, which allows the supports to come off cleanly, leaving minimal marks. You'll save yourself a lot of sanding time! ✂️
The final step is the final curing. Even though your piece is already solid, it hasn't yet reached its maximum hardness. It needs one last session under UV light. You could leave it in the sun (if you're lucky and it's a nice day ☀️), but for a uniform, professional finish, the best option is to use a dedicated curing station.
These machines bathe the figure with UV light from all angles as it rotates, ensuring that every last corner hardens completely. This way, your 3D resin figure will be ready to receive the primer coat. If you want to dive even deeper into this world, don't miss our complete guide on how to print in 3D with resin.
Painting techniques to bring your creations to life
A perfectly printed figure is like a blank canvas. 🎨 But the real magic begins with painting, the step that transforms your 3D resin figures from a piece of plastic into a display piece. And as with any work of art, it all starts with good preparation.
Before reaching for the brushes, make sure the surface is flawless. Take a fine-grit sandpaper and gently smooth out any marks that the supports may have left behind. We're looking for a uniform, smooth texture with no imperfections. Once it's ready, it's time for the primer.
The foundation for a professional finish
Primer is the coat that prepares the figure so that paint adheres properly, preventing it from peeling or cracking over time. It's a step you simply cannot skip. You have two main options:
- Spray: This is the quickest and most straightforward method. A couple of thin passes at around 20-30 cm away and you'll have ideal coverage. Perfect if you're just starting out.
- Airbrush: If maximum control is your thing and you want an ultra-thin coat that preserves every last detail, the airbrush is your tool.
A good coat of primer, whether white, grey or black, not only ensures that the paint adheres well, but also helps you better visualise the highlights and shadows of the figure before you start adding colour.
A quick tip: 💡 The colour of the primer drastically changes the result. Black gives you natural shadows and is great for dark colour schemes. White, on the other hand, makes vivid colours pop with greater intensity. Think about the final result before choosing!
Basic painting techniques to get started
With the figure already primed, the fun begins! You don't need to be a professional painter to achieve results that leave people speechless. With just a couple of simple techniques, your figures will take a massive leap in quality.
First, apply the base colours. This basically means painting each area of the figure with its main colour. No worrying about highlights or shadows just yet. Use a medium brush and apply thin coats to avoid covering up the details.
To add depth, washes are your best friends. These are very liquid paints that seep into every recess and create shadows almost automatically. Try applying a dark wash over a metal armour piece and be amazed at how all the engravings stand out.
Adding the finishing touch with highlights and varnish
Now it's time to make the details shine. For this, the dry brushing technique is foolproof. Dip an old brush into paint, wipe off almost all the excess onto a piece of paper, then gently drag the bristles across the textures of the figure. The remaining paint will only settle on the raised areas, creating highlights and bringing out textures like skin, hair or metal. ✨
Brands like Vallejo have paint ranges that are amazing for this. Their Game Color line is a classic for base colors, while the Xpress Color range is fantastic for creating shading and filters in a single pass. If you want to master the use of these paints, take a look at our guide on how to use Vallejo Game Color to paint your prints.
Finally, to protect your masterpiece from dust and scratches, apply a coat of protective varnish. You have matte finish for a realistic look, satin for a subtle sheen, or gloss for gem, liquid, or wet surface effects. 🛡️
The journey has only just begun!
Well, we've now completed the full tour. From that first moment of uncertainty when choosing the 3D printer to the final brushstroke on your newly created figure. Making 3D resin figures is more than a hobby; it's an incredible experience, a blend of art and technology that lets you bring anything you can imagine into the real world with a jaw-dropping level of detail. 🥳
If you've made it this far, you already have the tools and knowledge to make sure this doesn't feel overwhelming. This world is totally made for you.
As the saying goes, the journey of a thousand prints begins with a single layer. You now have the foundation to make every project a success. Now it's your turn to go for it! 🔥
If you've caught the bug and want to get started right away, or if you're looking to upgrade your setup, we invite you to visit the Mr Resin online store. You'll find everything you need, from resins to tools, all tested by us so you can shop with confidence. 🛒
And remember, you're not alone in this. Join our community in the Telegram group. It's the perfect place to ask those questions we all have, show off your creations (we love seeing them!) and grab discounts and deals we only share there. Oh, and if you want to be the first to know about everything, don't forget to subscribe to our Newsletter. 💌
Frequently asked questions about 3D resin figures
Even with the best guide in the world, there are always small questions lingering when you're just starting out. That's totally normal! We've gathered the most common questions you send us about how to create 3D resin figures so you can dive in with complete confidence. 🤔
What printer resolution do I actually need?
For the day-to-day staples of this hobby — wargame miniatures, collectible figures around 28-32 mm — a 4K or 8K 3D printer will give you a level of detail that will leave you speechless. The difference is very noticeable in fine textures, faces, and small accessories. ✅
A 14K resolution is for a whole other level: jewelry, dental models, or display pieces where every micron counts. If you're just starting out, an 8K 3D printer is the perfect sweet spot — a great balance between quality and price.
Does resin smell a lot? Is it dangerous?
Yes, let's not kid ourselves: resin has a strong chemical smell and its fumes can be irritating. It is absolutely crucial that you work in a well-ventilated area. If you can have a window open or an extraction system in place, all the better. 🌬️
In addition, wearing a mask with organic vapor filters and nitrile gloves is non-negotiable. They are mandatory when handling liquid resin and freshly printed parts. There are low-odor resins available, but even then, never skip ventilation.
Safety is not an extra, it's the foundation. Good ventilation and protective equipment are just as important as the 3D printer itself if you want to enjoy this hobby long-term and without any scares.
Why do my prints fail?
Failures usually come from three usual suspects. If a print goes wrong, take a deep breath and check these things before trying again:
- Insufficient supports: This is the number one culprit. The automatic mode in slicing programs sometimes leaves "islands" (points that start printing in mid-air) without support. Learning to add some manual supports in those critical areas will save you a great deal of frustration.
- Poor build plate leveling: If the build plate is not perfectly parallel to the screen, the first layers won't adhere properly and the print will fail from the very beginning. It's a step that feels tedious, but it's vital.
- Incorrect exposure times: Every resin has its own "sweet spot." If the exposure time is too low, the layers will remain soft and peel off; if it's too high, you'll lose detail and the piece will come out bloated. Always run a calibration test when you switch resins.
At Mr Resin we are dedicated to making your 3D printing journey as easy and rewarding as possible.
Visit our online store and discover a selection of resins, 3D printers, and paints from the best brands, chosen by people like you so that your only concern is creating.
Conclusion:
We have walked the entire journey together, from choosing your first 3D printer to adding that final brushstroke that brings your 3D resin figures to life. Now you know that this hobby, far from being complicated, is an incredibly rewarding pastime that is completely within your reach. With the right guide and good materials, your imagination is the only limit.
Now it's your turn to take the next step. Explore the online store of Mr Resin, where you will find absolutely everything you need to get started or to take your creations to the next level. 💥
Don't be left with any doubts. Join our community and share the passion. We're waiting for you in our Telegram group to show off your projects, get your questions answered, and grab exclusive discounts and deals you won't find anywhere else. And to stay up to date with the latest news and receive more coupons, don't forget to subscribe to our Newsletter! 💌
✨Happy Printing! 🚀