ABS-Like Resin: What It Is and What It's Used For | Definitive Guide

ABS-Like resin is a 3D printing material that mimics the properties of ABS plastic, offering superior impact resistance, durability, and slight flexibility compared to standard resins. In my experience, it's the perfect ally for parts that need to withstand real wear and tear without breaking at the first sign of stress.

In this guide, I'm going to share everything I've learned about it: what it is exactly, what I use it for, how to tell it apart from other resins, and most importantly, how to configure it to get the most out of it. Let's dive in!

What is ABS-Like resin and why do you need it?

ABS-Like resin is a photopolymer designed to mimic the toughness of Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS) plastic, offering a balance between hardness and flexibility. Unlike standard resins, which are brittle, ABS-Like can absorb impacts and deform slightly before breaking, making it ideal for functional parts.

Imagine that standard resin is like glass: very hard, yes, but brittle. One sharp knock and it shatters. ABS-Like resin, on the other hand, is like a technical plastic: it bends a little before it breaks. If you drop a part made with standard resin, chances are you'll have to print it again; if you drop one from our ABS-Like resin collection, there's a very good chance it'll survive intact. 😉

This quality, known as toughness, makes it the queen of functional prototyping. And what does that mean? It means you can print parts that don't just look great, but actually work and hold up to the use they were designed for.

Think about projects like:

• Press-fit parts: Brackets, clasps, or housings that you need to assemble and disassemble multiple times without the tabs snapping off.
• Mechanical components: Small gears, pulleys, or hinges for your electronics or robotics projects that need to withstand a certain amount of tension and movement.
• Durable figures and models: Models that will be handled, transported, or that you simply want to survive an accidental fall from the shelf.

I say this from experience: using a resin like the Anycubic ABS-Like 3.0 is a real game changer. It's the difference between being afraid to touch your creations and using them with complete confidence.

What are the differences between ABS-Like resin and other resins?

The main difference lies in the balance between hardness and impact resistance. While standard resin is very hard but brittle, ABS-Like is slightly less hard but far tougher, absorbing knocks and impacts. On the other hand, Tough or Flexible resins outperform ABS-Like in strength or elasticity, respectively.

I'm sure it's happened to you: you have several bottles of resin on the shelf and you're wondering when the perfect moment is to reach for that ABS-Like. It's one of the most common questions, and knowing where each material fits in is what really makes the difference. Let me break it down for you, straight to the point.

Standard Resin vs. ABS-Like

Imagine standard resin as glass. It's very hard and rigid, with a Shore D hardness of around 80-90D, which allows it to capture incredible detail. It's ideal for those display figures you won't be handling much. The problem? That hardness makes it brittle. One little knock and crack!

This is where ABS-Like shines. It sacrifices a tiny bit of that extreme hardness (usually ranging between 75-86D) to gain brutal toughness. It's able to flex slightly before breaking, absorbing the energy of an impact. Think of it as a resilient plastic, perfect for functional parts.

Tough Resin vs. ABS-Like

Alright, now things get serious. Tough or high-resistance resins are the next step up. These are pure engineering-grade materials, designed to offer impact and tensile resistance that surpasses ABS-Like.

In my experience, I use ABS-Like for casings or supports that need to hold up. But if I'm printing a part that's going to endure constant mechanical stress, like a functional hinge or a drone component, I go straight for a resin like the Anycubic Tough Ultra. There, reliability isn't an option — it's a requirement.

So you can see everything at a glance, I've put together a comparison table for you.

As you can see, it's not about finding the "best" resin, but the most suitable one for each job. If you want to dive deeper, I recommend taking a look at my complete guide on the different types of resins for 3D printers.

What exactly is ABS-Like resin used for?

ABS-Like resin is used to print parts that require durability and strength, such as functional prototypes, mechanical components (gears, hinges), press-fit assembly parts (casings, clips) and figures that need to withstand handling or drops without breaking. Its toughness makes it ideal for uses beyond simple display.

I've been there, and I can assure you there are projects where it is simply the best choice. Here I'll tell you where you're going to get the most out of it.

1. Functional prototypes and assembly parts

This is, without a doubt, its favorite playground. If you're designing something that needs to snap fit together, like a case for a Raspberry Pi or a box for an electronics project, tabs and clips are your biggest nightmare. With a standard resin, they snap. With ABS-Like, they don't.

Its slight flexibility is the key. It allows parts to "give" just enough during assembly without breaking, holding up through opening and closing them multiple times.

I'll tell you from experience: when I create prototypes that are going to pass through many hands or that I know I'll need to adjust, I reach for ABS-Like without a second thought. It saves me the frustration of watching a latch break the third time I try to snap it into place.

2. Mechanical parts and components under stress

Are you thinking about printing a gear for a small robot, a motor mount, or the hinge of a lid? All of these components suffer mechanical stress and wear. A standard resin, due to its rigidity, would erode or crack in no time.

ABS-Like resin, on the other hand, holds up much better against friction and moderate loads. Bear in mind, it's not a substitute for metal, but for low- to medium-load applications in robotics or home automation it's a marvel. If you're looking for more inspiration, take a look at what else you can do with a resin 3D printer.

3. Action figures and durable models

If your thing is miniatures for wargames or collectible figures, you know that a drop from the table can be fatal. A sword, a spear, or any other fine detail printed with standard resin is living on borrowed time.

With a resin like the Elegoo ABS-Like 3.0, those delicate parts absorb impact better. The result is figures that are much more "playable" and durable.

4. Parts that need mechanical post-processing

Here comes another one of its great advantages. If after printing you need to drill a hole or sand thoroughly, ABS-Like resin behaves very similarly to injection-molded plastic. It's far less likely to chip or crack under the pressure of a drill bit.

How to configure your 3D printer for ABS-Like resin?

To print with ABS-Like resin you need to slightly increase the exposure time per layer, typically between 15% and 25% more than with standard resin. A good starting point for a monochrome 3D printer is 2.5 to 4.0 seconds per layer, always fine-tuning with a calibration test.

Taking a few minutes to calibrate is the difference between a functional part and one that warps. ABS-Like resin tends to be a little denser, so it needs a touch more UV light. If you use 2 seconds per layer with a standard resin, for an ABS-Like you could start by trying 2.3 or 2.5 seconds.

A pro tip: temperature is your best friend. Try to keep it stable in the room, ideally above 20-25 °C. A little warmth makes the resin slightly more liquid, it flows better and helps everything bond perfectly.

To make things easy for you, I've put together a table with some parameters that will serve as a guide. Keep in mind that more modern resins, like the ABS-Like 3.0 HD, may require finer adjustments.

Recommended printing parameters for ABS-Like resin

Here's a guide with initial settings. Remember that this is a starting point — always run your own calibration test!

• Layer height: 0.05 mm (standard), 0.03 mm (high definition).
• Number of base layers: 4 - 6 layers.
• Base layer exposure: 25 - 35 seconds.
• Normal exposure: 2.5 - 4.0 seconds (for monochrome 3D printers).
• Lift speed: 60 - 180 mm/min.
• Lift distance: 7 - 10 mm.

With resins like the Anycubic ABS-Like 3.0 or the Elegoo ABS-Like 3.0, these values usually work like a charm. If you want to dive deeper, you can take a look at this guide on Anycubic resin parameters and their 3D printers.

How to post-process ABS-Like resin parts?

Proper post-processing is key to achieving strength. First, wash the part in 99% isopropyl alcohol (IPA) for 3-5 minutes. Then, after drying it completely, cure it under UV light for 2-5 minutes, rotating it to ensure even exposure. Excessive curing will make it brittle.

Taking the part off the 3D printer is just the beginning of the journey. If you skip this step or rush through it, you'll be wasting all of its potential.

1. Washing: your first battle against sticky resin

My secret weapon is high-purity isopropyl alcohol (IPA), ideally at 99%. In our alcohol and post-processing section we have exactly what you need. Submerge the part in IPA for around 3-5 minutes. But don't overdo it! Leaving it to soak for too long can start to soften the part.

2. UV curing: the delicate art of not overdoing it

With the part clean and completely dry, it's time for UV curing (hardening through ultraviolet light). This is where the real magic happens. But be careful — if you give it too long a UV sunbath, the part will become super rigid, but also brittle.

• Small parts or parts with lots of detail: 2 to 4 minutes of curing is usually enough.
• Larger or solid parts: May need between 5 and 8 minutes.

3. Professional finishing: the final touch

Once cured, you can sand it to smooth out support marks. And if you want to paint it, apply a coat of primer first. This prepares the surface and makes acrylic paints grip like there's no tomorrow.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about ABS-Like Resin

So you can dive into using this resin without hesitation, I've compiled the questions you ask me most. Here are my straightforward, no-nonsense answers.

What temperature can an ABS-Like resin part withstand?

Once cured, an ABS-Like resin part can typically withstand temperatures of up to 60-70 °C before it starts to deform. It is not ideal for environments with constant high temperatures, such as the inside of a car in direct sunlight.

Can I mix ABS-Like resin with other resins?

Yes, and it's a great trick! Mixing 20-30% ABS-Like resin with a standard resin significantly increases the strength of your parts without sacrificing much detail. I highly recommend giving it a try!

Is ABS-Like resin good for printing miniatures?

Absolutely yes, it's one of my favorites for wargame figures or any miniature that will be handled frequently. Its toughness protects thin parts like swords or antennas from breaking due to drops or impacts.

Is ABS-Like resin more toxic than standard resin?

No, ABS-Like resin is not inherently more toxic, but it must be handled with the same precautions as any UV resin. Always wear nitrile gloves and goggles, and work in a well-ventilated area.

How long does ABS-Like resin take to cure?

It requires slightly longer exposure time per layer, between 2.5 and 4.0 seconds on monochromatic 3D printers. For the final UV post-curing, 2 to 5 minutes is usually sufficient.

Conclusion: When should you use ABS-Like resin?

In summary, ABS-Like resin is your best option when durability matters more than extreme rigidity. It is the go-to choice for functional prototypes, low-stress mechanical parts, and figures that need to withstand "real life" use.

I've lost count of how many times an ABS-Like part has saved me from reprinting a prototype because of a broken clip. It's not the "best" resin for everything, but understanding its strengths will open up a whole new world of functional and durable projects for you. Give it a chance — you won't regret it!