Flexible Resin for 3D Printer: Uses and Best Options That Will Blow Your Mind! 🚀

Hey, maker! I'm Mr Resin and today we're diving headfirst into one of the most spectacular materials out there for 3D printing. Can you imagine being able to print parts that bend, stretch and withstand impacts like it's nothing? Well, stop imagining, because that's exactly what flexible resin offers you — a material that opens the door to creating objects with a feel and behaviour very similar to rubber or silicone. Let's get into it, I've got you covered!

What is flexible resin and why do you need it in your arsenal?

If you've already got some experience in this world, you'll know that most standard resins for 3D printers are great for detail, but they produce parts that are rigid and quite brittle. Sometimes they snap just from looking at them the wrong way. And that's exactly where flexible resin comes in to change everything.

Unlike their rigid counterparts, this resin is formulated with special additives — elastomers — which are what give it that incredible ability to deform and return to its original shape. Think of it as a kind of liquid rubber that solidifies under UV light, while retaining that elasticity that makes it so special.

I'm telling you from experience: once you try flexibility, there's no going back. It unlocks a universe of applications that rigid materials can't even dream of.

Understanding Shore hardness: The key to not getting it wrong

Watch out — not all flexible resins are the same. To put it simply, the factor that defines how "soft" or "rubbery" a resin is comes down to its Shore A hardness. It sounds very technical, but it's simply a scale that measures a material's resistance to being penetrated. Keep that idea in mind — it's simpler than it sounds.

Let's visualise it with everyday examples:

• Low Shore A (20A–40A): Think of the texture of a gummy sweet or one of those super soft silicone wristbands. This is the maximum level of flexibility.
• Mid Shore A (50A–70A): Here we're talking about something with more body, like the sole of a trainer or a TPU phone case. It's flexible, but offers more resistance.
• High Shore A (80A–95A): This is closer to the hard rubber of a scooter wheel. It bends if you apply force, but feels quite firm to the touch.

Mr Resin's top tip! Most flexible resins in our maker world fall in the 80A to 90A range. In my experience, they give you a near-perfect balance between flexibility and printability, ideal for most projects.

Understanding this concept is key. Printing a sealing gasket — which needs to be very soft to do its job — is not the same as printing a barbarian miniature where you don't want the axe snapping off on the first drop. Knowing this gives you the power to choose wisely. 😉

The practical applications that will blow your mind

Okay, we've gotten through the theoretical part. Now comes the really fun stuff: what on earth is this peculiar material actually used for? This is where flexible resin for 3D printers flexes its muscles and shows what it's capable of. I'm going to share a few ideas from projects I've done myself and some awesome crazy things I've seen out there.

Get ready, because there are curves ahead (and never more literally!). 🤸

Functional prototypes that can take anything

One of the most powerful applications of elastic resin is prototyping. Before, you had to cross your fingers and imagine how a flexible part was going to behave. Now you can print it, bend it, squeeze it, and put it to the test in just a few hours.

• Custom gaskets and seals: Missing an O-ring with an impossible-to-find diameter? Just print one! With a low Shore A hardness resin, around 60A or 70A, I get perfect watertight seals for my inventions.
• Shock absorbers and vibration dampeners: From simple feet to stop your Raspberry Pi case from vibrating, to shock absorbers for a racing drone. The impact absorption capability is incredible.
• Handles and protective cases: Tired of your soldering iron slipping? Print yourself an ergonomic handle with a rubbery grip. Want to protect your Arduino from an accidental knock? A flexible case will save it from more than one drop.

Miniatures and wargames that can take a beating

If you're one of us and you spend hours painting minis, you know all too well that deep pain you feel when a lance or sword snaps from a silly drop. Well, with flexible resin, the drama is over! Adding a little of this material to your most fragile pieces turns them into something practically indestructible.

Imagine being able to print a flag's pole, a horse's reins, or a dragon's wings knowing they'll survive any battle on the gaming table. For this, a hardness of Shore 80A-90A is perfect, because it maintains an incredible level of detail.

Everyday objects

Rubber resin for 3D printers isn't just for engineers. The possibilities for making your life easier (and cooler) are endless. Here are a few ideas to get your mind going:

• Custom phone cases.
• Straps for watches or wearables.
• Custom stamps with your logo.
• Corner protectors for furniture (a lifesaver if you have kids!).

If you need more inspiration, don't miss my guide on what you can make with a resin 3D printer, where we explore loads more ideas.

The best flexible resins I've tested

Okay, after seeing everything you can make, you're probably asking yourself the million-dollar question: "Mr Resin, which one should I buy?" Totally fair. The number of options can be overwhelming.

But that's what I'm here for. I've put together a very personal selection, the result of countless hours of printing. I've tested many of them, and in our flexible resins catalogue you'll find the ones that, in my opinion, are the best.

Anycubic Flexible Tough Resin, my Swiss Army knife

If I had to pick just one resin to start out in this world, it would without a doubt be the Anycubic Flexible Tough Resin. Why? Because it's a true Swiss Army knife. What I love most about it is that it achieves an almost perfect balance between flexibility and hardness that makes it useful for almost anything. It sits around 85-90A Shore hardness.

I've put it to the test creating tires for RC cars and guards, and the result has always been a perfect ten! If you're into this brand, take a look at my guide on the best Anycubic resins for value for money.

Other top options you can't lose sight of

Although the Anycubic one is my favorite for beginners, the market is full of excellent alternatives. Brands like Elegoo, for example, are hot on its heels. To make things easier for you, here's a quick summary of other types of flexible resins and what I usually use them for:

• Lower hardness resins (Shore 75A-80A): If what you're looking for is to create very, very soft parts, like stamping seals or gaskets, these are your option. Printing them has its tricks, but the result is super elastic.
• Water-washable flexible resins: These are a marvel! You can forget about the hassle of isopropyl alcohol. If you value convenience, a water-washable resin will save you a lot of time and headaches.

Settings and post-processing: how to master flexible resin

Printing with flexible resin has its quirks. It's not exactly mission impossible, but it has its own rules. I say this from experience: almost all failures with this material come down to not finding the right settings. But I've got you covered!

The print parameters that change everything

The real secret lies in the slicer. Don't even think about using the same profiles as for your hard resins. Here I'll let you in on the three settings you need to take care of.

• Longer exposure times: Flexible resin needs more UV light to cure properly. As a starting point, I recommend increasing the exposure times by between 25% and 50% compared to a standard resin.
• Slower lift speed: This is the key one! Being elastic, the part sticks more firmly to the FEP. If the platform rises quickly, it creates a suction cup effect that tears it off. Reduce the speed to half of what you'd normally use.
• Thicker and denser supports: Forget those thin supports. Flexible parts weigh more and warp. You need thicker supports with greater density.

To get off on the right foot, I recommend checking out specific guides like the one on Anycubic resin parameters, which are an outstanding reference.

The art of post-processing so you don't ruin the flexibility

You're almost there! The part is printed, but the work isn't done yet. Poor curing can ruin everything.

My golden tip: cure the part in short rounds. If you over-cure it, the part will become stiff and the elasticity will be gone. And if you under-cure it, it will be sticky and weak.

This is the method that never fails me:

1. Cleaning: Give the piece a good wash as usual.
2. Support removal: Do it before the final curing! Now that the piece is still soft, it's much easier.
3. Interval curing: Put the piece in your curing station for 1 minute. Take it out, check how the flexibility is coming along and repeat in short intervals until the surface is no longer sticky. Patience is your best ally here!

The community trick: create your own semi-flexible resins

Now comes an open secret among those of us who have been at this for a while. Did you know you don't have to limit yourself to the properties that come in the bottle? You can formulate your own "semi-flexible" resin, and it's much simpler than you think.

Sometimes you're not looking for a piece that bends like rubber, but something that holds up better against impacts. Think about those miniatures with ultra-thin swords. The solution is to add an extra dose of "toughness" to your standard resin.

How does this alchemy work?

The idea has an undeniable logic: you mix a small amount of flexible resin (between 10% and 15%) with your standard resin. This small dose changes the structure of the material, making it less brittle.

My step-by-step method to get the mix right

So you're not going in blind, here's how I do it:

1. Precision first: Use a precision scale or syringes to measure the exact amounts. For example: 10g of flexible + 90g of standard.
2. Same brand, fewer problems: Try to mix resins from the same manufacturer (Anycubic with Anycubic, Elegoo with Elegoo, etc.). It's not mandatory, but it ensures better compatibility.
3. Shake well: Pour both resins into an empty, opaque bottle. Close it tightly and shake for a couple of minutes.
4. Let it breathe: Let the mixture rest for about 10-15 minutes so the bubbles disappear.
5. Adjust the exposure times: Watch out for this! Your new resin has different properties. You'll almost certainly need to increase the exposure times a little. Always run a calibration test.

This trick is amazing for giving your miniatures extra life. If you feel like trying it, take a look at our complete resin catalog to find the perfect combination. Time to experiment!

Frequently asked questions about flexible resin (FAQ)

Here are the answers to the most common questions you usually ask me about flexible resin. Straight questions, clear answers and to the point, just how we makers like it. Let's get to it!

Can I use flexible resin in any resin 3D printer?

Absolutely yes! Any LCD/MSLA resin 3D printer, like the well-known ones from Anycubic or Elegoo, can use it. Trust me, the secret isn't in the machine, but in fine-tuning the settings. What really makes the difference is adjusting the parameters in your slicer: exposure times, lift speeds... The key is the software, not the hardware!

Does flexible resin lose its properties over time?

Great question! Like almost all polymers, it is affected by the passage of time, especially UV light and heat. That's why it's vital not to overdo the curing. To keep your pieces flexible, I recommend storing them in a dark, cool place. In my experience, for normal use the durability is incredible and they'll last you years.

Is it harder to remove supports from flexible pieces?

If I'm being honest, it can be a bit more work. But, as always, I have a trick up my sleeve. Set your support tips a little thicker and, most importantly, remove them before the final curing. If they resist, submerge the piece in warm water (don't let it boil!) for a minute. This softens them just enough to come off on their own. Patience and skill!

Conclusion: Add flexibility to your projects!

And that's a wrap on the guide, maker! As you've seen, flexible resin for 3D printers is not just another material — it's a game changer that opens the doors to a universe of projects that were previously impossible. From functional parts that can take whatever you throw at them, to miniatures that survive accidental drops.

I've tried to share my best tricks and tips based on hours and hours of printing. Now it's your turn to grab the bottle, experiment, and take your creations to the next level. Don't be afraid to try mixing resins!

I hope this guide has been super useful to you. If you're hungry for more, head over to the store and take a look at all the resins I have for you. There's a world of possibilities waiting for you!