Vallejo True Metallic Metal (TMM): The Most Complete Review to Achieve Real Metallic Effects

Makers, let's get into it! Today I'm bringing you one of those ranges that marks a before and after on the painting table: the Vallejo True Metallic Metal (TMM). If you're fed up with metallics that look like carnival glitter or cover less than a bad excuse, stick around. I'm going to tell you why, ever since I tried them, they've become a staple in my workshop for bringing the pieces that come out of our printers to life.

It's no secret that achieving a metallic finish that actually looks like real metal, and not plastic painted with glitter, is the holy grail of modelling. And this is especially true with our 3D resin figures, where every detail counts.

What blew me away from the start was the pigment. Vallejo has used real metallic particles, not micas, and that, friends, makes an enormous difference. They're super fine, suspended in a special solvent-based medium, and the result is a scale-accurate shine I hadn't seen before. You know that feeling of painting a suit of armour and having it look like real metal rather than a toy? That's exactly it.

In my experience, the Vallejo True Metallic Metal (TMM) range has changed the rules of the game for me. Its real metallic pigment is the closest I've come to painting with liquid metal.

In this guide I'm going to walk you through the entire process, from how to prepare your printed pieces to the final varnish coat. Forget the frustrations, I've got you covered. I'm going to show you how to get the most out of these paints to achieve display-quality results.

And if your curiosity is already getting the better of you, you can take a look at the full Vallejo True Metallic Metal (TMM) range in the store to start picking your favourite shades. Let's go!

TMM vs. NMM: The eternal battle of the metallics

Here comes the great dilemma, the million-dollar question that every mini painter has asked themselves at some point: do I go for True Metallic Metal (TMM) or do I dive headfirst into the Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) technique? It's one of the big debates in the hobby, so let's break it down as if we were having a chat over a coffee.

The quick and impressive route: True Metallic Metal (TMM)

The TMM technique involves using paints with real metallic particles in their composition. TMM paints, like those from the Vallejo True Metallic Metal range we're looking at, have a built-in advantage. They contain actual metallic particles in the paint. This means the shine you achieve is physical; light bounces off the surface and creates that metallic effect we're all after.

Personally, it's my go-to choice. It's faster, far more intuitive and, let's be honest, it gives you incredible realism with a fraction of the effort. If you're painting an entire army or simply don't want to spend three evenings on a single shoulder pad, TMM is your best ally.

The artist's path: Non-Metallic Metal (NMM)

The NMM (Non-Metallic Metal) technique consists of simulating the effect of metal using only matte paints. On the other hand, we have NMM. This is no longer just painting — it's almost an exercise in illusionism. With this technique, you simulate the shine and reflections of metal using exclusively matte finish paints. It's about hand-painting every light, every shadow, every reflection of the sky or the ground.

The result can be absolutely spectacular, as if you had taken a 2D illustration and brought it to life. But of course, this comes at a price: it requires highly refined technique, a great deal of patience, and a time investment that, honestly, not all of us have or want to put into every figure.

Quick comparison: TMM or NMM?

To make it clearer, I've put together a table. Use this table to decide which technique suits you best based on your project and experience level.

The main difference between TMM and NMM is that TMM uses real metallic pigments for a physical shine, while NMM simulates that shine with matte paints, demanding more technique and time. As you can see, there is no objectively better option; it all depends on what you're looking for.

If you're feeling the itch and want to take your first steps with NMM, I recommend taking a look at my guide to painting a sword with this technique. There I walk you through the process at a more relaxed pace.

That said, I'll be honest with you — on my workbench, TMM wins the day for 90% of my projects, thanks to its incredible balance between efficiency and the outstanding realism it delivers.

My method for using Vallejo TMM like a professional

Let's get into it! Now that you know what the True Metallic Metal range is all about, let's get to the fun part: how to get the most out of it on your figures. Forget the theory — here we're focusing on what actually works at the workbench. And trust me, it all starts with solid preparation.

The foundation is everything: preparation and the first layer

Don't skip this step, seriously. A good black or dark grey primer is essential. This makes the metallic pigments in Vallejo TMM shine as if they have a life of their own. It also prepares the surface so the paint adheres the way it should. It's a step I never, ever skip.

Once the figure is ready, we move on to the base coat. Here's the secret trick: thinning. My starting point, both for brush and airbrush, is adding 10% Airbrush Thinner. This gives you perfect coverage without killing that gorgeous metallic shine.

Bringing the metal to life: shadows, highlights and the finishing touch

Now it's time to add depth and realism. For shadows, I use colours like TMM Shade to define recesses and simulate natural wear, or simply to add volume to the piece.

The magic moment, the one that makes it really POP!, comes with the highlights. A good dry brush or carefully edging the raised areas with lighter colours, like Silver, is what will make that metal look genuinely real.

My Pro tip: If you're going to paint large surfaces, like a vehicle or a full suit of armour, the airbrush is your best friend. It will give you an incredibly smooth, even coat and a professional finish that's almost impossible to achieve with a brush. You can take a look at the airbrushes I recommend in the store.

Last but not least: protecting your masterpiece. This step is CRUCIAL. I usually use a satin varnish so I don't ruin the metallic effect, keeping just the right amount of shine without it looking like a mirror. If you want to dive deeper, take a look at this airbrushing guide where it's explained in more detail.

Brush vs. Airbrush: My hands-on experience with TMM

This is where things get good. I'm going to share my personal experiences with the TMM range, both with a brush in hand and with my trusty airbrush. Because, believe me, the experience changes a lot, and I want you to know what you're getting into.

With a brush: Coverage, shine and the layers you'll need

For edging raised areas, painting rivets, or any small piece that requires precision, the brush is the undisputed king. What I love about these paints is their consistency. They self-level beautifully and, if you pay a little attention, brushstrokes disappear almost like magic. Say goodbye to those horrible streaks that ruin an otherwise great finish!

In my experience, coverage is good, but since they're slightly more fluid than other metallics, I sometimes apply a second thin coat for a 100% opaque finish, especially with lighter colours like silver. The shine, though, is spectacular from the very first pass.

My secret trick is simple: thin coats and patience. I load the brush with very little paint, offload the excess onto a palette (or a piece of paper — we're not here to show off) and apply it gently. It's a thousand times better to lay down two thin coats than one thick one that swallows all the detail you worked so hard to print.

With the airbrush: The factory finish

Now, if what you're after is painting large surfaces or achieving smooth, even gradients, the airbrush has no rival. The TMM Airbrush sub-range is an absolute marvel here. It comes practically ready to use, with the perfect consistency. Just give the bottle a good shake, pour it into the cup and enjoy the show.

But what about regular TMM colors? Well, I use those in the airbrush too, of course! I simply thin them with their specific thinner or, in a pinch, with isopropyl alcohol until they reach a milk-like consistency. This gives you a smooth, super professional finish, ideal for armor, ships, or vehicles.

If airbrushing sounds interesting to you and you want to master it, don't miss the guide I put together on how to choose the best airbrush for miniatures.

Vallejo TMM vs. Citadel: Which is better for your miniatures?

The million-dollar question, the battle of the century in the world of miniatures: Vallejo versus Citadel. As a painter who has dirtied brushes with both brands for more years than I'd like to admit, I'm going to give you my honest, unfiltered opinion.

Mind you, we're not going to crown an absolute "winner" here, because that doesn't exist. It's about seeing which one is going to work better for you and the type of finish you're looking for on your figures. Let's get into it!

Realism and final finish

When it comes to pure, hard realism, for me, Vallejo TMM takes the gold medal. And by a long shot.

The key lies in the pigment. The metallic particle that Vallejo uses is extremely fine, almost like powder. The result? A satin finish that's believable, that truly looks like metal. When you apply it to a piece, the effect is spectacular.

Citadel's metallics, which have improved enormously — let's not kid ourselves — still sometimes have that hint of "glitter" to them. It's not that it's bad, but if your goal is maximum realism, TMM is going to deliver it without you having to fight for it.

Ease of use and coverage

This is where things get interesting and the battle evens out. Vallejo TMMs are thinner straight out of the bottle, which is wonderful for airbrushing. In fact, the TMM Airbrush range is a real treat — straight from the bottle into the cup with no fuss. With a brush, though, you sometimes need to apply a second coat to get perfect coverage.

On the other hand, Citadel Base paints are famous for their incredible coverage. They're thicker and, in general, a single pass covers beautifully. They're battle paints — straightforward and effective.

Personally, I think Vallejo's color system (Base, Light, Shade) is a stroke of genius, especially for beginners, because it guides you through the highlighting process. Citadel's range, on the other hand, is so enormous that it can sometimes feel like chaos if you're just starting to build your palette.

And of course, we can't leave without talking about the packaging. Vallejo's dropper bottles are an absolute godsend. You dose the exact amount you need and the paint doesn't dry out on you in two days. A clear win for Vallejo!

TMM colors: The ones that must be in your workshop

Right, let's get to the important stuff. Vallejo's TMM range is fantastic, but it's also huge. If you're just starting out, it's easy to feel a little lost among so many bottles. So you don't get confused and can go straight to the point, I've put together my personal "survival kit." You can't go wrong with this!

If you had to start with just three colors, my heartfelt recommendation is to grab these:

• TMM Base Gunmetal Grey: The perfect starting point for any dark steel. It's a super versatile color you'll end up using on everything.
• TMM Shade Black: Essential for adding depth and shadows to any metal. A must-have!
• TMM Light Silver: The magic touch for final highlights and that edge lining that brings a miniature to life.

I say this wholeheartedly: with this trio you can paint 90% of the weapons and armor you'll ever come across. A maker's word of honor!

What about golds and other metals?

If golds are your thing, I recommend starting with the TMM Base in Gold and building up the highlights with TMM Light Gold for a spectacular finish. And if you're after more of an aged gold or a good bronze look, the TMM Base Copper is an absolute gem.

It's worth remembering that Vallejo True Metallic Metal (TMM) paints have an alcohol base with real metallic pigments. If you want to dig deeper into the composition of these paints, you'll find more info here.

A word of friendly advice: if they catch your eye, don't think twice. Investing in good paints is investing in better results, and these are worth every penny.

To make things even easier, Vallejo has some great-value sets. The 4-color TMM set is ideal for getting started. And if you really want to go all out and become the master of metallics, the complete TMM case or the True Metallic Metal BSL book are a dream come true for any painter.

FAQ: Answering Your Questions About Vallejo True Metallic Metal

Every time I bring up TMM paints in a conversation, the same questions come up. That's perfectly normal — they're a bit of a special paint range. So you don't get stuck halfway through a project, I've put together the most common questions with straight, no-nonsense answers. Let's clear them all up once and for all!

Does the thinner need to be special for TMM paints?

Yes, absolutely and without question. These paints are alcohol-based, which means water is their kryptonite. Don't even think about mixing them.

The right choice is Vallejo Airbrush Thinner (71.161), which is made for them. In a pinch, isopropyl alcohol can also save the day. This is crucial, especially if you're airbrushing, so the paint flows properly and doesn't clog your nozzle.

Can they be mixed with regular acrylics?

Bad idea, seriously. If you try to mix an alcohol-based paint like TMM with a water-based acrylic, you'll create a chemical disaster on your palette that leaves you with a useless mess.

Use them separately. If you want to apply one over the other, make sure there's a fully dried varnish layer in between. That's the only way they'll coexist peacefully.

Is it really necessary to varnish over them?

It's not mandatory, but I'd highly recommend it without hesitation. A good satin varnish protects that great metallic finish without killing the shine.

Also, if you're planning to go further with weathering effects (oils, enamels, etc.), that varnish layer is your safety net. It will prevent the solvents from those effects from eating into the TMM paint underneath.

Why do I get clumps in the paint?

It's almost certainly down to one reason: you haven't shaken it enough. The metallic pigment in these paints is super dense and loves to settle at the bottom of the pot.

The solution is simple: shake the pot like your life depends on it. Give it a good go for at least one minute, and if you have a mixing ball inside, even better. You'll see how the texture changes completely.

Who is the Vallejo TMM range ideal for?

In my opinion, the Vallejo True Metallic Metal range is ideal for any miniature painter, from beginner to expert, who is looking for a realistic metallic finish without the complexity of the NMM technique. They're perfect for armies, vehicles, armour and any piece where you want the metal to look like real metal quickly and effectively. If you value realism and efficiency, these paints are for you.

Conclusion

In summary, the Vallejo True Metallic Metal (TMM) range is, for me, an absolute 10/10 if you're looking for brutal metallic realism without overcomplicating things. Its fine pigment, satin finish and ease of use, especially with an airbrush, make it an essential tool in my workshop.

We've looked at the difference with NMM, how to use them with a brush and airbrush, their key colours and compared them with Citadel. I hope this review has cleared up all your doubts and encourages you to give them a try. You won't regret it! And if you want to grab yours, you know where to find them! 😉