What Is Chitubox and Why Is It the Most Popular Resin Slicer?
Chitubox is a slicing software designed specifically for SLA, MSLA, and DLP resin printers. It converts your 3D model into layers that the printer builds one by one, generating the file that controls each UV exposure. Without a slicer, your printer has nothing to work with.
One important note on versions: In September 2025, CHITUBOX merged Basic and Pro into a single application with three access tiers. You no longer download two separate programs. And be careful where you download from: the only official source is chitubox.com. Any other link will give you an outdated version. There are forums full of old installers that will only cause problems.
How to Install Chitubox and Add Your Printer Profile
To install Chitubox, download the installer from chitubox.com for your operating system, run it, and accept the license. When you open it for the first time, it will prompt you to add a printer: search for your model by name, select it, and save. Chitubox will automatically load the official profile with your manufacturer's base settings.
Installation on Windows is straightforward. If Windows shows "Windows protected your PC", click "More info" → "Run anyway". On macOS there is no setup wizard: download the .dmg and drag the icon to the Applications folder. If your system flags the developer, authorize it under Settings → Privacy & Security.
Adding your printer is a step you cannot skip, because the printer profile defines the build volume, screen resolution, and output format. The wrong profile means a file your printer cannot use. Here is how to do it:
- Add a new printer by clicking the add button on the machine management bar at the bottom of the main window.
- Select your brand to expand the model list, then choose your exact model.
- Click Save and confirm that the active profile appears in the top right corner.
If your printer is very new or a lesser-known brand, you will need to create it manually. You need: screen resolution (XY pixels), build area size (mm), and output format (check the manual). Most current MSLA printers use .ctb. All of this information is in your machine's manual.
What Are the Key Parameters You Need to Configure?
The essential Chitubox settings are: layer height, number of bottom layers, transition layers, normal exposure time, bottom layer exposure time, and lift speed and height. These settings live in the "Print" section and are what determine whether your print comes out perfect or peels off the FEP.
Layer height is the first thing to dial in. For most applications, 0.1mm is accurate enough. If you need more detail, drop down to 0.05mm — though print times will increase significantly. For very fine applications like jewelry, super accurate results sometimes require a layer thickness of around 0.025mm.
Bottom layers are critical for adhesion: these layers are exposed for longer to get a solid bond to the build plate. Then there are transition layers — a setting many people overlook, then wonder why their parts are delaminating. If the difference between bottom layer exposure and regular layer exposure is too large, the regular layers won't bond properly to the bottom layers. The fix is simple: we often use 1-2 bottom layers followed by 6 transition layers.
Lift speed is the other parameter that can make or break your prints. When the build plate rises, it pulls both the FEP film and the model up at the same time — this is known as the suction effect. The recommendation is clear: keep the lifting speed slow until the model has fully separated from the FEP film. Retraction speed, on the other hand, can be left at the default 150 mm/min. As for advanced settings (anti-aliasing, blur, tolerance compensation), here's a practical tip: most of the time we disable all advanced options, as these are often still in beta and don't always work reliably.
How to Adjust Exposure Times by Resin Type
Exposure time depends on the resin, the printer, and even the ambient temperature. There's no universal value — every resin has its own optimal cure point. The standard approach is to start with the manufacturer's recommended settings and fine-tune from there using an exposure calibration test.
Almost everyone starting out copies exposure times from a YouTube tutorial and assumes they'll just work. Spoiler: they won't. Times vary depending on your printer, since not all screens are created equal — they differ in exposure output and light power. A monochrome 12K LCD doesn't expose the same way as an older 2K RGB screen.
Every brand formulates their resin differently, and that changes the exposure times. As a rough reference, Anycubic resin may cure perfectly at 2s exposure while Elegoo resin might need 2.5s. And there's a factor almost nobody considers: in summer you'll often find you need shorter optimal exposure times compared to winter, because of ambient temperature. If your workspace gets cold in January, the resin cures more slowly.
I learned this the hard way after a winter full of delamination failures. Prints that had been coming out perfectly suddenly started failing without me changing a single setting — the only culprit was that my workspace was as cold as a refrigerator. Since then, whenever temperatures drop, I bump the exposure up just a touch, and problem solved.
Before buying any bottle, it's worth checking the data sheet — good resins for 3D printers include recommended settings on the label or the manufacturer's website. From there, the proper way to dial in your exact value is to print an exposure test: a single piece with different exposure times per zone that shows you at a glance which setting delivers the best detail without overexposing. Correctly calibrating your exposure time is a critical factor in ensuring your prints come out problem-free and at the highest quality.
How to correctly configure automatic supports?
Chitubox offers three preset automatic support profiles: Light, Medium, and Heavy. Choose based on the size and fragility of your model, tilt it at an angle before generating supports, and always review floating islands manually. Auto-supports get you most of the way there — they handle the heavy lifting, but the finishing touches are up to you.
The three levels cover most scenarios: CHITUBOX provides 3 default support settings — Light, Medium, and Heavy — and also lets you create and export custom support settings for future use. For fragile miniatures, Medium usually does the job. For large, heavy pieces, go straight to Heavy — no need to overthink it. The parameters you'll adjust most are the support tip diameter and density, which is controlled by the spacing between tips: Touch Tip Distance is the distance between the tips of supports, controlling the overall support density.
A sensible workflow in the supports tab would be:
- Tilt the model at an angle (typically 30–45°) to reduce the contact area with the FEP film.
- Hollow out the model and add drain holes if it's a solid figure.
- Generate automatic supports using the appropriate level.
- Check the floating islands Chitubox highlights in red and add manual supports wherever they're missing.
Never slice immediately after hitting "auto-generate" without taking a look first — an unsupported island is a guaranteed failed print. The good news is that island detection allows Chitubox to better identify problematic areas before printing.
How to export the file for your Elegoo or Anycubic printer?
To export, click "Slice" and then save the file in the format your printer requires. Most modern MSLA machines from Elegoo and Anycubic use the .ctb format. Transfer the file to a USB drive or send it over the network using ChituManager, then start the print from your printer's touchscreen.
The output format is determined by the printer profile you added at the start, which is why selecting the exact model matters so much. Once slicing is complete, Chitubox will display a preview — use it to review the print layer by layer and check for any unsupported areas before exporting. If you work with different profiles per resin, this is where saving them pays off: you can switch between your Anycubic Standard or Elegoo profile with a single click, no need to reconfigure anything from scratch.
If you have an Anycubic printer, check our Anycubic resin settings guide for recommended exposure times first; if you're running an Elegoo, we have the same for Elegoo resin settings. Loading those values into your profile will save you a whole first batch of failed prints.
One important heads-up on specific models: not every version of Chitubox supports every printer. The Anycubic Photon Mono X2, for example, had direct compatibility issues with Chitubox at one point. The fix in those cases is either rolling back to an older version or switching slicers altogether. If you're on an Anycubic, you also have the option of exporting and using RERF — the built-in exposure test function available in the firmware of many of their machines.
When should you NOT use Chitubox — and what's the best alternative?
Chitubox is what I recommend to anyone just starting out, because it doesn't overwhelm you with menus. It's not the best choice if you need fine-tuned support placement, advanced hollowing, or your specific printer has been dropped from the supported list. In those cases, the natural alternative is Lychee Slicer.
The main difference between the two comes down to philosophy: Chitubox is easier for newcomers, whereas Lychee suits experienced users who prefer flexibility. If you're just starting out, Chitubox has a much gentler learning curve. But Lychee wins in certain areas: hollowing is more convenient and flexible in Lychee compared to Chitubox. And for quick manual support placement, Lychee has keyboard shortcuts that Chitubox simply doesn't offer.
Where Chitubox holds its own is stability and performance: it's better optimized for complex and large-scale tasks. When you're prepping big build plates with lots of parts, it loads faster. My take is straightforward: if you're just getting started, go with Chitubox and don't overthink it. Once you've been at it for a while and the auto-support tool starts driving you crazy, that's when you switch to Lychee and don't look back. And if you're on an Anycubic machine, Photon Workshop is a third option built specifically for that ecosystem.
Recommended settings by printer and resin — quick reference table
These values are a starting point, not gospel. As any serious calibration guide will tell you, settings vary depending on multiple factors, and you should always confirm them with an exposure test on your own machine.
| Setting | Detail |
|---|---|
| Layer height (general use) | 0.05–0.1 mm |
| Layer height (jewelry/dental) | 0.025–0.05 mm |
| Bottom layers | 1–2 |
| Transition layers | ~6, linear mode |
| Normal exposure (Anycubic resin, reference) | ~2 s (adjust based on testing) |
| Normal exposure (Elegoo resin, reference) | ~2.5 s (adjust based on testing) |
| Retract speed | 150 mm/min (default) |
| Output format (modern MSLA) | .ctb |
| Recommended support profile | Medium for miniatures, Heavy for large parts |
A quick note on those exposure reference values: they're starting points only, and you'll likely need to dial them in for your specific setup. Every resin has its sweet spot, and your screen ages over time — what gives you a perfect cure today may need a few extra seconds a year from now.
Tips and gotchas that will save you from failed prints
These are the five mistakes that have cost me the most failed prints:
- Wrong printer profile. Choosing a similar but not exact profile can result in files that won't open or prints that come out misaligned. Always confirm XY resolution and build volume before slicing.
- Skipping transition layers. This is the number one cause of delamination between bottom and normal layers. Always leave a few in.
- Lift speed too fast. FEP suction can warp your print or rip it off the build plate. Raise slowly until the layer releases cleanly.
- Slicing without checking for islands. Auto-support is good, not perfect — any red island left unsupported is a guaranteed print failure.
- Downloading from unofficial sources. Always use chitubox.com. Forum links are almost always outdated versions.
Frequently asked questions
Is Chitubox free?
Yes, the basic version is free for both personal and commercial use. It includes auto supports, island detection, hollowing, drain holes, anti-aliasing, and LAN transfer. Only the more advanced features require a paid plan. Unless you're running a serious professional operation, you're unlikely to miss anything in the free version.
Can I use the same file on two different printers?
It depends. The .ctb format is native to Chitubox, but exposure settings and build volume vary between machines. The right approach is to re-slice the model using each printer's specific profile — don't reuse a .ctb file blindly, since optimal exposure times for one screen won't transfer to another.
What if my printer isn't in the printer list?
Create a custom profile manually. You'll need your screen resolution in pixels, build area dimensions in mm, and the output file format — all of which should be in your printer's manual. Most modern MSLA printers use .ctb.
Why do my prints keep falling off the build plate?
The most common causes are insufficient bottom layer exposure, support contact points that are too small, or a lift speed that's pulling the print off before it releases. Check those three settings in that order before changing anything else.
How often should I recalibrate my exposure times?
Whenever you switch resins or brands, or if you notice a drop in detail quality. It's also worth rechecking with significant seasonal temperature changes and as your LCD screen accumulates hours — screens lose output power over time, which means longer exposure times will eventually be needed.
Happy printing — may every layer stick! 😎
ELEGOO Mars 5 Ultra
If your Chitubox settings are dialed in, the next step is a printer that can keep up. The ELEGOO Mars 5 Ultra combines blazing-fast print speeds with the precision to capture even the finest details — so every hour you spend tuning your parameters will actually show in every print you pull off the build plate.