Varnish for Miniatures: Matte vs Glossy, Which Should I Choose for My Figures?

Varnish for miniatures is the final coat that protects your work and defines its finish, with matte and gloss being the most common; matte creates a realistic effect without reflections, ideal for fabrics or skin, while gloss intensifies colors and is perfect for metals or gems.

After countless hours painting, I can assure you that the eternal question of whether to use matte or gloss varnish has no single answer. It's not a battle, but a strategic alliance. In my experience, the real trick is knowing when and where to use each one to take your minis to the next level. If you want to start experimenting, I recommend taking a look at my varnish catalogue, where you'll find everything you need.

Which finish is better for my miniatures, matte or gloss?

Matte and gloss varnish are the two most widely used finishes in the world of scale modelling, each with a very defined aesthetic and protective purpose. The choice between one, the other, or a combination of both, will radically change how your miniature is perceived, so it's vital to understand what each one does before applying that final coat.

In my experience, the "matte vs. gloss" debate ends when you stop seeing them as rivals and treat them for what they are: complementary tools. Matte softens, unifies and adds realism; gloss dramatises, saturates and highlights. The secret is using each one to guide the eye and tell a story with your paintwork. 😉

What is the difference between matte and gloss varnish?

A varnish is not just a transparent coat; its chemistry defines how it interacts with light and the surface of your miniature.

• Matte Varnish: Its secret lies in matting agents, which are microscopic solid particles suspended in the varnish. As it dries, these particles create a micro-level irregular surface that scatters light in all directions. The result? Zero reflections and an ultra-realistic look.
• Gloss Varnish: It's the opposite. It contains no matting agents and its formula is designed to create a completely smooth and uniform film as it dries. This surface acts like a mirror, reflecting light directly, which intensifies colors and creates those characteristic bright spots.

In the world of wargaming and display painting, I can assure you that the matte finish is king. A good matte varnish eliminates the "plastic effect" of resin or certain paints, which is something key to achieving a good level of realism.

To make it even clearer, I've put together a comparison table that gets straight to the point.

Quick comparison: Matte Varnish vs. Gloss Varnish

This table will help you quickly decide which varnish best suits what you're looking for, comparing their effects, typical uses and the protection they offer.

As you can see, the choice depends entirely on the material you want to represent. My advice is to master both so you have incredible versatility and can take your pieces to the next level.

What protection do miniature varnishes offer?

A varnish is much more than an aesthetic touch; it is the armor that protects your miniature from the dangers of the real world: scuffs, drops, moisture and constant handling during games. Here, the composition of each varnish, whether acrylic or polyurethane, determines the durability of your work.

The big difference in terms of protection lies in the film they leave when dry. Gloss varnish creates a completely smooth, non-porous layer — a true shield. In my experience, it offers superior resistance to abrasion and moisture.

Think of it this way: gloss varnish is like putting tempered glass on your miniature. It is harder to the touch and seals the surface more effectively.

For that very reason, I almost always recommend applying a first coat of gloss varnish to wargaming miniatures that are going to see a lot of action. They hold up brilliantly to the wear and tear of being packed and unpacked from cases. A great example is the polyurethane gloss varnish in a pot, which has spectacular hardness.

What about the protection offered by matte varnish?

This is where things get interesting. Matte varnish, due to the additives it contains to eliminate shine, creates a surface that is microscopically rough. Although it may seem less robust, this texture has an incredible tactical advantage: it conceals micro-wear much more effectively. Fingerprints and surface scratches are barely noticeable.

Acrylic vs. Polyurethane: Which is harder?

Take note — not all varnishes are equal. The type of resin they use defines their final hardness.

• Acrylic varnishes: These are the most common. They are flexible, easy to apply and clean, and provide more than decent protection. They are the perfect option for most projects. For example, the Vallejo matte spray varnish is a workhorse.
• Polyurethane varnishes: This is the heavy artillery. They form a final coat that is extremely hard and resistant to scratches and chemicals. They are my choice for pieces that need maximum durability, such as bases or scenery. The Vallejo ultra matte varnish in a jar is a good example.

My foolproof trick for bulletproof protection

If you're looking for the best of both worlds (maximum resistance and the finish you want), I'm going to share the technique I call "the protection sandwich":

1. Layer 1 (Hard core): Apply one or two thin coats of gloss varnish, ideally polyurethane, all over the miniature. Let it cure for at least 24 hours. This creates a super-resistant base armor.
2. Layer 2 (Final finish): Once the gloss coat is fully cured, apply a thin coat of matte or satin varnish on top.

With this method, you achieve the incredible resistance of gloss varnish, but with the realistic, reflection-free finish of matte. Battle-proof! 🛡️

How do I apply varnish for a perfect finish?

Just as important as choosing the right varnish is knowing how to apply it. Even the best product is useless if the technique fails and you ruin hours of painting. In my workshop I mainly use three tools: spray, airbrush, and brush. Each one has its moment and its reason.

Here I'll share my method for each one, including those tricks that you only learn through trial and error. Let's get to it!

1. Spray Application

Spray is your best friend for varnishing armies or large pieces. It's fast and provides even coverage.

• Shake the can for 2 minutes: No joke. The matting agents settle, and if they are not mixed well, the varnish will go on unevenly or come out glossy.
• Control the weather: Varnish on a dry day, at a temperature between 15 and 25 °C. Humidity is the culprit behind the dreaded frosting (whitish haze).
• Distance and movement: Hold the mini about 20-30 cm away. Apply in short, quick passes, starting and finishing away from the figure to avoid buildup. A good gloss spray varnish or a satin spray varnish are great for this.

2. Airbrush Application

For me, the airbrush is the tool of precision. It allows you to apply ultra-thin coats with total control.

• Correct dilution: Most varnishes need to be diluted. My starting point is a mix of 2 parts varnish to 1 part thinner (Airbrush Thinner), aiming for a skimmed milk consistency.
• Low pressure: I work between 15 and 20 PSI (1-1.5 bar). This prevents the varnish from drying in the air and ensures an ultra-thin coat.
• Gentle application: I make controlled passes without "flooding" the surface. I keep moving constantly to cover every nook and cranny evenly.

3. Brush Application

The brush is the precision weapon for specific details, like applying a touch of gloss to a mini already varnished in matte.

• A dedicated brush: Use a soft synthetic brush that isn't your favourite for painting details, but one that still holds its tip.
• Don't shake, stir: With pot varnishes, like the matte pot varnish, shaking creates bubbles. Stir gently with a toothpick.
• Thin, stretched coat: Load a small amount of product and spread it well. It's better to apply two thin coats than one thick one.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) about Varnishes for Miniatures

Can I apply a gloss varnish over a matte one (or vice versa)?

Absolutely! In fact, it's one of my favourite techniques for achieving stunning contrast effects. The only thing you absolutely must respect is that the first coat of varnish is fully cured (wait 24 hours), not just dry to the touch.

Why has my matte varnish turned out glossy?

It's almost always down to two reasons: you haven't shaken the pot enough (at least 2 minutes, really go for it!) or you've applied too thick a coat. Always remember this mantra: it's far better to apply several thin coats than a single thick one.

Is polyurethane varnish better than acrylic?

It's not that one is "better" — they simply serve different purposes. Polyurethane is armour (harder and more durable), ideal for gaming minis. Acrylic is more flexible and easier to use, perfect for display figures or those that see less handling.

How long do I need to wait for the varnish to dry?

An acrylic varnish may be dry to the touch in 15-30 minutes, but full curing (when it reaches its maximum hardness) can take 24 hours or more. My golden tip: be patient and don't touch the miniature before it's ready.

Conclusion: The 90/10 Strategy That Never Fails

After all that, what's the takeaway? If you've been paying attention, you already know the question isn't "matte or gloss", but when and where to use each one. In my experience, the best strategy is what I call the 90/10 rule.

1. Apply matte varnish to 90% of the miniature. This gives you a realistic and cohesive finish, perfect for cloth, skin, wood, stone... It's your workhorse, like a good matte pot varnish.
2. Apply gloss varnish to the key 10% of details. With a fine brush, add a touch of gloss pot varnish to gems, visors, fresh blood or eyes. This small contrast is what takes a figure from looking "well painted" to looking "alive".

Varnish isn't the final step — it's the final brushstroke. It's the signature that protects your work and guides the viewer's eye. So my advice is to go for it, experiment, and don't be afraid to mix finishes.

Now it's your turn to give your minis the finish they deserve!