🤔 What's cheaper, filament or resin? The definitive cost guide

At first glance, the scales seem to tip in one direction: filament is cheaper than resin if you only look at the price per kilo. But wait! If you stop there, you're missing half the picture. The real cost of each printed part is a puzzle with many more pieces: the type of model, the consumables you use, and the time you invest in getting it perfect.

Quick answer: Which is cheaper?

To be straightforward: filament has a lower initial cost per kilo. A basic PLA spool is more affordable than a bottle of standard resin. But if you've made it this far, it's because you sense that in 3D printing, the price per kilo is just the tip of the iceberg. 🧊 The real cost lies in the everyday details.

In this guide we're going to break down all those hidden costs so you can make an informed choice. We'll analyse the material price, consumable expenses, post-processing time, and what works best depending on your goal. We'll help you decide whether it makes more sense to buy 3D resin in Spain for your high-definition projects, or whether the versatile filaments for 3D printing are the right fit for you.

Price comparison per kg/litre

Let's get to the point. 💰 When you look at the purchase price, the difference is obvious — and it's the first factor that makes you wonder what's cheaper, filament or resin.

Filament price (per kilo)

The most common and popular filament, PLA (polylactic acid), is the undisputed king of affordability. A 1 kg spool of good-quality standard PLA typically falls within a very attractive price range.

• Standard PLA price range (1 kg): Between €12 and €30.

If you're looking for materials with improved mechanical properties, such as PETG (more resistant) or ABS (durability and heat resistance), the price goes up slightly, but remains very competitive.

• PETG/ABS price range (1 kg): Generally between €15 and €40.

This low upfront cost makes filament a very tempting option, especially for beginners.

Resin price (per litre)

Now, let's move on to resin. Here the starting prices are notably higher. Resin is usually sold in 1-litre or 1-kilogram bottles.

• Standard resin price range (1 kg): Typically starting at €15–€35 and going up to €60 or more.

And if you need resins with specific properties, the cost rises sharply.

• Specialised resins (ABS-like, High Definition): The price can easily exceed €20 – €100 per kilo.

The difference is clear: in the Spanish market, filament is cheaper per kilo upfront. But... is this the actual final cost? 🤔 Keep reading, because now things get interesting.

Real cost per part: The hidden expenses

Now that we know filament is cheaper on the shelf, it's time to head down to the workshop and face the harsh reality. The price per kilo is just the beginning; the real cost of a printed part is defined by the hidden expenses.

This is where the question "what is cheaper, filament or resin?" gets really interesting.

1. Material waste in supports 🗑️

• Filament (FDM): Supports are dense and robust, like scaffolding. This uses up a considerable amount of material. Removing them is tedious and leaves marks that need sanding.
• Resin (SLA/DLP): Supports are extremely thin, like needles. Their use is optimised, reducing waste to a minimum. They come off with a simple pull and leave almost imperceptible marks.

For a complex miniature, with filament you can waste 15-25% of the material on supports. With resin, that figure drops to 5-10%.

2. Consumables and washing 🧼

• Filament: Extra expenses are minimal: the occasional replacement nozzle (very cheap) or hairspray for the print bed.
• Resin: Here the list adds up. You'll need isopropyl alcohol (IPA) for washing the parts (a 5L container costs €20-25), nitrile gloves, paper towels and replacement FEP/ACF film for the tank (€15-30 each).

3. The ghost of failed prints 👻

A failed print is money and time thrown away.

• Filament: The dreaded warping (lifted corners), extruder clogs or a bed adhesion failure halfway through a 12-hour print are the most common culprits.
• Resin: Failures are usually caused by poor levelling, insufficient supports or incorrect exposure times. A failure can leave cured resin stuck to the FEP, forcing you to clean the entire tank.

4. Time is money: Post-processing ⏳

This is the key factor that many people overlook.

• Filament: For a smooth finish, get ready to sand, apply filler and prime. This means hours of manual work.
• Resin: The part comes out almost perfect. You just need to wash it, remove supports and cure it under UV light. The time you save on finishing is enormous and offsets the higher cost of the material.

When filament works out better (large/functional parts)

Filament is the undisputed king when your priority is functionality, strength and size. 💪

• Large parts and functional prototypes: If you need to print bulky objects (helmets, housings, scale models) or mechanical parts that will take a beating, the low price per kilo of filament makes the cost per part unbeatable.
• Mechanical strength: Materials like PETG, ABS or ASA offer durability and impact resistance far superior to most standard resins.
• Less hassle: The process is cleaner and more straightforward, ideal if you don't want to deal with chemicals and post-processing.

In short: for large, robust projects where extreme detail isn't the priority, filament will work out much cheaper and more practical.

When resin is the better choice (miniatures/detail/jewelry)

At first glance, the price per litre can be off-putting. But there are situations where resin doesn't just compete — it wins the cost battle. 🤑 The secret isn't in the label, but in evaluating the final result and, above all, your time.

The scales tip in favour of resin when your priority is extreme detail and a flawless finish straight out of the printer.

• Miniatures, figures and jewelry: Printing a wargames army with filament means hours and hours of sanding. With resin, parts come out ready to paint. The time you save on finishing work more than compensates for the higher cost of the material.
• Visual prototypes: If you need to present a product to a client, a resin part looks like a finished product, not a prototype.
• Small batch production: You can fill the build plate with dozens of small parts and print them all at once, taking the same amount of time as printing just one. Maximum efficiency!

For every need, there's a solution:

• For maximum detail: high-definition resin is the top choice.
• To reduce operating costs: water-washable resin eliminates the need for alcohol.
• For functional, durable prototypes: ABS-like resin offers excellent durability.

Final recommendation by profile

At this point, the question is no longer "what is cheaper?", but rather: "what is more cost-effective for you?".

For the beginner on a tight budget 💸

If you're just starting out and every euro counts, filament (FDM) is your best friend. The barrier to entry, both for the printer and the material, is much lower. It's the ideal entry point for learning without your bank account taking a serious hit.

For the artist and miniature painter 🎨

There's no debate here. If your passion is creating highly detailed figures, wargames armies or jewelry, resin (SLA/DLP) is your technology. The initial outlay is higher, but you'll see the return in quality and, above all, in time.

For the engineer and functional parts maker 🛠️

When the goal is to manufacture prototypes that hold up, tools or mechanical parts, filament is king once again. It offers superior mechanical properties and an unbeatable cost for large parts.

Summary table: What's right for me?

FAQ: Answering the most common questions

Let's cut to the chase and answer the questions you're probably asking yourself.

1. What's easier to start with, filament or resin?

Filament (FDM) is usually the most straightforward and simple option to start with. The material is easy to handle and requires no chemicals. Resin demands a bit more discipline around the washing and curing process, which requires greater care.

2. Is a resin printer much more expensive than a filament printer?

Surprise! Entry-level prices for a basic machine are practically identical. In Spain, you can find very capable models of both technologies for around 150–200€. The real difference is that with resin, buying a UV washing and curing station (100–150€ more) is almost essential to make the process comfortable and safe.

3. Can I use any resin in any resin printer?

In the vast majority of cases, yes. Almost all hobbyist printers use 405nm UV light, making them compatible with most resins on the market. That said, always check the manufacturer's recommendations and use the correct print settings for each resin.

Conclusion

So, which is cheaper, filament or resin?

• Filament wins if you're only looking at price per kilo and need to print large, functional, and durable parts where detail is not critical.
• Resin is the most cost-effective option when you're after exquisite detail and a perfect finish, such as with miniatures or jewelry. The savings in post-processing hours make up for the higher material cost.

The final decision depends 100% on your project. Now that you have all the information, we encourage you to visit our store. At Mr. Resin you'll find both the best filaments for 3D printing and an incredible selection of resins for all your needs.

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✨Happy Printing! 🚀